Offroad-Express

Have a vibration from 80ks up that is annoying.

Started after doing an ome lift kit and has got worse.

Dropped it into g guys today for them to have a look. I checked the drive shaft and it seemed fine to me.

G guys say that all suspension joints need to be rebushed front and rear. They suggest poly bushes which seems to be all they can get. Interestingly enough it got a vtnz warrant two weeks ago.

Rear control arms and panhard and top arm bushes will be about 700 fitted. Front not priced.Vibration seems to come from the rear.

Have checked and OEM rubber bushes are available out of the US. Bush only prices seem to be about half.

Would like to do as little as possible. I have had poly bushes before in cars and they rode hard. Have also heard about lack of flex. Anyone have any thoughts?

Matt.

Not much help but Whiteline are touting a lifetime warranty on their new range, found them way too hard myself but hey

Poly bushes do ride real hard ...they dont tend to absorb the small vibrations ....if ya can get rubber go for it....You could also get a second opinion as to whats causing it.

Drive line angles ? would seem more likely to me if it only started vibrating after u put the lift kit in ?

Cheers guys. Truck has 290km so its likely they are shagged,maybe not the only cause though.

Haven't heard from anyone else getting issues with only the 1.5in lift I have.

Any other thoughts?

Cheers
Matt

Have a read of this it might just solve your problem http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

Thanks. The flogged out bushes will be affecting the drive line angles definitely.

Matt

and the acuter angle on the UJ's, may pay to look closely at them, with the change in angle the're could be a little slack in worn areas with the force on them changing wear area's on the yoke/s

The gearbox mount is also flogged out. Anyone know where to get one at a decent price?

Matt.

So thats a seven with two zeros right? wow!! failed a WOF with the 413 on shackle bushes among other things, rang round and was quoted 75 each end for nolathane? bushes just for shackles, ended up getting shackle plus leaf eye F+R and full shock bushes in rubber (which I prefer) for 108 delivered. Not factory but still a nice product, sorry I burnt the packaging and cannot remember the manufacture.

They are a very popular 4wd all round the world under various brands, there must be a cheaper option,

SAS should sell the bushes in normal rubber. def check the uj and for the price of them replace them as a piece of mind with that many km on it you wouldnt know when they were last done.

the mount shop or sas may have the gearbox mount

I bought the flexure joint bushes for my Prado from SAS in rubber, thinking they were what I wanted. They lasted less than 20,000km. The factory rubber bushes had lasted over 200,000km. I now have factory Nissan ones.
I suggest you stay with rubber but get factory parts, be it from Isuzu, or from another vehicle, where they do the same job and are the same size.

Thanks guys.

Matt

Ok mine is leaf sprung rear and I rebushed all the ones in the shackles when I lifted it, I got a vibration which is definitely from the increased driveline angles - however only noticable upon acceleration. Both rear and front driveshafts havent lasted long before needing to be replaced (unis shat themselves). So you might want to check the driveshaft closely

Went to pick a part today to rob the arms off the truck there however the pan hard was worn and the passenger arm was bent.

I took the top diff arm and the drivers side arm and fitted the drivers side arm when I got home. The front bush was shot and the centre sleeve fell out when I removed the arm.

80% of the vibration has gone which is great. The Mount shop has stock rubber bushes for about 40 each so I might fit new bushes to the existing arms.

Matt.

seems they make ploy or nolathane or ?? brand name? in a varity of grades / hardness. And the softer end of the scale feels like rubber bushes.
And you can buy it in slugs of various diameters..

Bush tolerances arnt that critical +/- .1 - .2 at a guess wld be fine. The most important part wld be a SHARP tool to turn it with for a gd finish,

Another trick I've heard for machining soft plastics is to freeze them first as this seems to harden them. You'll have to google it to get the right temperature ranges.