Offroad-Express

Hi All,

My beloved Series 2a Land Rover chassis is a bit worse for wear, there are other minor things broken like exhaust but I'm not worried about.

Tried contacting the chassis manufactures in England for a replacement unit but either they've stop making them or no reply ...

Tried finding a replacement 2nd hand chassis but couldn't find any 6 cylinder late 2a's, actually, any 6 cylinder chassis period.

Front half under cab looks good, solid paint. Half under deck looks okay with some peeling off paint and the odd rust bubble but tail end after rear springs is probably a write off, looks flaky.

Is it easy to repair/replace this chassis so she can once again be road worthy?
Which places in Chch are qualified to repair the series chassis?
Is there any place in NZ which will build a new one?

Thank you.

I think your best bet in Chch will be to talk to Alistair at Summit 4WD on 03 982 1763... he does a lot with LandRovers and Range Rovers... It would be cool to think they still made those old chassis, but I'm thinking you won't find one.

As for 6-cyl... did they make one? I thought they were all aftermarket retro-fitted Holden motors (or Nissan LD28s)...

Seems to me like you might be looking for a new 'old' chassis Good luck and don't forget to post pics of what you're doing to it

Steve

series 2a or 3 pretty much the same if I recall correctly. I cut mine in half and threw it away end of last year(no rust either) as well as a range rover chassis. I'm not to sure where you get them now days as the truck wrecker on blenham road is gone now. could ask hoskins landrover spares on hazeldein road in syndham they might know of one around.

Mike

If its rusted behind the rear spring mounts couldn't you just shorten the end of it?

SupraLux wrote:As for 6-cyl... did they make one? I thought they were all aftermarket retro-fitted Holden motors (or Nissan LD28s)...

Original ownership papers state it came with a 2.6l motor which is the 6 cylinder version. It has been retro fitted with a 2.25l before my ownership which would explain why the engine is 20cm or so short of the radiator.
Have entered the chassis number into those websites and they also state it is a 6 cylinder chassis.

I'll follow up sometime with those two companies and also noticed truck spares was gone, they had a sea of LR's.

You can get all sorts of replacement parts for the series chassis



Can get prices if you like, but Im sure the local landy guys can do that for you.
You could always go the whole hog and get series chassis with all the coil susp mounts done and galvinised, so all you do is swap your body on and roll under some rangie running gear. Of course you pay top dollar

These guys (and quite a few others) do the coil chassis's for series landys. but check the prices. $1090 POUNDS for a chassis

http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/88coil.asp

lilpigzuk wrote:$1090 POUNDS for a chassis

I still think that a couple of grinding discs and some time and maybe a couple of cans of paint would be cheaper

I'd retire the beloved 2a to the back padock and buy a japanese 4x4.

My first 4wd 20 years ago was a landrover and after replacing 2/3 of the chassis, gearbox, 2x diffs, 1x axle housing, 1x drive shaft, 1x front axle, clutch, front leaf springs, brake shoes, lines and drums, battery, both door frames and god knows what else I found a keen enthuiest to take it off my hands for parts (motor was too tired)! Had cruisers ever since and other than replaceing them every 5 years when the bodys expire I wouldn't have spent half of what I spent on maintenence on that landrover in 1 year than I have in 20 years of cruisers.

Funny that........ Im a Suzuki nut (and closet Landy nut), Rate the zuk as the best 4x4xfar However..... My father has had the same 1957 Series 1 since 1978 (sold it and bought it back in a 5 year period). I learnt to drive in it, Had my first roll in it (I was 4 yrs old half way through thompsons track on the katikati side - out about 1am - 1981) Did my first trial comp in it when I was 13 (1989ish) Has been to hell and back and the only time it broke (3 times) was me being an idiot - 2 lots of spider gears and one axle, Dad STILL hasnt broken any driveline components in 26 years of off road driving. Granted he isnt the most aggresive driver but it does run a 186 holden and 7.50 x 16 SATs
Breakages and rust happen to driver error and lack of maintenance - both of my short falls However Dads landy is still regoes and warrented and came out with 3 zuks the other weekend and held its own.

after replacing 2/3 of the chassis, gearbox, 2x diffs, 1x axle housing, 1x drive shaft, 1x front axle, clutch, front leaf springs, brake shoes, lines and drums, battery

You cant be blaming all that on Land Rover.......

after replacing 2/3 of the chassis, gearbox, 2x diffs, 1x axle housing, 1x drive shaft, 1x front axle, clutch, front leaf springs, brake shoes, lines and drums, battery

lilpigzuk wrote:You cant be blaming all that on Land Rover.......

After 20 years I'm still looking for someone to blame!! :scratch:

lilpigzuk wrote:These guys (and quite a few others) do the coil chassis's for series landys. but check the prices...

The 1000-1200 pounds ($3700) for a brand new galv 109 chassis is sharp, but it's the extra $10k or so for shipping, insurance, GST (on purchase & frieght!) plus the various other custom import fees which makes it unaffordable.

Sadam_Husain wrote:I'd retire the beloved 2a to the back padock and buy a japanese 4x4.

Tested that theory but the 2a out performed the japanese 4x4 hands down on a couple basic handling tests.

mroffroader wrote:I still think that a couple of grinding discs and some time and maybe a couple of cans of paint would be cheaper

Thinking the same too. If I'm lazy and pay a garage, looks like for $1000 (unseen estimate but based upon another recent job) could get the chassis repaired. DIY will be even less but I can't weld

Flyingpony wrote: DIY will be even less but I can't weld

Find sombody that can weld and make a decent koha to their beer fridge and you'll be up and running again in no time

I reckon you should invest in a MIG welder, study some "How To" tips on the internet and give it a crack yourself. MIG welding is a piece of cake, one of the reasons it is popular in production environments, almost anyone can weld with a MIG once it is set-up correctly. Better still, do one of those evening welding courses held at most polytechnics. It will be a darn sight cheaper than buying a complete chassis or repair patches out of the UK. Best of all you will have learned a new and valuable skill, get the fun and satisfaction out of doing it yourself and you can charge your mates or neighbours for the little welding jobs they will want you to do for them (helps pay for the welder too ).
I made my own rear crossmember.....





It was needed, the rear member as it was....

You've done a magic job with that rear member

Niblik has a 2a LWB soft top parked up at home i dont know what sort of condition the chassis is but i will let him know you are looking. He may be keen to sell the whole thing as he is currently building up his 40 series cruiser.

H2OLOVA wrote:You've done a magic job with that rear member

Niblik has a 2a LWB soft top parked up at home i dont know what sort of condition the chassis is but i will let him know you are looking. He may be keen to sell the whole thing as he is currently building up his 40 series cruiser.

am keen to be rid of my much loved s2a.. :'-( bitter sweet..

let me know if ya interested and want to view sometime...