Offroad-Express

Hey Jeep peoples,

Thinking of getting a Wrangler for my next toy, not sure what model, but around the 2000 shape (think its quite the same around that era). Wanting a hard top, manual also.

Just need to know if there are anything to look out for (rust in places or anything prone to breaking).

If someone else has already asked this, sorry and show me the thread

cheers and i look forward coming to the Jeep-Side!

pm xj ,,hes had a couple

shoe wrote this awhile back....

I have a 97 TJ Wrangler auto ragtop
It has left me stranded and walking twice.
My experience with it:-
They drink fuel, they will not do much better than 18l per 100km. The rag top is real bad as the shape of it is equivalent to towing a parachute.
To agrivate the outrageous fuel consumption they are real slow to full up with fuel. If you leave the engine running while you are refueling it will never get full.
They are way under geared in the final drive at about 3.07 to 1 which means the engine labours all the time further sucking fuel. Stock tire size is 28inch anything bigger like 31inch and it will suck even more fuel.
On any sort of a trip make sure you can get to a gas station at least evey 300km
The engines last forever.
The water pump will crap out at about 100K Ripco have them for about $100
The Radiator will also not last much more than 100k they have plastic ends which are crap
The front sway bar ball joints are wofull and will fall apart on your second or third 4WD trip
The front brake caliper pistons are ceramic and will bind up sooner or later overheating the brakes. a Good fix is steel pistons avaliable from most brake shops.
The three speed auto is a dog of a slush box. Its a decendent of the old mopar 770 box from the 60s. Its Ok but it clunks and does not kick down very well. I grenaded mine with water in it as the breather is poorly located low in the bell housing. Its OK once you extend with a breather hose up higher
I have been sucked in to installing an electronic chip and a throttle body spacer to get more power and less fuel consumption, however both are a waste of money.
The exhaust manifold is gauarteed to crack and leak at anytime.

Apart from the above a TJ is a great vechile and I will drive mine for ever.

You go for it,you will NOT regret it,i listened to all the woeful comments for years.I checked around asked on here [ thanks yeti,always helpful ] So far [ touch wood ..lol.. ] this has been the cheapest 4x4 to run EXCLUDING fuel o do they love fuel but i knew this before buying.The only things that have crapped out so far are front sway bar [ i threw it away seems to have made little difference ] and my ignition crapped out and that's it They fixed the manifold problem on the 2002 model [ which mine is ].I Have done a few mod's to mine but not a lot..decent suspension 2'' lift, 265 tyres,winch,snorkel and a few other bits and pieces..still haven't put in a locker..This is the first 4x4 that i haven't highly modified as have other commitments at moment BUT I'm still getting to all my favourite places with ease..the poor thing does get thrashed...lol..man these things are good off road..i only have one regret and that is i did not buy one years ago...THE GUYS ON HERE are great for advice....off now to cannan to play in the snow [Takaka hill ] ALSO mine is a auto which seems fine,quite like it really,the comments above are true though ...lol..

Wow cheers guys,

Looks like the main thing is fuel
Not too fussed about that, as i expected the fuel to be through the roof.

Im going to make sure i get a hardtop, and definatly a manual too (an auto only if its been looked after)

hopefully going to get one under 100,000km's so will look out for those things you guys pointed out, am fairly switched on with cars so will give them a good once over before i buy anything.

Basic mods i want to do first are: Lift, Tyres, Winch (last) and Snorkel. Maybe an exhaust further down the track etc. Just want it to have some fun and go places most other 4wds cant. It will still be my daily driver

Cant wait to begin posting in the Jeep section

Good on you ..Back From Canaan,bloody amazing snow every where..mines a hard top,definitely worth having i reckon and personally wouldn't worry if you got an auto if you found something you liked that was tidy...I was like you and only wanted a manual but my Wrangler was that tidy and a good deal [ it was a ladies shopping cart ..lol.. ] that i bit the bullet and bought it with auto,know regrets what so ever so far ..but in saying that a manual would also be great ..you will love it..

what furnace said.

look, theres plusses and minuses for everything. I wouldnt have an auto one again (theyre horrid with 33s and no diff change whereas you can get by with the 3.07 ratio and the manual)

ANY lift and id be putting in the SYE and D/C driveshaft... 'cause youll want to go higher.

DONT buy the half arsed lift kits, get them with 8 adjustable arms etc etc etc, spend the extra and save the heartack

Ditch the stock extractors, fukers WILL crack

The radiators get some bad press, plastic top tank and all, but I never had an issue on my two with the radiators at all, so cant really comment on the issues there.

Hard top v soft top... again theres pros and cons for each.... I just bought the 3 options of hard soft and bikini (gee theres some hidden meaning there aint there)

Floorpan should be the only place its ever likely to rust, if at all.

People will bitch on about the front diffs and axles.... truth is that Ive only ever seen axles and diffs go west when having lockers in and engaged. Left axle UJ will explode hard locked and diff locked in, diff will shear teeth if it bounces and locker is in. Simple solutions 1) extend the limiting bolt out on the yoke to reduce lock 2) dont put a front locker in. (another option would just be to drive it nice, but thats not such a simple solution as we all know it aint gunna happen)

Theyre a great little truck... go out and have fun.

Mark

Perfect,

Just what i want to hear. Im already set on a hard top. And want one that is stock standard so i can do the mods myself properly.

Will definatly give the autos a look if its a goodie

I think lockers are further down the track when I get more hardcore into it as ill need something else for my daily when this thing takes over

Appreciate your help guys, will keep you updated when i get one

Fraser

the autos dont like water,, may pay to read this write up


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj-3- ... up-361704/

good luck dude

yeti wrote:the autos dont like water,, may pay to read this write up


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj-3- ... up-361704/

good luck dude

LOL....thats another thing i haven't done..the air breather thing..i will get there ..lol..i have had the water up to windscreen though on more than one occasion,know problem's so far,checked auto oil soon as got through good as [ Greenstone river West Coast,i have a batch by the Greenstone cemetery ] Jeeps also float ...lol...

couple of k for a new one me thinks,,,,, they do float for a bit then sink , well xjs do

see sig pic.......going down

canaan this afternoon

[quote="furnace"] [ Greenstone river West Coast,i have a batch by the Greenstone cemetery ] /quote]


mmmm, trip coming up

yeti wrote:

furnace wrote: [ Greenstone river West Coast,i have a batch by the Greenstone cemetery ] /quote]


mmmm, trip coming up

I reckon

furnace wrote:canaan this afternoon

nice jeep, tidy winch setup!

Possibly a dumb question but....

Do most wranglers have auto front hubs?

This one im looking at, i cant see manual hubs.. unless they are under the wheel cap?

cheers,

auto...........well my mates two are......

yeti wrote:auto...........well my mates two are......

Sweet cheers! Got a Wrangler lined up.... watch this space

TJs don't have any free wheeling hubs from the factory, they are connected all the time.

There is a kit to put FWH on but it needs a different type of wheel bearing and a change of stud pattern.

Oh true...

i was going to investigate getting manual hubs...

We'll see how they go first when i get it

"TJs don't have any free wheeling hubs from the factory, they are connected all the time.
There is a kit to put FWH on but it needs a different type of wheel bearing and a change of stud pattern"


The kit you are talking about used to be made by “Warn” not sure who does it now, as I believe this part was sold off. Basically you are retro fitting early Dana 44 style axles and hubs to the Dana 30, the hubs give you a replaceable wheel bearing rather than a unit bearing. The rear is also a nice bit of kit; and has the added benefit of changing the axle into a “full floater”
you are right about the wheel stud pattern, it changes from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5, on the front you use earlier CJ rotors and the STD 30 calliper, I used later model grand Cherokee rotors and wildwood 4 pot callipers on the rear.

Bernie.

http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/index.p ... th=128_129


was some on tm awhile ago

I just got a email about Yukon Spin free kits which are avaialable in the original stud pattern.

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... r_and_Axle

You would have to be keen, they cost $1421 US, even with 2 new wheel bearings that's a lot of cash.

Hmm quite alot, dont think ill be making my wrangler that hardcore to start with!

Just had an AA check on my new wrangler and they assessor pointed out that it has raised suspension and it has a D-select links (pins?) to release the from sway bar. (think thats what he said)

I know releasing the sway bar will give me more flex but I assume this is all ok and that i wont need a cert for it?

He didnt say how much the lift was, but looks only 2"

Cheers

swaybar disconnection are a common upgrade and give good flex! With a 50mm lift you will be able to run 33s

Mr Zuk wrote:swaybar disconnection are a common upgrade and give good flex! With a 50mm lift you will be able to run 33s

Haha thought so!

Just checked with the car-yard and it already has 33" wrangler MTRs on it will post some pics when i get it this Saturday

just a 50mm lift will be able to fit 33's??? Well yeah, theyll fit, but the slightest bit of uptravel and youll be rubbing guards something horrid. Theyll fit, but it will be a show pony fit, not a practical fit.

Heres one with 2 inch lift and 1 inch body lift on 33's:


And mate, (i dont wanna piss on your parade, I appreciate your keen-ness and all) but IF its an auto, on 33s and the stock diffs are in, its going to be one sluggish bitch. Youll be crawling the walls after the honeymoon period is over wanting some 4.10 or 4.56 diffs to get some oomph out of it. You'll also be sick of watching your fuel guage head to E if youre spending a heap of time in city type driving.

Dont suppose theres any links to this wagon in the car yards website?

Here's a crap pic he sent to me:

If my sense of scale is right, thems look like 32s.... eyeometer could be crook though. Distances 'tween guards and tyre dont look right to be a 2 inch and 33s