Offroad-Express

Sorry this is boring if it hasn't happened to you! But if like me and like to tinker - but definately no mechanic this may help someone.

Had issues with my 96 PA Challenger not going into 2H correctly, after having a bit of mud splashed about the place. The 2 green lights for the front wheels carries on flashing. But finally got my issue sorted just by cleaning and checking electrics and vaccumm, and watching movment of the actuator shaft, and is working as per factory now.

There is heaps of info on this and flashy lights on the web, which was really helpful, (http://4wd.blogeasy.com/ is one, and there are heaps of other forums with diagrams to look at) but if a clean around the yellow/blue solenoids doesn't work, it can mean it's time to start spending money on new solenoids or sensors which are in the $100's of dollars.

Here my take on the issue, which wasn't mentioned in the sites I looked at.

If it happens again, and things look like they will need replacing. i.e. $$$$$,
I will just fit free wheeling hubs, crimp the yellow marked 2wd vaccum hose. And leave the front diff engaged in 4wd the default position (Yet will not be turning when hubs unlocked and transfer case in 2H)

What do the Mitzi gurus reckon of this plan??
I should have:
2H - Hubs Disengaged (Less moving parts than factory?)
4H - Hubs engaged (still be able to use 4h on road)
4HLc - Hubs engaged
4LLc - Hubs engaged

Only thought about hubs, since Waypa and Coxsy mentioned they are a good idea to fit anyway. (One day it may look like yours Wayne!)

One thing I did notice on a couple of sites, that it would be ok, to keep driving in 2H, even thought the 4H (front wheel lights) are still flashing. With some mentioning they had been driving like this for a couple of years.

My take is, yup, won't do any damage, BUT the the front wheels are still driving the front axles and with the actuator shaft engaged in the front diff, the front drive shaft is still turning as well. So alot more moving parts than nessesary, more fuel use, wear etc etc.

someone on here (i think - probably njv6) posted a picture of a bracket made to lock the front diff in gear constantly. I may be wrong on this and it may have been on pajeroclub.com.au
add a set of AVM freewheeling hubs so you can 'kick the front out of gear' and you might be onto a winner.
downside of freewheeling hubs - can't shift into 4wd on the fly unless hubs are in (no biggy).


upsides - less drag, as noted by yourself, whilst over riding potential vaccuum system failure.
2wd lo!

Chance are you won't need to replace a sensor, by far the biggest thing is the yellow and blue dot air solinoids, but they are the same as any other solinoid so cheap to fix.

I didn't like driving with the front lights flashing as it was annoying. with mine, it was the actuator on the front diff finally got that much gunk in it it siezed up. Its a great system when working fine.

mike77 wrote:I will just fit free wheeling hubs, crimp the yellow marked 2wd vaccum hose. And leave the front diff engaged in 4wd the default position (Yet will not be turning when hubs unlocked and transfer case in 2H)

You won't need to crimp the yellow one as the default position is engaged with a big spring. Thats why when mine failed to pull it back into 2wd, i just swapped vacuum lines over under the bonnet and the lights stopped. So when everyone else stopped to put their hubs in, i popped the bonnet to swap air lines over!

I would only bother with free wheel hubs if you have lifted the vehicle quite a lot as it will save your cv boots. You won't notice any fuel consumption difference.

2Low, sounds handy towing the (next) boat.

Will leave it for now as everything is back to normal, just not sure if I would spend $200 for new solenoids, (and maybe something else in the system goes wayward) or a little more and have the hubs.

Cheers for your input.

Yes 2Low is good for that, backing trailers etc, makes it a bit easier on the clutch.