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how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 6:59 pm
by muskie
any major drawbacks? fitting simex's so just wanted to know what to expect and other peoples opinions..it will be turboed.
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 7:56 pm
by taz01
as simex tyres are oversize your going to need at least 4" lift and maybe a small guard chop to fit em i run 35 swampers taller than my 37 creapys i have 4" front 5" rear spring lift from lwb so in my swb gives me another 1" and still did a 35mm chop to clear when flexing
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:05 pm
by Taz
Think he means more if the auto is up to it or not.
One of the winch/ex challenge dudes on here reckoned they were stronger than manual boxes. Darinz or something is his name from memory. Give him a search.
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:27 pm
by nismo26
I drive mine daily on 35"s with an auto, as long as you turbo it, it will be fine, I found it really sh*t when it was non turbo even with 4.6 gears.
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:16 pm
by 92 safari 17
Autos are strong as, mine turns my 38 inch tyres algood and i thrash my auto trans abit off road
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:42 am
by muskie
thanks guys, yep concerns are all about the auto box, got the lift and clearance sorted, same as my last build...taz your tyres look wide as compared to my simex's.
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:46 am
by kbushnz
I have been told to keep those Nissan auto's cool....As when they get too hot the liners fall apart....Especially if you do any towing etc etc.. Probably the same for most auto's...
So if you haven't already, throw in a trans cooler.....
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:30 am
by mudlva
muskie wrote:any major drawbacks? fitting simex's so just wanted to know what to expect and other peoples opinions..it will be turboed.
nope apart from massive fuel consumption and get a big cooler for the trans as heat will kill it fast
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 11:57 am
by workin on it
has any 1 ever made the patrol auto manual shift am looking at doing this wen i sas the terrano. if its even posible ?
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 12:38 pm
by taz01
muskie wrote:thanks guys, yep concerns are all about the auto box, got the lift and clearance sorted, same as my last build...taz your tyres look wide as compared to my simex's.
yeah they are the 37x14.5x15 in the pic but will be using 35x10.5x15 in comps
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 3:58 pm
by juz
workin on it wrote:has any 1 ever made the patrol auto manual shift am looking at doing this wen i sas the terrano. if its even posible ?
Dano what the safari boxes are but Raddesigns who I got my trans controller from make one for the Nissan RE4R01A box.
http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Rail.html
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:15 pm
by workin on it
juz wrote:workin on it wrote:has any 1 ever made the patrol auto manual shift am looking at doing this wen i sas the terrano. if its even posible ?
Dano what the safari boxes are but Raddesigns who I got my trans controller from make one for the Nissan RE4R01A box.
http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Rail.html
awesome thanks ill look into that
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:34 pm
by darinz
It's been a while since I've been here but this sounds like a topic for me.
The GQ auto is plenty strong enough if you do a couple of things.
As was said above keep it cool is the key so fit the biggest cooler you can and bypass the factory one. The factory ones have a habit of getting blocked and that stops the oil getting to the gearset.
If you are going to run big hp (15+psi) then I'd suggest you get the torque converter rebuilt. Should only cost a few hundy and get extra weld on the spline.
As far as manual shift goes they are great. Forget the radesigns stuff as you can build your own to do the same thing for bugger all. That was what I did originally. The best option is to get a manual VB from Wholesale Automatics in Oz. Not cheap but they are amazing. I could flat shift mine on the rev limiter (7,000rpm) and it was extremely smooth. I wouldn't use a manual VB for a DD as they are very harsh at low rev / power due to not running acumulater piston springs.
With basically the above setup I ran 280rwkw through mine and never saw it over 80*. (apart from when the fans died)
I originally ran manual shift with TD42T (21psi I/C etc) and that was great. Maybe a little high geared for slow speed stuff but for WC etc it was great. I'm changing now to 4.88 diffs but that is more a fact that being able to do 180k's in low range is a little excessive!
Also the Radesigns system is completely electronic so doesn't provide engine breaking. To get engine breaking you need to shift the box hydraulically and electronically. What we do is use the factory inhibitor switch to control relays that switch the shift solenoids. Really simple so have a search on here and you'll find what you need.
If you just control the shift solenoids if will work fine with no damage but you don't get the positive control that you need when offroad.
Re: how compatable are 35"s with an auto on a GQ diesel
Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:19 am
by muskie
darinz wrote:It's been a while since I've been here but this sounds like a topic for me.
The GQ auto is plenty strong enough if you do a couple of things.
As was said above keep it cool is the key so fit the biggest cooler you can and bypass the factory one. The factory ones have a habit of getting blocked and that stops the oil getting to the gearset.
If you are going to run big hp (15+psi) then I'd suggest you get the torque converter rebuilt. Should only cost a few hundy and get extra weld on the spline.
As far as manual shift goes they are great. Forget the radesigns stuff as you can build your own to do the same thing for bugger all. That was what I did originally. The best option is to get a manual VB from Wholesale Automatics in Oz. Not cheap but they are amazing. I could flat shift mine on the rev limiter (7,000rpm) and it was extremely smooth. I wouldn't use a manual VB for a DD as they are very harsh at low rev / power due to not running acumulater piston springs.
With basically the above setup I ran 280rwkw through mine and never saw it over 80*. (apart from when the fans died)
I originally ran manual shift with TD42T (21psi I/C etc) and that was great. Maybe a little high geared for slow speed stuff but for WC etc it was great. I'm changing now to 4.88 diffs but that is more a fact that being able to do 180k's in low range is a little excessive!
Also the Radesigns system is completely electronic so doesn't provide engine breaking. To get engine breaking you need to shift the box hydraulically and electronically. What we do is use the factory inhibitor switch to control relays that switch the shift solenoids. Really simple so have a search on here and you'll find what you need.
If you just control the shift solenoids if will work fine with no damage but you don't get the positive control that you need when offroad.
thanks darin, hhhhmm maybe i will just chuck in my manual box, just fancied trying an auto for a change. i wouldnt be able to do everthing you suggest due to expense/time so manual conv is probably the way for me i have a complete kit on the garage floor. your usage will be completely different to mine.