Offroad-Express

Hi all,

as the title say's I had both the lights not working for the number plate both blubs were phucked so I wanted to use the better option of the LED ones put thoses in then 'pop' fuse blew it is a 10Amp fuse, I have no idea why the fuse keeps blowing, I have two lights either side.

Any ideas, Iam guessing there is a short some where but I dont know were to start.

So if someone could give me a few tips or idea's would be bloody fastasic.

Cheers.

The old bulbs were blown because you had a short.

Pull the fuse and put a test light in its place and it should light up if you have a short.

Start at the back on the truck unplugging the loom where you can. Light goes out when short is removed. Works in theory but often its hard to follow the loom and its often one piece.

I often just rewire the circuit if its something basic like that. Start again. Quicker usually.

Matt.

just a wonder, but do the new LED lights draw more than 10amps to run? could be wrong.. otherwise would suggest a straight short to ground, would start around the wiring where the original lights were checking for damage

If you have a trailor plug have a look there they often get damaged or full of water & crap.

My MU had the same issue , found out where the wires come out of body into the bumper area the wires had been rubbed through outer cover but wires still intact , singled out dodgy wire and covered with heatshrink and never had trouble again

cheers
Greg

crazyrb wrote:just a wonder, but do the new LED lights draw more than 10amps to run? could be wrong.. otherwise would suggest a straight short to ground, would start around the wiring where the original lights were checking for damage

Nah, LED's draw feek all.
Does the fuse blow without the bulbs fitted?
If so, it is in the wiring. If not, there may be a fault with one of the bulbs or you have disturbed some thing causing a short circuit.

Just a case of eliminating things one by one

Cheers,

sibainmud wrote:

crazyrb wrote:just a wonder, but do the new LED lights draw more than 10amps to run? could be wrong.. otherwise would suggest a straight short to ground, would start around the wiring where the original lights were checking for damage

Nah, LED's draw feek all.
Does the fuse blow without the bulbs fitted?
If so, it is in the wiring. If not, there may be a fault with one of the bulbs or you have disturbed some thing causing a short circuit.

Just a case of eliminating things one by one

Cheers,

Thanks for all your replies, this is something that really makes me mad and it is only the little things too.

The answer to your question Simon is no it does not blow when there are no bulbs fitted, I tried both LED bulbs and they both poped the fuse, I tried putting in a bigger fuse 15Amp and it blew that too, so Iam not to sure about this one I might have to come and see you Simon.

Cheers

Based on that reply, should take a few minutes to sort. You know where i live, and you know my number.

Cheers,

sibainmud wrote:Based on that reply, should take a few minutes to sort. You know where i live, and you know my number.

Cheers,

Will do, Thanks Mate.

4 inch nail fuse maybe?

kbjj wrote:4 inch nail fuse maybe?

Then we can all gather around it and toast marshmallows and sing Kumbaya

I'll let ya's know what i find.

Cheers,

It was a 5 minute job after all
The T-10 LED bulbs were ok, and the little wire contacts on the wedge base were set up for the standard wedge bulb holders (end to end). The bulb holders on the MU were a bit different from the normal T-10 ones. They were set up for side to side contacts so the bulb base was causing a direct short. All I did was move the little wire contacts to suit the side to side configuration (looped them from under the bottom of the base to double back on themselves on their own respective sides) and hey presto, we had light
Easy fix.

Cheers,