Offroad-Express

Found these on Trade Me. Seem a bit pricey for what they are, especially since they are some $70 NZD on Bits4Vits.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 289085.htm

Are they hard to make/buy in NZ?

Let alone being able to buy the right length shocks for the same money...

Seems very expensive to me

Like you said why would you buy them if you can get the right length shocks for the same price.

what a rip off

What a waste of money when you can acheive the same thing by flipping the top of the strut and thats free

Plus you will most likely have to extend your bump stops as well if those extentions were used easier to just get the correct lenght shocks from the word go

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=488940006

I got these made for $140 from 4340 chromoly steel, stronger then the ones listed on Trademe.

WOW... at wk were making the wrong stuff for the return, I cldnt see what its made out of but even "if" you cut the hex from HT round bar then it can be all of 5? min total in a CNC assuming the bottom end is drilled n tapped as well, and Im being generous on the 5min - plus settin up / not a whole lot as you wld do a run of 10 or 20. Must be RnD costs...

But yup you get a lotta new shock for 250

Strut top flip gives you 19mm extra down, these give you 50mm down. This is much better.

Also the strut top doesn't work as it should upside down but no one seems to say there are any issues with it. Not my preference though.

Took me about 3 hours to make by hand (and stuffed them up, ended up outsourcing them) but a CNC would smash these out. Didn't realise you can get HT hex bar.

For a quantity of 20 I was quoted $40 each made by a machining centre.

$40 ea for 20 sounds round about right, I have never looked into hex HT/41.. steel, I believe hex is 1045 or similar(also iron) that I have come across, happy to be wrong.

"I" wld cut the hex by hand with 6hole plate dividing head and dead center on a mill, 1 or 2 cuts per side, back to back then cut in half. Chuck in a CNC, Roberts you fathers brother.

Not a how to, always more than 1 way to skin a cat and def not trying to sound like a clever bastard.. Just my humble opinion

I too have cut threads by hand an FKD more than 1, but thats how you learn isnt it?

I didn't even bother with the hex, just used a pipe wrench to tighten it and 2 grub screws to lock it on. It would be nicer with a hex, you could get rid of the grubscrews.

I just wanted a good strong steel so chose 4340. It seems machines alright for a novice.

Haha, how did you know I stuffed the threads up? Ended up tapping the external thread on a 5º angle, really pissed me off as it was the last step in the process...

3hrs by hand ... and then fkd it up kinda gave it away been there done that, hex is pretty but if theres plent of clerance to tighten it up 2 opposite flats are fine and cost a whole lot less, 1/3rd of that step by my calc, plus only needs a "buzz" wide enough to fit a spanner. "Pipe wrench" you phiistine. Grub screws are a gd idea though. 41-4340 turns a dream just dont get it hot - bends like you wldnt believe, turning

Haha, sorry I meant "pin punch and hammer" instead of "pipe wrench". That's how I do all my fasteners... I'm rough but I'm slow.

2 flats is an even better idea, just enough to fit right spanner.