Trademe Turbo kits

[92 safari 17]

Anyone know if ya can still buy the $1600 turbo kits that use to be on trademe? the DSR ones if i remember the brand corectly, dont want one of those offroader kits, or were i could pbuy one from? or any suggestions on another kit around the same price?

cheers

[3VILC]

They dont seem to list the kit anymore, but maybe ring/email them and ask
http://www.dsrturbo.com

[DaveM]

They don't sell them anymore, they told me it's because the chinese "stole" their design, but the manifolds have been sold on ebay well before DSR claimed to be the designers.
Can still get them on ebay from China or oz.

[shag n nasty]

Hi, I'm new to this site and was wondering if you guys could help me out. My brother has a TD42 and he has a huge American caravan which he wants to tow so we thought we would turbo it.
I got hold of DSR today and as you say they donot sell any of the parts in this kit any more.
I see their are a couple of guys selling manifolds on trademe, one stainless and the other mild steel.
We want a turbo to suit that will have heaps of grunt down low and the DSR turbo did. Full boost @ 1600 RPM. This truck will be pulling around 4 tons of weight in 4th gear @ around 2800RPM @ 90 KPH, a big ask I know, but won't be used very often.
I see on other posts here that a ( I THINK) T3 or T4 would do the same as the DSR turbo did. Does anyone know if that is correct? As I say we want to boost at low revs and pull hard to around 3000 revs.

Thanks Shayne

[nismo26]

I see on other posts here that a ( I THINK) T3 or T4 would do the same as the DSR turbo did. Does anyone know if that is correct? As I say we want to boost at low revs and pull hard to around 3000 revs.

Thanks Shayne

T3 or T4 only tells you the frame of the turbo not much else there is probably over 1000 different T3 T4 turbos ranging from 200 to 800hp.

The DSR manifold is a pain if you want to put a top mount intercooler.

You could also look at getting a manifold from Aussie out of one of the kits, then get a turbo from the States and do the rest yourself.

[Suza]

This is on Trademe at the moment

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 310528.htm

[shag n nasty]

Thanks for that As you can see I know buggar all about turbo's have had them for years on cars and 4x4's but never touched them.
What turbo would you recommend as I have no idea now. Been reading more on DSR turbo's and am starting to feel glad that they are not available any more. From what I had read on his site and TM it was a simple bolt on and go.
Also, about the manifolds, my brother is dead set on a cast one or DSR type, But I see on TM 2 guy's are selling tube type. One stainless here in ch ch and a mild steel on up north. I quite like the mild steel one as looks as if it would have excellent flow but guess it would lose heat.
The stainless one I feel I could make my self as I use to weld alloy boats and have an ac dc tig and brother is a welder as well.

The manifolds from Aussie, are they top or bottom mount? as you mention hard to top mount intercooler on the cast one.

[nismo26]

The manifolds from Aussie, are they top or bottom mount? as you mention hard to top mount intercooler on the cast one.

Some are top mount some are bottom mount, yea the DSR one the turbo sits pretty close to the head, you would have the exhaust housing right by the intercooler, some of the Aussie kits have the turbo in a better position depends how much you want to spend.

[shag n nasty]

Which one do you guy's think would be best out of these 2 on TM

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =466668638

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =467705965

and what about this that SUZA posted Thanks for that.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =469310528

[coxsy]

manifolds the first one, maybe close to battery and air con hoses,
complete set up has its merits though

[shag n nasty]

manifolds the first one, maybe close to battery and air con hoses,
complete set up has its merits though

So you think the stainless one then...
What are the merits of the complete set up Coxsy? excuse me for being so dumb about all this.

[shag n nasty]

How about one of these turbo's

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 391442.htm

or this

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 560865.htm

[coxsy]

stainless looks to far forward on manifold which limits space for air in ect
well its all the bits, mate, took 3 months to do my dsr, had to buy shit loads to do it right,
its that simple , coming home and having it sit there as cash or time stop you getting bits, A1 pain

[crazyclark31]

if your going to turbo your truck then the best bet is to go with a steam pipe or cast manifold. they move the least giving less hassles long term. as davem stated get one off ebay.

As for a turbo i'd be getting a td05. Plenty of them on t/m. also get a rebuild kit and put it in. Had one of these in my old shorty and went from a 23sec for 0 to 100km/h slug to a 12.5 sec 0- 100km/h rocket.
These are a good reliable and proven turbo that will outlast most of those 'other brand' turbos you see.
Mine gave me full boost at 1700rpm(15psi) and held it steady right through the rev range.
If you have the nohow it an't hard to fit one up just need all the right bits.

If going to the trouble of fitting a trubo then you need to fit 3in exhuast. Also if your using it for towing then i'd strongly recomend you fit the biggest intercooler you can in the front. They way more effective than a top mount.
If you do all of these mods you will be blown away with the transformation.
Let me know if you need more info on the bits and pieces you'll need.

Mike

[coxsy]

be careful of high boost on unknown engine

this top mount is cool

[DaveM]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Safar ... 878wt_1140

[crazyclark31]

[quote="coxsy"]be careful of high boost on unknown engine

this top mount is cool
[img]
True that .... but 15psi is well within the safe zone with these motors.
You do need to use good quailty oil and air filters tho.(not valvoline desiel extra!!!!)

[coxsy]

there is a new photo showing a crack round the liner on number 6 piston

[shag n nasty]

Thanks very much for that guy's it sounds like cast and Td05 it will be. Great to know where to start with the right bits that are proven to work.

Are they Td05 internal waste gate, and set @ 15 lb when you buy them, and did you have to any pump mods.

[coxsy]

yes add a td27 pump boost top and had injectors serviced

[crazyclark31]

nope i didn't have any pump mods done to mine. A boost compensator onlyt stops the black smoke when off boost any how and if you don;t wind the fuel up to much then it wont be too much of a problem. If the truck is well serviced and in good nick motor wise then you should be okay.
remember desiels are the opposite to petrols when it come to fuel setting.

The tdo5's are internal wasgated and are normally set to 7-10 psi depending what car they are off.
As said put a rebuild kit in them. Then you know you have a good one.
Best way to up it is the boost controller way..
Make sure the tdo5 you get has a 16g small compressor as the 18 and 20g wheels have waaayyyy to much lag. You want to try to get one off a 1997-2002 era car. they are most commonly found on wrx's and evos.

BTW is the truck a manual or auto?

[nismo26]

If you use any td05 with the cast manifold you are going to need an adapter to bolt the turbo up not sure if you can buy one or if it would have to be custom made they came out with different flanges depending on what car it came out of, The late model evo td05 has a c*nty twin scroll flange would be a pain to adapt it from the td05 to T3 flange the dump pipe would be a pain to make as well, you could get something like a Garrett GT2860 it has a t25 flange (You might be able to get one with a T3 flange), you can buy t25 to t3 adapters but a Gt2860 is around $1500 new.

[shag n nasty]

It's a manual, 89 I think LWB. Motor seems to be in excellent nick and without towing 4 ton in weight, goes like hell without a turbo. Put the weight on and 70 to 80 kph is top speed with it's fair share of black smoke:-).

How can I tell when buying a second hand turbo that it has a 16g wheel? are they marked on the outside or something, or any other way of telling? and is this a common size for the 97 to 2002 models.

Yea the flange thing could be a problem, but could make a thick spacer which could be a good place to mount an EGT instead of drilling the manifold.

The garret sounds a bit expensive, don't really want to spend that much on just a turbo alone, only wanting to spend about 2.5K all up. Thinking we might throw some new bearings in it when the sump comes off to weld the oil return line on.

Would you know what a second hand Td05 and new kit are roughly worth and does the kit have to be installed by an expert and balanced, or can you throw them in your self?

Bloody hell, a lot of questions I know, but don't want to waist money on shit that won't work.

[crazyclark31]

most of the tdo5s for sale are 16gs.
From what ive see most tdo5s go for around $250 and rebuild kits vary. Got mine off e-bay for $135nz but are on t/m for $180-$200. If you've got a bit of sense then you can do them yourself.(i did mine). Make sure you mark the shaft and comp wheel so you get them back in same place.(keeps it balanced)
Try and stay away from the twin scroll models.
Only reson i said 1997-2002 models is because the ones that come off the loder subys have a 90deg bend on the comp housing and you have to cut it off and weld a striaght pipe on. If you can weld alloy then these are sweet to use aswell.
If you do get a turbo off a suby get the banjo bolt for the oil feed as its a odd thread pitch
I did 15thou kms in mine before i sold it. Guy that bought it has thrown 35s on it and its still pullin like a school boy
Fyi my whole conversion cot me $1000 all up. including 3in exhuast. Did everything myself tho

[shag n nasty]

I see your from Invercargill, I was working down their a few years back welding up boats at Stabi-Craft.

I looked on Trade Me the other night for some turbo's and kits. I see the kits don't have shafts or comp wheels. Do these not need replacing. I would have thought they would have been the main new parts in a rebuild.

I also noticed they do have a c nty flange to fit to the T# manifold. How did you get on with yours.

[Twodiffs]

nope i didn't have any pump mods done to mine. A boost compensator onlyt stops the black smoke when off boost any how and if you don;t wind the fuel up to much then it wont be too much of a problem. If the truck is well serviced and in good nick motor wise then you should be okay.
remember desiels are the opposite to petrols when it come to fuel setting.

The tdo5's are internal wasgated and are normally set to 7-10 psi depending what car they are off.
As said put a rebuild kit in them. Then you know you have a good one.
Best way to up it is the boost controller way..
Make sure the tdo5 you get has a 16g small compressor as the 18 and 20g wheels have waaayyyy to much lag. You want to try to get one off a 1997-2002 era car. they are most commonly found on wrx's and evos.

BTW is the truck a manual or auto?

What are your thoughts on a 16g with the large compressor out of curosity?

[crazyclark31]

nope i didn't have any pump mods done to mine. A boost compensator onlyt stops the black smoke when off boost any how and if you don;t wind the fuel up to much then it wont be too much of a problem. If the truck is well serviced and in good nick motor wise then you should be okay.
remember desiels are the opposite to petrols when it come to fuel setting.

The tdo5's are internal wasgated and are normally set to 7-10 psi depending what car they are off.
As said put a rebuild kit in them. Then you know you have a good one.
Best way to up it is the boost controller way..
Make sure the tdo5 you get has a 16g small compressor as the 18 and 20g wheels have waaayyyy to much lag. You want to try to get one off a 1997-2002 era car. they are most commonly found on wrx's and evos.

BTW is the truck a manual or auto?

What are your thoughts on a 16g with the large compressor out of curosity?

They'd be okay but you'd want pump mods to make it work properly. Having small dia tube manifold to speed up the gas flow without losing the heat would help. other than that don't know too much about them.

[crazyclark31]

I see your from Invercargill, I was working down their a few years back welding up boats at Stabi-Craft.

I looked on Trade Me the other night for some turbo's and kits. I see the kits don't have shafts or comp wheels. Do these not need replacing. I would have thought they would have been the main new parts in a rebuild.

I also noticed they do have a c nty flange to fit to the T# manifold. How did you get on with yours.

If the turbo isn't stuffed ie is still a runner then you don't need to replace those parts. they run a full floating oil bush bearing. the comp wheel and the trbine will be fine unless they have chips in them. then i just wouldn't buy it.

i never had any issues as i made up my own manifold so just used the factory flange that fitted the turbo

[shag n nasty]

Ok I see, that would be easy. Looking at the TD05, on the exhaust side ..... or where (I guess) the original dump pipe bolts on, what did you do their. The ones Ive seen on Trade Me dont seem to have a dump pipe to bolt onto it, just the turbo.
Did you just cut the original dump and weld the new exhaust onto it.

[crazyclark31]

nope. made a new flange(can buy them) and just made my exhuast from there. i just used 3in mandrel bends and cut and welded to suit.