Offroad-Express

OK so I've spent the last week or so trying to sort the best way to get 33's under a 93 KNZ130 manual surf properly and yes I've used the search function and google and other forums lol.But nothing seems to give me the right answers I'm after

Can someone please give me the run down on the best way to do it. In particular someone with or had the same vehicle and same size tyres (33x12.5x15 bighorns) and what size rims & offset they used. Thanks

should be able to squueze 33's under nicely on a 130 chassis with 2 inch body lift and 2 inch spring lift in back and wind torsion bars up a wee bit in front to match

i had this setup in my old surf and the tyres still rubbed under full lock while flexing (in the rear of front wheel well) but was fine, cant remember what the offset was tho

sambo wrote:should be able to squueze 33's under nicely on a 130 chassis with 2 inch body lift and 2 inch spring lift in back and wind torsion bars up a wee bit in front to match

i had this setup in my old surf and the tyres still rubbed under full lock while flexing (in the rear of front wheel well) but was fine, cant remember what the offset was tho

Cheers sambo, yea I'm kinda hoping to get it right so nothing rubs at all...is there a way to do this or is it just a fact of life for this mod?

there are ways to get extra height in the front such as ball joint spacers,they give minimal lift depending on how much work you put into them but at the end of the day it comes down to weather your happy to spend more to get rid of the problem or just put up with it.my truck is a yn130 so same chassis.its currently got 25mm ball joint spacers in it but will be pulling them out to do a sas soon so will be up for sale

muddyhilux wrote:there are ways to get extra height in the front such as ball joint spacers,they give minimal lift depending on how much work you put into them but at the end of the day it comes down to weather your happy to spend more to get rid of the problem or just put up with it.my truck is a yn130 so same chassis.its currently got 25mm ball joint spacers in it but will be pulling them out to do a sas soon so will be up for sale

So your using the ball joint spacers instead of winding up your torsion bars yea? I've been reading that doing up your torsion bars ain't really the best for them and can lead to further problems?

i did a combination of both.after the spacers were fitted i also fitted spacers to the rear diff mounts to correct the angle of the cvs,then wound torsions up slightly but that's to level with the back.weather the torsions are wound up or not the travel will still go up to the bump stop

like i say its all coming out.is this for a road going vehicle?on mine after i fitted the ball joint spacers on the lhs i could no longer get the alignment back to factory levels so i then welded a plat to the top of a arm to push mounting bolts out towards the tip of the arm.back when i did it this was ok.now the plate would need xrays to check it all out but again its doable or again you could be happy to have the lift but alignment slightly out

on my ln130 i had 33s on a 2 inch sus lift with only rubbing at full lock now on 2 body ive got no rubbing at all

wheel offset and width plays as big part as well

I run 33s with 2 inch body lift only , my front a-arms are essentially flat .have a 1inch lift spring it the back so I can load it up with gear and it's sits flat.

get slight scrubbing at lock / full compression . Most has been fixxed with a BFH to the firewall lip.
I'm also running wide offset -44 15x8 rims.

wicked guys thanks so much for the info

@UBZ where did you score the -44 offset rims? can't seem to find any...


@muddyhilux..yea it will used as road going vehicle as well. Yea I can fully see your point of "how much your willing to put up with or spend more money fixing things" cheers

all good mate.and i think you'll find Chris's rims were custom made ie had the centres flipped or something similar.i don't think you can buy 15x8 -44 off the shelf anywhere

muddyhilux wrote:i did a combination of both.after the spacers were fitted i also fitted spacers to the rear diff mounts to correct the angle of the cvs,then wound torsions up slightly but that's to level with the back.weather the torsions are wound up or not the travel will still go up to the bump stop

like i say its all coming out.is this for a road going vehicle?on mine after i fitted the ball joint spacers on the lhs i could no longer get the alignment back to factory levels so i then welded a plat to the top of a arm to push mounting bolts out towards the tip of the arm.back when i did it this was ok.now the plate would need xrays to check it all out but again its doable or again you could be happy to have the lift but alignment slightly out

got some pics of spacers u used for diff and cud be keen on bj spacers

muddyhilux wrote:i don't think you can buy 15x8 -44 off the shelf anywhere

I've spent a while looking for wide o/s 8" rims and came to that same answer. Best bet seems to be get a set of rims widened. I had Royce Clive Engineering recommended to me but I havn't sorted out rims yet to get done.

my rims are custom center fliped .
-19 or -24 15x8s will work sweet with 12.5 33's

balljiont spacers .

I think I've got a 1" set floating around somewhere, along with a diff/swaybar drop kit as well.

UBZ wrote:my rims are custom center fliped .
-19 or -24 15x8s will work sweet with 12.5 33's

balljiont spacers .

I think I've got a 1" set floating around somewhere, along with a diff/swaybar drop kit as well.

how much you want for bj spacers and diff drop dowm kit

Ok safe, might have to just run with the 2" Suspension lift till the funds allow the body lift.

Is it safe to do the Suspension lift first then body lift? I'm pretty confident of doing the suspension lift myself after finding heaps of info/pics online.

Yea not really keen on the JB spacers if its screwing the alignment....

like ya say muddyhilux depends on what I want to put up with and looks like I can put up with some rubbing for a bit lol

yes its completely fine to do just suspension lift then body lift at a later date.and weather or not the ball joint spacers actually put the alignment parameters out or not I'm not sure as the plate to move holes was only on the left hand side.drivers side adjusted up no worries so i think potentially my truck might have had damage or have been bent in some was.here's the pics anyway

plate welded to top of LHS arms


a arm where you can just see the spacer circled in red


and diff drop blocks,again circled in red

I have 33x13.5x15 mudzillas on 15x8 -19 steelies on my kzn130.
Has a 2 inch body lift, 3 inch rear spring lift, 1.5inch ball joint spacers and slightly wound torsions (+ 1inch front diff drop spacers) up front.
Drives good, no rubbing.

the diff drop blocks are they just steel?how much does it correct the cvs? sorry for the thread jack

samewan wrote: sorry for the thread jack

all good mate go hard more info in one thread the better

muddyhilux wrote:weather or not the ball joint spacers actually put the alignment parameters out or not I'm not sure as the plate to move holes was only on the left hand side.drivers side adjusted up no worries so i think potentially my truck might have had damage or have been bent in some was.here's the pics anyway

ahhh true good to know then, cheers for the pics, things becoming a lot clearer now

The blocks are just steel. i think mine are 60mm dia x 25mm thick.
They bring the axles down a bit, better than not having them. only cost me 15 bucks down at the engineers.
but im going to go to a 1.5 or 2inch drop once i sort the exhaust as it runs under the driveshaft preventing the diff from being dropped any lower. This should bring the axles to almost factory angles

I've never had any problems with my 33x12.5x15's (Nankangs) with 2 inch sus and 2 inch body lift, I even broke a diff before a CV, so must not have that much CV angle ? I did have to massage the inner guards with my 15x9.5 - 39 as apposed to my 15x8 -19. (this was on my VZN130 NZ New 4 Runner)

pretty much the same story with my old one, 2" suspension lift and 2" body lift. no rubs with 33/13.50x15s.

Any suspension lift theoretically needs a wheel alignment.

Cheers Daniel

Lynx wrote:Any suspension lift theoretically needs a wheel alignment.

Cheers Daniel

especially one with independant front