terrano noisy front end/gearbox worrys

[alex f]

hey everyone just bought a 91 terrano for a bit off a hack... have had it out a few times now an it has developed a noise in the front end it sounds like the auto hubs are trying to engage..?it is not doing it all the time an its a clunky noise at low speed and a scary wine at speed an it only hapens in 2wd... any solutions,ideas,recomendations greatly appreciated... also is there anyway to make the gearbox last(inputshaft).. could i replace the gearbox with a hilux box or something?

[lax2wlg]

-Regrease balljoints/front driveshaft/TREs
-Try reversing for 50m in 2H at a reasonable speed in case the hubs are confused
-Transfer case oil/chain? I had one which had the same symptom - flush and fresh fluid and it was away.
-Dump gearbox oil immediately and refill with 5.1l GL4

Theres a massive misconception that the FS5R30A is a weak gearbox, but in fact it is a very durable transmission that suffered from a simple design oversight.

Two issues:
1 - Nissan placed the oil fill hole too low on the casing, this leads to oil starvation and premature failure. FSM states 3.6l is the capacity.
2 - Gearbox MUST run on GL4 fluid, which is far less common but still available. Apparently GL5 has additives and detergents which eat synchronizing rings

Nissan released a service bulletin to address this - it maybe here but is def on NPORA. The revised oil capacity is 5.1L - a full 1.5l more! The easiest way to get the full 5.1l in there is by pulling the gearstick off and filling from the top.

I've had 3 of these gearboxes, all were a little notchy when I got them. Amazing difference in operation and peace of mind from dumping the oil and putting in 5.1L of API GL4 Redline.

[alex f]

have had to replace gearbox already and was worried about having it happen all over again due to their reputation... cheers for your advice!! i will be dumping oil an replacing with 5.1l asap an will also be greasing evrything up. do these auto hubs last or am i better of replacing with manual hubs?

[Crash bandicoot]

hey everyone just bought a 91 terrano for a bit off a hack... have had it out a few times now an it has developed a noise in the front end it sounds like the auto hubs are trying to engage..?it is not doing it all the time an its a clunky noise at low speed and a scary wine at speed an it only hapens in 2wd... any solutions,ideas,recomendations greatly appreciated... also is there anyway to make the gearbox last(inputshaft).. could i replace the gearbox with a hilux box or something?

lol, last time i heard that noise my hilux 4.5 LSD decided it didn't need any teeth on the crown wheel anymore.

[lax2wlg]

WD21 front differential is immensely strong for its application, keep the oil fresh and it wont fail.

From what I have read, the Nissan auto hubs are pretty strong (again fresh grease), the only annoyance is their tendency to disengage when going from Forward to Reverse. According to the FSM, some clicking is normal during engagement.

Some people running big oversize tyres like to keep the factory hubs, as they are designed to act like a fuse, ie fail BEFORE the CV does under stress.

Personally I have MileMarker Manual hubs, because I like the idea of 100% positive engagement, and being able to truly disconnnect the whole front end. You can by these for $99US from 4x4parts.com. I had mine shipped to Wellington no probs.

The consensus amongst WD21 owners seems to be that the IFS system at stock geometry and with stock tyre size (31x10.5) is a very durable setup. The problems come when people put 12.5" wide tyres on, crank the torsions right up, and drive heavily.

[bradi65]

-Regrease balljoints/front driveshaft/TREs
-Try reversing for 50m in 2H at a reasonable speed in case the hubs are confused
-Transfer case oil/chain? I had one which had the same symptom - flush and fresh fluid and it was away.
-Dump gearbox oil immediately and refill with 5.1l GL4

Theres a massive misconception that the FS5R30A is a weak gearbox, but in fact it is a very durable transmission that suffered from a simple design oversight.

Two issues:
1 - Nissan placed the oil fill hole too low on the casing, this leads to oil starvation and premature failure. FSM states 3.6l is the capacity.
2 - Gearbox MUST run on GL4 fluid, which is far less common but still available. Apparently GL5 has additives and detergents which eat synchronizing rings

Nissan released a service bulletin to address this - it maybe here but is def on NPORA. The revised oil capacity is 5.1L - a full 1.5l more! The easiest way to get the full 5.1l in there is by pulling the gearstick off and filling from the top.

I've had 3 of these gearboxes, all were a little notchy when I got them. Amazing difference in operation and peace of mind from dumping the oil and putting in 5.1L of API GL4 Redline.

I have the same problems in my 92 r3m v6 terrano. Funny noises and im worrdy bout the g-box. So i should just drain the g-box oil and re-fill from the gearstick till she ova flowing lol ? also iv never done anythng to do with Transfer case oil/chain should i just leave this to the garage or is it easy enouf ? is there enyone in the nelson area that would be kind enouf and knows more then me to give me a hand lol ?

[sibainmud]

WD21 front differential is immensely strong for its application, keep the oil fresh and it wont fail.


Some people running big oversize tyres like to keep the factory hubs, as they are designed to act like a fuse, ie fail BEFORE the CV does under stress.


The consensus amongst WD21 owners seems to be that the IFS system at stock geometry and with stock tyre size (31x10.5) is a very durable setup. The problems come when people put 12.5" wide tyres on, crank the torsions right up, and drive heavily.

Hmmm, front diff number 5 for me
Running Simex 32x9.5 (33.4 inch) and have never done a cv with manual hubs Broken a set of Superwinch hubs though. Avm's are lasting fine.

Confused.

Cheers,

[lax2wlg]

Well, driving style accounts for a lot of things too.
Anything mechanical has a breaking point, IMO its a case of knowing you're vehicle and driving accordingly. 9.5" width is a great option to minimize lateral force on the CVs.

[madozy]

I agree bush crasher with you, about the only trouble i have had with my 91 terrano is bending idler arms thats sorted now after making a brace and have also replaced centre link idler tie rods with 94 parts all genuine nissan not chinese rubbish there just that little bit larger and all interchange with 91 because when i bought the vehicle turned out it was all worn i wonderd why it wouldnt steer straight even with allignments. put 2 inch springs and reindexed my tortion bars so they wernt over strained and still gave me up and down movment and softer ride. I would like to get some new top arms but dont like the price of them i will import some at some stage from the states then just 2 inch body so the steering joints and cvs are kept at the same angles as they are at moment.
Also while im here has anyone got a 3 door 91 parts truck i need some interior bits and peices so i can finish my spare truck and sell it i dont need it

[lax2wlg]

Wasnt trying to sound like a know-all with that, Sibainmud definately knows how to build a sweet WD21, in terms of driving style I guess its all each to their own. And saying the R180 is immensely strong... I overstated a bit!

Personally I don't like to throw any vehicle around too much, but then again I came from Land Rovers which would break if you breathed on them too hard. So I go for the 'slow as possible, fast as necessary' approach.

I have quite a few interior bits for a 3 door, but their all in the 1980s red colour scheme. What are you after? Maybe start a new thread, I can take some photos if you need

Also the upper arms - if you talk to Mike or Jane at Automotive Customizers (4x4parts.com), they have the Rough Country/Superlift ones, about $275US. This is the brand you want, the AC brand doesn't help with balljoint angle. Tell them joshellisnz@gmail.com sent you, they will do cheap shipping to NZ via USPS (ie $40 shipping). I have these installed and they are the dog's genitals.

[oljamesyboy]

-

Theres a massive misconception that the FS5R30A is a weak gearbox, but in fact it is a very durable transmission that suffered from a simple design oversight.

Two issues:
1 - Nissan placed the oil fill hole too low on the casing, this leads to oil starvation and premature failure. FSM states 3.6l is the capacity.
2 - Gearbox MUST run on GL4 fluid, which is far less common but still available. Apparently GL5 has additives and detergents which eat synchronizing rings

Nissan released a service bulletin to address this - it maybe here but is def on NPORA. The revised oil capacity is 5.1L - a full 1.5l more! The easiest way to get the full 5.1l in there is by pulling the gearstick off and filling from the top.

I've had 3 of these gearboxes, all were a little notchy when I got them. Amazing difference in operation and peace of mind from dumping the oil and putting in 5.1L of API GL4 Redline.

sorry for the tread jack but dose this issue apply to the fs5w71c gearbox

[lax2wlg]

Yes applies to both boxes made before 94

[sibainmud]

sorry for the tread jack but dose this issue apply to the fs5w71c gearbox

Yes applies to both boxes made before 94

Lets put this into perspective.... FS5W71C is the REAL weak one. FS5R30A is a bit stronger. The FS5W30A is physically larger than the smaller FS5W71C.
Here's a picture of two 71's and a 30 to compare.


Cheers,

[oljamesyboy]

cheers for that did my oil today so hopefully makes it last longer it wasn't whining or anything and the bung/oil had next to no metal on/in it, might need to treat it nicer from now on

[lax2wlg]

It should last a lot longer now, did you use GL4 oil? Important to do this. Neither of the boxes are weak relative to the engines they were matched to, problems stem from lubrication/abuse.

[oljamesyboy]

It should last a lot longer now, did you use GL4 oil? Important to do this. Neither of the boxes are weak relative to the engines they were matched to, problems stem from lubrication/abuse.

yea used GL4. Guy at repco had no idea what GL4 was and tried telling me there was no difference nor did they have any in stock no surprise there so got some at supercheap

[Budore]

I may have got this wrong; you say that you use GL4 gear oil.

Is this GL4 a Automatic Transmission Fluid? I have had a look on eBay for GL4 and the results come up as being a EP 80W90 Hypoid Oil as used in manual gearboxes and rear axles. Is it the red ATF oil that is used in auto boxes?

I am in the process of fitting a new gearbox oil cooler to my WD21 2.7TD. I have unfastened the old rubber hoses attached to the bottom of the radiator and I have fitted the new cooler to the outside of the A/C radiator and I am about to fit the new rubber hoses to the steel pipes from the gearbox. Which pipe is the feed and the return?

I intend to replace the oil in the gearbox. A few more questions -
Is there an oil filter fitted to these auto gearboxes and if so where is it located?
Do I need to flush the gearbox to clean out the old oil which is now almost black?

B

[hamboy]

At a guess I would say you're running an auto, correct? The GL4 oil is for the manual gear boxes as the more common GL5 tends to eat the syncros. For what you've got, get some good quality ATF and a good cooler.
Im not sure on the filter (bound to be one somewhere) haven't had much to do with the autos

[philip121]

my auto was running hot i drained the old atf out put in 8 liters new oil make funnel connect to old water hose tube push hose down where the dip stick is take dip stick out first pour new oil in
I think the trans cooler hoses take oil from the r side of auto into cooler then back into the l side
if unsure leave new cooler disconected
run engine for a second or 5 and it will pump out then youll know whats what
my truck never overheats since i put a cooler on it
and has also dropped engine temp
its up hills these trucks play up when there under load or towing

[Budore]

Thank you Hamboy and Philip121.

I surmised that there must be something wrong when oljamesyboy and lax2wlg were mentioning GL4. I will use ATF in my auto box and I will wait until I have it running to find out the direction of flow for the cooler. I intend to use this vehicle for towing so I will need a good cooler.

Is there any way of flushing the old oil out of the box? I would like to get it all out because presently it is a very dark red. It gives me the impression that it has not been changed in its 25 years.

B

[zukmeista]

Should be a sump on bottom of transmission, filter usually lives inside that. As for flushing it, suggest you take it to a workshop that specialises in transmissions, they will have a proper machine to flush the fluid.