Buggy's new rear 4 link

[petefj40]

After munting the rear control arm on the buggy last weekend I'm going for a 4 link setup. If anyone thinks there's a better stronger way to do things please post. I'm all ears.
It's got to be complete in just 12 days.

The first question I have is.
What's the best ball joint or heim joint to go for?
I would think one that's adjustable and has a grease point.

Here's a few pix of how things are at the moment.

[turoa]

Pete, Id seriously look at just building a new top a frame and making new lower links out of a stronger material. If you go down to edge performance on main south road you can get whats called an O'halliran joint (they are rebuildable swivelly joints. Cant remember if they come with a grease nipple but drill and tap a hole and you can screw one in). They should know what it is cause they have them on the shelf. Then build something similar to this



Its probably the best pic I have atm, but very easy to build, and very strong. For the upper end you can either use bushes, more ohalliran joints or heims. Id go the bushing route, they dont need to flew cause it they will only be moving in one plane

4links are great, but aframes work just as well and require less mounts, less time, less joints etetc

[petefj40]

Hmm. Thanks Turoa.
The "A frame" to the top of the diff I already have (as you know). But it's sloppy as hell and always needs attention.
Maybe keeping it the same but like you say build it stronger. I was already planning on getting the control arms made from thicker wall tubing. Now you got me thinking. Fark. lol But now is the time to be thinking hard about what to do.
I like the idea of no panard mount in the rear.

[hosehustler]

Hi Pete,
12 days isn't long to set up and build a 4link, here's a shot of mine, the tubes have been strengthened by the addition of flat steel on each link.
Std lux/prado bushes have been used, they don't flex as well as the joints Tu's has mentioned but easily available/replaceable and flex well enough
Good luck and if you want to come round for some ideas and a coffee you know where I live

[petefj40]

Cheers for that Tim!
More food for thought. Excellent.

[petefj40]

I like the setup in the rear of Ricks Jeep.

[rokhound]

I would be staying away from a frame set ups. They jsut don't have the inherent strength that you will achieve in a 4 link. And it is a fairly straight forward job to replace a link if the worst should happen.
My links are 5mm wall high tensile box section as this is much stronger than tube, and I reckon the bottom arms are a must in this at the least (top arms are not quite as important as it should not be subject to any vehicle loading on it.
12 days is just not enough time to do it properly, by the time you measure it all up, draw it out on paper (or excel) and do the math to get a sweet AS, IRC and all round decent setup. If you are planning on getting someone else to build it, go and drive one of their setups first, as I have seen some shocking results put out by those who are supposed to know what they are doing, and your favorite shop is no exception.
My first link setup was a classsic example of just throwing it together and hoping for the best. There was not another rig could touch it for articulation, but it couldn't be driven at over 50kph, and know ing what a rev head you are, that would never do.
I am guessing that the main thing you will be going for is a lower AS (anti squat) number as this will have it digging in and giving maximum traction off the line. A higher number will have it more inclined to wheel spin off the line (good when you are climbing etc).
I have a really good article here on building a 4 link here, if you want a copy, give me a call and I will copy it fopr you.

[petefj40]

I would be staying away from a frame set ups. They jsut don't have the inherent strength that you will achieve in a 4 link. And it is a fairly straight forward job to replace a link if the worst should happen.
My links are 5mm wall high tensile box section as this is much stronger than tube, and I reckon the bottom arms are a must in this at the least (top arms are not quite as important as it should not be subject to any vehicle loading on it.
12 days is just not enough time to do it properly, by the time you measure it all up, draw it out on paper (or excel) and do the math to get a sweet AS, IRC and all round decent setup. If you are planning on getting someone else to build it, go and drive one of their setups first, as I have seen some shocking results put out by those who are supposed to know what they are doing, and your favorite shop is no exception.
My first link setup was a classsic example of just throwing it together and hoping for the best. There was not another rig could touch it for articulation, but it couldn't be driven at over 50kph, and know ing what a rev head you are, that would never do.
I am guessing that the main thing you will be going for is a lower AS (anti squat) number as this will have it digging in and giving maximum traction off the line. A higher number will have it more inclined to wheel spin off the line (good when you are climbing etc).
I have a really good article here on building a 4 link here, if you want a copy, give me a call and I will copy it fopr you.

Cheers Grant.
You're still living at the same place? I might pop over and grab a copy. Thanks.
Now. Though the setup I had was sloppy where the a frame met the top of the diff head? For me and where I'm at, it did work fine. Yep, being a rev head that I am, I have driven the buggy doing things it wasn't built to do, such as, driving it at over 100 kph on the metal back roads. And it handles OK for what it is. And it's got the flex i need for what I'm doing. I can't really complain. I just want something that does the same but stronger. So I'm thinking of staying with the same configuration so it's just a matter of copying what I already have and building it stronger. No need to go back to drawings or anything like that.
You have to remember. This rig of mine is not far short of a backyard redneck style buggy. She's pretty rough in lots of areas. But it works and i love it like it is. So I feel what you're talking about would suit something like Craig Belame's buggy or something flash like that. I'm not there yet Grant.
I'll pop round and have a chat soon when you're free.

[rokhound]

We have told Fletchers to stick there BS rates and conditions etc right up their .........

SO, free almost anytime at the moment

I would look at replacing your lower arms with the higher tensile box section then if I was in your shoes. What type of bushes does it run currently? My new one has nolathanes at the chasiss end and heims at the axle end. I think Johnny Joints (or simiar) would be better but in your case probably not as crucial.

[kbjj]

Johnny joints are great. Being a urethane bushed ball joint, they have a bit of give (for those "harder than meant to" hits), are free in movement, and are rebuildable (the greasable pin option is best). I've slogged out two 5/8, three piece chromolly heims on my front panhard in the last year. The teflon liner works it's way out, then it rattles and hammers itself to death. I'm presently using a two piece one, and it seems to be doing the trick so far.

Pete, I think if your'e happy with the performance, use the same setup/geometry, just make it stronger. I know they use heims all over the racing scene, and seem to be lots of peoples choice, but I do like the idea of links, panhards etc having a bit of give, so bushes would be my choice over heims for you

[MNC]

...I would look at replacing your lower arms with the higher tensile box section then if I was in your shoes. What type of bushes does it run currently? My new one has nolathanes at the chasiss end and heims at the axle end. I think Johnny Joints (or simiar) would be better but in your case probably not as crucial.

I agree. If you've only got 12 days then just get heavier duty arms made up to suit your existing set up + a new shock and you are all go again.

[petefj40]

The new mounts ready for the Nissan bushes.



The new control arms not quite finished.



The old control arm.

[hosehustler]

looks good Pete,
Don't know about that last pic tho......a bent as arm on top of a Tube bender

[kbjj]

Nice... heaps stronger. Not being picky, but while your at this stage, run a weld all the way along the 'backbone'. Stronger again.

[flexy]

sweet buggys allgud ta go finished off the rear arms and built a nice wee gaurd for the ram steer, pete were back in the game

[petefj40]

looks good Pete,
Don't know about that last pic tho......a bent as arm on top of a Tube bender

I didn't think of that Tim. Does look a little odd.

[petefj40]

Nice... heaps stronger. Not being picky, but while your at this stage, run a weld all the way along the 'backbone'. Stronger again.

Ash (flexy) is doing the job at his work. I'll ask him.

[petefj40]

sweet buggys allgud ta go finished off the rear arms and built a nice wee gaurd for the ram steer, pete were back in the game

Awesome stuff Ash.
Did you manage to run a weld down the length of the control arm?

That protection for the steering ram was a bloddy good idea.

[petefj40]

This..



..should prove handy when doing this..





Cheers Ash. Good job.

[niblik]

the easier and my preferred option would be to not drive into the massive lump of middle earth in the first place... place wheel in centre of it instead...

looks like a nice bit of protection though.. sweet..

[petefj40]

the easier and my preferred option would be to not drive into the massive lump of middle earth in the first place... place wheel in centre of it instead...

looks like a nice bit of protection though.. sweet..

I thought I'd just drive straight over the farking thing nibs.

[petefj40]

Buggy is home now.



The recon'd shocks should be here this time next week. Both had bent shafts. Hopefully the caps aren't out of shape.

The rear bump stops are off. One's leaking. So I hope to get a couple on loan for the next two events on the 30th n 31st. Coz they won't be fixed in time.



So it should all go together the night before the 30th.

[lincooln]

looking good pete