Help With rock sliders...

[ladeda]

As I know bugger all about em and am setting some up on the shitta Need to ask a question first.
What is the best position to have em?
That is, how low below the level of the sill should they sit and how for out?

Here are a couple of pics to look at, I duno if itll help.

about 20mm out from sill

about 5mm out from sill

the way Ill be ataching them is via some solid bar slid into the jacking points and bolted in.
thanks for any advice in advance.

[J_Dub]

My view is that if they are built right they should never bend or buckle in most situations ( they r ther to take a hiding) and when or if this hapens you chop them off and make another set. So make them so they look good and fit in tight and close, but then if you want them to act as a bumper aswel to nudge up against trees you want them out past your panels... Comprimise between looks and being practical

[Sadam_Husain]

Theres no hard and fast rules mate but in general you want them out far enough to keep the body away from banks and shit to help protect it and stop you getting hooked up but not far enough out so that your tyres are still sticking out wider than the barwork so you've still got your wheels riding around banks and shit for traction without the barwork hooking you up. You want to try and curve the ends of the bars back into or under the body so you dont have blind ends that will get hooked up and snag on trees and shit and hook you up. You also have to concider things like making sure your foot cant slide off the barwork when your climbing into your truck and slip between the bar and body and snap your ankle off like my flatdeck cruiser always tries to do to me

you need them to be strong enough and mounted securely so you can jack your truck up on a highlift without bending and crushing your sills

[ladeda]

Thats perfect thanks again for the help.

Im using 3mm thick 45 round, cutting a hole to slide in and weld 18x18mm solid bar with 2 m10 bolt threads taped through.

will slide into the front and rear jack points (the bit where the screw driver is in) and be bolted from underside/ side of jack points, Im wondering wether bolting from the side would be better to prevent bolts catching on ground etc but then from under neath would be better due to load direction being upwards when jacking or sitting on log/rock etc.....???

shoulda thought about curving the ends before I cut to length hey so Ill try keep em in nice and close and up high as poss as well. Im also getting some dome caps to weld on the ends.

If any of this sounds like a dumb Idea please let me know

[Sadam_Husain]

[skid]

hahahahahahaha those last 2 pics show just how awesome sliders can be, lol

tui ad

maybe it was the drivers skills he probably forgot to engage the blue lights

[Sadam_Husain]

hahahahahahaha those last 2 pics show just how awesome sliders can be, lol

tui ad

maybe it was the drivers skills he probably forgot to engage the blue lights

Nah it all came out with a good buff

[tomsoffroad]

Dont forget the body is rubber mounted and will hit the sliders with a big enough jolt

[coxsy]

i run a box section under the body seam so if the slider is mover upward the seam hits a flat section instead of a single round section
oh and have them stick out as far as your wheels do

[ladeda]

Dont forget the body is rubber mounted and will hit the sliders with a big enough jolt

na shes a real shitta there mate old ladeda dont have any rubber mount.

[ladeda]

it only weighs about 1.5t fuly loaded so was gona go for something like this and keep it in nice and close but far enough to bend a bit first before contacting the sill.

do ya recon thatll hold up to a bump or two and hold the weight if jacked up with highlift..... or is that a bit of a joke and fall apart just looking at a stump.

[niblik]

that a bit of a joke and fall apart just looking at a stump.

this. bar holding sliders rail = shizenhouser.

[Sadam_Husain]

do ya recon thatll hold up to a bump or two and hold the weight if jacked up with highlift..... or is that a bit of a joke and fall apart just looking at a stump.

ummm.... like nibz says,

theres nothing wrong with knocking up the MK1 version and then seeing what went wrong to work out how they have to a bit stronger and no blind ends hooking you up etc so you can suss out how to do the flash MK2 version

my red flatdeck above has got strong bars that dont bend or flex but my 40 series ones are made of lighter tube and flex like shit farking both sills and the drivers side has buckled

[pruggerdore]

hi saddam can you remember the size and wall thickness of the pipes as in

inadequate is .......
adequate is..........

how strong to make such things but not throwing too much weight in is always a hard call so most of us tend to make things overkill and the downside is extra weight. mine are not so much for rocksliders but a ladder for the missus but still got to make strong enough to take a beating. bit late to try and protect panels. not a straight panel left, actually most are absolutely mangled

[rokhound]

I don't know what those things are you pictured, but for gods sake don't put them anywhere near your truck (even if it is a lada).
The design that Coxsy showed you is the minimum (IMO) that should be done for sliders. I mount my C section at 90 deg to the way coxsy has his, but I don't see any issues with either way. Mine weaigh a shit load, but the exo is also mounted to them and I rely on them to skid steer me around boulders etc when required.
Sliders are by far and away the most important peice of bar work on a truck (once again IMO).

[Sadam_Husain]

hi saddam can you remember the size and wall thickness of the pipes as in

inadequate is .......
adequate is..........

how strong to make such things but not throwing too much weight in is always a hard call so most of us tend to make things overkill and the downside is extra weight.

yeah your bang on there clive its always a bit subjective as to what you want out of them and your application as to how you build them, my 40 series ones have been built light to keep weight down and uses 34mm O/D tube, dunno what the wall thickness is, just by nature of their design with only 2 chassis mounts and quite long mounts theres a lot of leverage and flex in them so you'd only rate them as medium duty type bars, they help protect the bodywork a bit but arent the most practical for sliding over shit without getting hooked up or bent. I cant remember what size tube the flatdeck cruiser ones are and I'm not a steel man but they are 40 something mm probably 44mm ish or something like that and heavy wall and farking heavy, they have 3 chassis mounts and less length and leverage on them and they take a beating on anything I can throw at them, Roks at the furthermost end of the scale and has to rely on his to skid and slide over ugly truck breaking shit that we wouldnt ever look at so they would be one of the more critical design features of his truck for strength and effectiveness

[tomsoffroad]

Roks at the furthermost end of the scale and has to rely on his to skid and slide over ugly truck breaking shit that we wouldnt ever look at so they would be one of the more critical design features of his truck for strength and effectiveness

Either way, even a concrete barrier wall in the local mall could hurt

Have to agree with everyone else. Ditch the 18x18 and use tube, bigger the better. Then make 100x100x5 plates and weld all that shit to the chassis Bugger bolts

[coxsy]

used custom made u bolts on a prado he uses them as high lift jack points oh 1'' 1/4 pipe good for sliders

[rokhound]

These are the ones that are on my dd playdoh






And these are the same as the ones on the mutt



and with the exo on

[coxsy]

yer and i love your design rok

[ladeda]

shirt ay I hear yas, might be back to the drawing board me thinks
Thanks again chaps will come back to this thread with some new plans when I come up with them.
might try find some 4mm wall tube aswell.

[callum007]

Yep I'm not gonna copy rocks "C" mounts, but i'll use 3 instead of 2. Using 65NB sch40 pipe with flats cut into them for steps.

[Nivapulledout]

What all these guys are not getting is there is NO Chassis to weld/Bolt anything solid too. Ladas are monocoque chassis like a mini. Very hard to bolt/weld anything big and heavy to something that is formed out of 1.5mm panel steel. he he

I have seen ones like what you have done on the UK lada site and have not heard anything go wrong, but then the poms are pretty pussy on their green lanes.

I Plan on cutting out the outer half of the sill and welding in 50x100x3mm box section to replace the sill. this will act as a good solid object to take the rock hits and also be strong enough to slide over stuff, also will be able to high lift on it. because it will replace the sill it will have a large contact area with the monocoque so will be able to distribute any load it takes really well.

I think this may be enough for what I want but if not it will give you something nice big and beefy to weld protruding sliders to keep you off the bank.

I would post a pic but dont have any as I have not done it yet. I have the steel but have not been in NZ for a few years to finish off my build

[ladeda]

yep I was stairing at it for quiet some time last night (with beer in hand ofcorse) and I was really strugling to see how to do it other than using the jacking points as the mounts.
Keeping in mind the sill is the lowest point of the car and if i were to bend up some sliders to go under the sill and angle back up to the chassis I would also be loosing the tiny amount of ground clearence iv just created by lifting the sus
Im not too keen on going to the extent of totally replacing the sills as I want to try keep it as origional as poss.
Any other ideas guys?

I can post up some picks of the underside if ya'd like to see what im dealing with..

[tomsoffroad]

I can post up some picks of the underside if ya'd like to see what im dealing with..

Yes please

[niblik]

why not fab a heavy walled bit of box/ thickish flat plate into/onto the sill or something that will be similar to the profile of the sills on ya lada...? in that way it'll incorporate the sill and slider in one, but the sill wont buckle like the normal unit as it'll be 'the oober beef'? also it'll look closer to this 'stock' ya mentioned..

i got a pic of my fawdy's tub with the mod done, its just that the sills on a fawdy a square and make for easy moddin... the idea could be adapted to suit your application though. then ya wouldnt lose clearances etc..

[Heath]

What all these guys are not getting is there is NO Chassis to weld/Bolt anything solid too. Ladas are monocoque chassis like a mini. Very hard to bolt/weld anything big and heavy to something that is formed out of 1.5mm panel steel. he he

I have seen ones like what you have done on the UK lada site and have not heard anything go wrong, but then the poms are pretty pussy on their green lanes.

I Plan on cutting out the outer half of the sill and welding in 50x100x3mm box section to replace the sill. this will act as a good solid object to take the rock hits and also be strong enough to slide over stuff, also will be able to high lift on it. because it will replace the sill it will have a large contact area with the monocoque so will be able to distribute any load it takes really well.

I think this may be enough for what I want but if not it will give you something nice big and beefy to weld protruding sliders to keep you off the bank.

I would post a pic but dont have any as I have not done it yet. I have the steel but have not been in NZ for a few years to finish off my build

Seen some sliders in a vitara (And also a samurai) where they were welded into the sills after the original sills got trashed. Gave a really solid new "hidden" strong slider and removed the damaged sills in one go. Looked good and would be something I'd consider for a light weight wagon not getting thrashed into boulders, but with the addition of some chassis mounts they would be strong enough for most obstacles.

[coxsy]

oh no chassis what a bugger

[Tarmac]

From my amature point of view stuff will bend at the weakest link ,like in your photos the solid 18mm wont take much, bigger heavy wall tube has far more strength - think MT bike frames, car chassies etc. Replacing the sill aera with 3mm+ box is a proven idea, how bout welding in some 3mm plate to mount the sliders off. Like the mounting points of a roll cage so the tube dosnt punch through the body but upside down? then you can mount it how you like

[SP450andLE]

What all these guys are not getting is there is NO Chassis to weld/Bolt anything solid too. Ladas are monocoque chassis like a mini. Very hard to bolt/weld anything big and heavy to something that is formed out of 1.5mm panel steel. he he

Hah, two of my cars in one post

I'm going to make some sliders like those from the UK lada site for my standard Niva, and see how they go. It's not going to be used for anything super rough, but will be a good test, so I can develop the design for use on the fiva

Oh and Dustin, lemme know if you wanna come round for a brainstorming/beer session to figure out how to possibly mount them better