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Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:32 pm
by 3rnzir
OK,a stock standard GQ has rubber body mounts that have a 40mm spacer in between the rubbers.So,a 50mm body lift over standard,would require a block/spacer cut to 90mm.With the rubber mounts included.Is this right?
Cheerz..
mounts
Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:10 pm
by nuts
wld actually b 90 mm plus the width of rubbers by my recconing
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:23 am
by doddzee
Not quite sure what you are saying, Leave the factory rubber in there and just chuck in a 40mm nylon/alloy spacer ontop.
body lift
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:18 pm
by nuts
i wrk on heavy machinary including trucks we do allot of packing , lifting and reinforse suspention as we break hheaps on 6 wheelers. u sed u want to increase by 50 mm above the existing 40 mm so u need the 90 mm spacers and the existing rubbers if they r ok otherwise replase the rubbers if too worn hope that makes it clearer and coz u lifting use stronger hightensile bolts
lift
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:22 pm
by nuts
my truck runs rubbers top and bottom to stop wear on parts a few guys i know use neopream rubbers instead of standerd ones if thats any help
Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:07 pm
by 3rnzir
I may be wrong(1st time ever mind you),but,on a standard GQ,is there no puck/spacer in between the rubber body mounts?If not,would it pay to renew the rubber mounts?And obviously insert the 40-50mm puck/spacer.That photo of yours` Doddzee,that is a genuine 40mm lift?Looks like older rubber mounts.Guess that`s OK then.If rubber is still in good knick. Rubber must have a given lifespan though?Time/Km wise...
Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:03 am
by doddzee
Yip thats a 40mm lift, 40mm standard rubber packer + 40mm lift block. My rubbers looked in good nick and the it hadnt done a huge ammount of ks so i didnt buy new ones.
Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 3:33 pm
by DieselBoy
Thats all there is to it.
You remove the front seats and pull up the carpet as much as you need to get to the body mount bolts under the rubber gromets.
I popped the radiator grill forward to make it easier to get the front two out.
Remove all the body mount bolts, release the pinch bolt on the splined section of the steering rod and drop the bottom of the radiator shroud off.
Jack it up front first untill you can slip the front two spacers in, then move to the rear.
Jack that end up and slip the rear two spacers in, and then the other four in the middle of the truck.
You don't remove anything from anywhere, just put the spacers ontop of the rubbers that are there. If you have 40mm blocks, that will lift it 40mm over the origional height, same with any other size. See dodzees pic.
Tighten up the bolts, put the interior back together, test the leavers to make sure you can get all the gears, notch the gear leaver cover plate if required and your done.
Simple.
The one thing that had me worried was that the origional bodymount bolt size was 10mm. Everyone was telling me to get 12mm bolts. The bodymounts have enough room for 12mm bolts to go through. The two factory rear bolts are 12mm. The captive nuts on these are a bitch
Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:04 pm
by doddzee
Found this on annother site, might help aswell
35 to 40mm is a sensible lift.
I just prefer Ally but steel is ok. I havnt used nylon. If its hard it should be ok. Run a 12 to 13 mm hole thru the middle. The mounts are 70mm. So min is this size . 80 is better.
Under door mounts will need a slight chamfer on inner top edge if using larger than 72 as floor mount curves slightly. Check when fitting.
Bolts should be proportionately shorter than listed below. Rear two need to be longer by about 25/30,mm to allow for captive nut size.
Remove carpets, seatbelt bottom bolts.Bottom clip on plastic bit on fan cowling.
Undo all bottom nuts and two rear bolts. (use heat inside floor to break the loctite ion these two) You can drill these captive nuts out to allow the use of longer thru bolts from the top the same as all the others. I sometimes have had to cut floor here with tin snips to get to nuts, then just screw an ally plate over hole.
Jack up truck body with bits of wood on trolley jacks front and rear until body comes clear of mounts. Check every where for binding., fuel hoses etc.
Keep lifting until new spacers can be slid in, using a bit of grease to reduce corrosion later, take care of fingers.
When istalling a body lift check the following:
1. Steering slip joint to shaft, slide down a bit to relieve stress
2. Brake coiled pipe between body and chassis (under master cyl) open them up
3. Cable loom (under passenger seat) to chassis
4. Clutch flexible pipe from gearbox to body, bend down body bracket
5. Remove small shroud extension from bottom of radiator.
6. Replace fuel feed and return hoses, body to fuel pump, with longer ones - esp on diesel.
7. Check air con hoses from pump up to body isnt snagging.
8. Low range lever will need mod to it and surrounding area, more so on GQ1s.
9. Gearlever aperture likewise for 2nd, 4th and rev.
10. etc, etc,
To make a body lift you need for a Lwb 10 x approx 70mm diam by 50mm long aluminium or steel spacers with a 13mm hole in the middle. Plus 10 of 150 x 12mm bolts, washers and nyloc nuts.
Follow the above and common sense. Its NOT a hard job.
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 7:44 am
by 3rnzir
Sorry about the silly question.But,I had just read from a dude on an ozy forum going on about the packer,prior to me starting this topic..The rubbers must be the 40mm he was on about.IE as in standard height.Whats a new set of those genuine rubber mounts worth?Done plenty of klicks.Bound to be due for replacement any way..
Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2006 7:21 pm
by DieselBoy
$600 i think
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:37 pm
by gary_in_nz
got a bit of quiet time in the workshop this week, so gona jump on the lathe and machine up some spacers, (50mm) just wondering what the best diametre to machine these to is?? also reading that above instruction, do the rear bolts have to be 170mm long as i have read every where else that the body lift requires m12 x 150mm bolts?? last but not least, how many are there?? 10 i heard somewhere?? cheers
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:29 pm
by doddzee
gary_in_nz wrote:got a bit of quiet time in the workshop this week, so gona jump on the lathe and machine up some spacers, (50mm) just wondering what the best diametre to machine these to is?? also reading that above instruction, do the rear bolts have to be 170mm long as i have read every where else that the body lift requires m12 x 150mm bolts?? last but not least, how many are there?? 10 i heard somewhere?? cheers
Make them the same diameter as your existing rubber mounts 80mm i think. Dont remove these rubber mounts just add to them. There are 8 mounts on a SWB and 10 on a LWB. The rear ones can be a bastard to remove so get some crc on the nuts a couple of days before you go to pull it apart. Sorry cant remember the lenght of the bolts required.
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:39 pm
by BEAUTGQ
i did a 40mm body lift and used m12 x 150 bolts talked to cert guy he said to use grade 8 high tensile bolts and nylocs . these were ample and would be perfect for 50mm lift. its a piece of cake took bout an hour and a ahalf. dont even need to remove seats in a swb. gear lever works fine just gota sort 4wd lever. get 35's and cert.
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 6:48 pm
by gary_in_nz
sounds good, i have done the gearbox cross member spacer plate thing (eliminate some drive line vibration with my spring lift(50mm)) so will need to check my gear shifter and transfer shifters out.
Another thing I was wondering was how do i go about adjusting the speedo so it is correct with 33'/35' tyres, because that will probably be what i will get it certified with??
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 11:12 pm
by safaripete
have just finished my bodylift on my LWB gq 50mm
not a nice tale to tell the rear bolts are an absolute C@^T to do i ended up cutting the floor and cutting the nut off!!!!!!
other than that it wasnt too bad to do i used M12x140 bolts all round
took me around 4hrs start to finish so not too bad
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:19 am
by gary_in_nz
any chance of someone doing a quick drawing as to the locations, and a how to get to the bolts etc... for a swb??
wanting to do my lift this weekend, since will have some time on my hands
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:57 am
by worthog
Gary
I have used a Speedo reduction box to correct my speedo reading, its a small unit you unscrew the speedo cable, screw this unit into that hole and then screw the cable into the back of the reduction box.
Not exactly sure of the compamys name, but Taylors seems to ring a bell, they are in Auckland and Sam Parker or Ashley Lucas probably can help you or maybe some dude in Auckland. They have two small gears inside that they calculate there size depending on what reduction you want.
If you get stuck PM me and I will try and dig out their contact details
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 12:02 pm
by darinz
The speedo is very easy in a Nissan. It is electronic so it can be calibrated without the need to change gearing etc like Toyotas etc. I dropped mine of at auto sparky and they just corrected the signal. $90 and 100% accurate, calibrated speedo with 35 Simex. All they do is time it over a km, work out how far out, then adjust the number of pulses per second to correct the signal. Very very easy to do (if you have the right gear and know what you are doing)
GQ body lift is really easy.
8 bolts to be replaced. For a 50mm lift you will need 8 x spacers about 75mm daimeter. If bigger than 75mm you need to file the edge of the middle body mounts. And you need 8 x 150mm 12mm ht botls with lock nuts.
The rear bolts are the hardest due to the captive nuts most likely becoming uncaptive nuts. So you then have to cut the hole in the floor bigger to get at them.
You will need to lift the carpets to get at the bolts in side. There is a bolt by the driver and passenger feet and also one just behind the seats. If you take the door sill trim off you should be able to lift the carpet enough to get at these bolts.
The get at the front bolts you'll need to remove the grill.
The best way is to remove the 6 front mount bolts. You can then jack the body up with it still attached at the rear. Fit the front mounts then remove the rear and fit the other 6 mounts.
You will then need to sort out the lowrange lever as it most likely will hit the floor and not go into low 4x4. If you are careful you can cut the floor to allow room but still get the rubber boot back on and keep it water proof.
Also, don't forget to remove the lower part of the radiator shroud before you lift the body of it will hit the fan.
Not much else to worry about.
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 5:14 pm
by 3VILC
Yup relatively easy job..and a forklift takes the hard work out of it
Did mine a couple of weeks back. I can definately agree those rear 2 are an absolute pr*ck..1st one came out no problem at all..2nd one no dice..not a hope in hell of moving it. I found if you cut the hole towards the inside of the boot and push it own you can JUST get i think it was a 19mm box spanner on it. Find some way of holding the spanner tight and your home free
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 6:57 pm
by worthog
Darin, my speedo is cable operated, not electronic, mine you it is a 1997 model
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 7:29 pm
by tpft
on rear bolts, the captive nuts are just held by loctite even a small amount of heat, i used paint strip gun ,will nuke the loctite, then they un-do peice of cake .
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 7:35 pm
by gary_in_nz
tpft wrote:on rear bolts, the captive nuts are just held by loctite even a small amount of heat, i used paint strip gun ,will nuke the loctite, then they un-do peice of cake .
Hey, thanks for that tip, worked well, got my 50mm lift blocks in today, after a beer or 2 and some real choice words as dust fell in my eyes, but all good. Had to take quite a bit out around the gear sticks from the cowling there.
The worst part though was once i removed the seats and carpet in the passengers foot well was finding quite a bit of rust
lucky its only the top skin so will be having a go at that tomorrow,
only things i can recommend is that you have 4x 80mm diametre and 4x 75mm for the 4 mounts under the front seats, but apart from that good as.
cheers for all the info!!
Re: Need to get this body lift info down pat.
Posted: Sat May 31, 2008 8:38 pm
by safaripete
gary_in_nz wrote:tpft wrote:on rear bolts, the captive nuts are just held by loctite even a small amount of heat, i used paint strip gun ,will nuke the loctite, then they un-do peice of cake .
Hey, thanks for that tip, worked well, got my 50mm lift blocks in today, after a beer or 2 and some real choice words as dust fell in my eyes, but all good. Had to take quite a bit out around the gear sticks from the cowling there.
The worst part though was once i removed the seats and carpet in the passengers foot well was finding quite a bit of rust
lucky its only the top skin so will be having a go at that tomorrow,
only things i can recommend is that you have 4x 80mm diametre and 4x 75mm for the 4 mounts under the front seats, but apart from that good as.
cheers for all the info!!
yeah i found the same with the rust couple on nice holes now i know where the water getting in
i just cut the rear captive nuts out so i could use same length bolts in the rear