Offroad-Express

Hi.
I just took my 87 hilux for a wof and it failed on few general things but one thing im not to sure about is that theediff pinion is loose is this a east fix ?? If so how ??? Also where can i get rubber mud guards from ???

where abouts are ya located? could possibly give you a hand mate, do they mean the pinion is loose, ie the pinion nut and the pinion flange moves in and out? thats not too good, would affect the way your diff is set up, could possibly get away with just tightening it, or have you got up and down movement in the flange? ie your pinion bearings have collapsed..

Im in christchurch. nt sure but yeah seems to be in and out the guys at wof place didnt say anything ,useless !!!

by a new pinion nut and some shims, and 5 odd litres of diff oil, a few mates round one afternoon and get busy.

Do you no how much that would be ?

Zac 87hilux wrote:Do you no how much that would be ?

from memory for the pinion nut and shims for my KZN130 rear diff was about $56.00 from toyota.

the diff oil's the most expensive bit, make sure you get the right stuff LSD/non LSD etc

may pay to change the bearings while your at it(just an idea)

when you re shim it tighten it up with the old nut, dont use the new one untill you are happy there is no lash (play) between the pinion and crown wheel, once you have the right amount of shims in place and there is no play then put the new nut on.

step 1...chock the front wheels, take the tail shaft off and loosen the nut off first before jacking it up as the hand brake doesnt usually have enough hold on a nut with so much torque applied to it.

step 2 jack the back up and drain the diff oil(at this point you have a beer while waiting as it takes the tar a while to drain out

Step 3 undo the hand brake cables and undo the 4 nuts that hold the hub to the axle housing(easier too if you take the wheels off but not completley nessassary) on both sides, you shouldn't need to undo the brake lines as you can slide the axles out enough to get the diff head and pinion housing out.

step 4 undo the bolts around the pinion housing and get a mate to help you lift it out (there fuckin heavier then they look)

Step 5 move the pinion shaft back and forth and measure how much movement there is(ive never seen a pinion nut move by itself so unlikley it just needs (tightening), "just tightening" the pinion nut is not good as it changes the contact points that the gear teeth have, the further you tighten the pinion the less surface area contact the easier it is to smash the teeth off.

Step six, now undo the nut completely and dismantle and clean everything.

reassemble with the correct thickness of shims that are required to remove the play(this should be the measurment you took earlier)

step 7...reassemble the diff head and (using the old nut) tighten up the pinion and check for play and the contact surfaces of the teeth if ok take the old nut off and put the new one on.

step 8 clean out the diff housing, get all the odd steel bits and gunk out that you can.(there will be steel bits and gunk its normal with wear)

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