Offroad-Express

may seem a bit random coming from me as I own an 80 already

but if I was to be looking at buying an 80 what should I be looking out for

please list your thoughts, cheers

p.s. 80 in question is a 92, 12 valve, auto, factory lockers, factory electric winch, 197000kms

p.s.s. if I was to buy it, what should I do to it fairly quickly

fire away folks

should get the lasted aussie 4x4 action mag has whole article on what to look out for

oljamesyboy wrote:should get the lasted aussie 4x4 action mag has whole article on what to look out for

you got an issue number dude ???

185

theres not much else to post on tonight and the girlie sites pretty quiet so without meaning to state the ovbious thats already commonly knowen:

big end bearings
chassis cracks around steering box
interior water leaking
electrical problems

quick run down of what it says

1. rear window rust on tailgate and 1/4 panel window and around seem around doors

2.steering linkages

3.heater core leaking

4.rusty rear brake calliper

apart from them just says about cooling system and head gaskets

goes into more detail tho

does this mean your 80 is going to be Tara's parts truck

Power steer reservoirs leak around spot welds. Bigest things I would be doing straight away after buying is bigend bearings, cambelt, good service.

Rust in lower firewall

sorry for threadjack but, was cruising down vogel street in palmy just before and saw a marroon over silver 2 tone jap import 80 on the side of the road for sale for what seemed to say $2k.

check the radiator has the fluid been flushed/changed regularly
has the auto fluid been flushed/changed every 40k
check the bushes, 4wd works? do the lockers work
does it have a sunroof? check for leaks
check bearings, hoses belts etc ie has it had regular services
check the accelerator thingy (xj's problem)
check underneath for loose bits, leaks etc

oil/fluid/grease/big ends/tran flush and new filter/check bearings/drains/new brake fluid and rebleed

remember it might have to go in N before you put it in low range (like your suzuki )

righto, ticked everything off the list when looking at it

now wish to know costs for big end bearings, trans cooler, flush and any other 'insurance' type of services you would give it after buying it

just a rough estimate on costs or what you have paid for these items

cheers

SKID

trans fluid 100 filter 100ish
the big spinny thingy in the trans wont drain itself apparantly

I insurered mine for 15,000 cost me $632 which is good. I also put a security system in as well.

skid wrote:righto, ticked everything off the list when looking at it

now wish to know costs for big end bearings, trans cooler, flush and any other 'insurance' type of services you would give it after buying it

just a rough estimate on costs or what you have paid for these items

cheers

SKID

Check the breather hoses especially the one to the centre diff lock motor...

Assuming the crank doesn't need any work, big ends are $70 for aftermarket, the rod bolts from toyota if you want to do them are $300 or Suzolla has a set for quite a bit less. Then just some, plastiguage, assembly grease and 3 bond. Also labour if you're getting someone else to do (or mates!)

i take it you would have to take the engine out to do them so labour would be the main cost also if the engine does need to come out to do it

you would look at the cost of full rebuild

also a question why suggest doing big ends are these trucks known for big end problems?

arnt they 1hz engines that are in all the other cruisers?

big ends : engine in (easy) mains engine out (hard)

Catch can.

haha!!

1justin wrote:i take it you would have to take the engine out to do them so labour would be the main cost also if the engine does need to come out to do it

you would look at the cost of full rebuild

also a question why suggest doing big ends are these trucks known for big end problems?

arnt they 1hz engines that are in all the other cruisers?

Big ends is only sump off so not a lot of labour (about 2 -3 hour job) I just did mine and it took about 5 hours cause I'm slow.

Big ends are probably the only real weakness of these engines. YOu see quite a few going cheap on Trademe that have run a bearing. Mine had them done at 200k with ACL's and I just redid them at 410k. The ACLs are pitted pretty good but the crank is all good.

So yeah, definitely do them if don't want a nice hole in your block Also, don't wreck the thread on your sump plug hole after just gluing the sump back on with 3 bond. That really sucks