Offroad-Express

HI

I am after a oil catch can for my 80 series. It has the common blue smog when idling along before its overpowered by the onslauught of unburnt diesel, more noticeable in low range.

I have had a look at a few on the markey but dont want one that vents to atmosphere, ideally one the same as DDAN's on his 1KZ.

If anyone knows of one and has a link to one purchisable online let me know, or if you know what DDANS got in his....

I've got one in mine. I don't thin they are that hard to find.



Mine used to smoke just on idle. But now that one of the injectors isn't stuck "on" (instead or pulsing) and the stuffed values on that cylinder are replaced, it hardly smokes at all! And there's a small increase of torque.

Looks good pete, I found a few like yours in auto parts stores, but i'm after a sealed unit!

No point having a snorkel with that 'venting' into your engine bay if your driving under water...

mumbls wrote:Looks good pete, I found a few like yours in auto parts stores, but i'm after a sealed unit!

No point having a snorkel with that 'venting' into your engine bay if your driving under water...

just a thought but as these are "catching" oil they must need to vent somehow otherwise there is nowhere for the air displaced by the oil to go??

or am i wrong in thinking this?

Maybe i'm wrong but this is how i see it

Ive got my temporary coke bottle 'catch can' plumed into the vent hole on the side of rocker cover. It spits out a bit of fumey oil, which collects in the bottle. Fumes escape through some breather slits. Rough as fuk but stopped it smoking.
Ive bunged the intake side off.

I want a sealed catch can [similar to a moisture trap on a air line] that doesnt vent to atmosphere. Just being paranoid but I dont want to run the chance of driving in to deep, having catch can fill up with water an get sucked straight into turbo...

I also dont like the fumey smell that wafts about, so ill plumb it back into the intake an it will either cycle or get burnt

So if youve got one, or know where i can get one, one that i dont have to get modified.... let me know.
Or if ive got it all wrong. also let me know.
or if your under ddans bonnet get a photo of his...

If its sealed then you will end up with excessive crankcase pressure.you could get a large one and put it between the breather and to the intake so effectively its sealed from the outside. Make sure the catch can you get has something in it to help seperate the oil from the air otherwise its pointless. In the past i have stuffed them with steel wool which worked really well.

IMO, stay away from the cheap "catch cans". You want something to seperate the oil, which most don't do.
There is a big difference between the cheap models that simply have an inlet/outlet, and those like a CKD model, that actually seperate the oil from the air (coalescing type)

Did a little search on images for catch cans.

tow99 wrote:If its sealed then you will end up with excessive crankcase pressure.you could get a large one and put it between the breather and to the intake so effectively its sealed from the outside. Make sure the catch can you get has something in it to help seperate the oil from the air otherwise its pointless. In the past i have stuffed them with steel wool which worked really well.

They come sealed from the factory (the car)
It is most catch cans that aren't sealed

Pete has put up a photo of one, dan might to...

Hate to tell you guys this, but your wasting your time with catch cans to stop the blue smoke.

It is the injectors that are at fault.

Not going to get into the blue/black smoke debate. We are all Internet forum experts when it comes to that.

You early direct injection motors such as your 1HDT, 300TDI etc have a two stage injector.

At idle and just above, the first stage and lower pressure stage of the injector is operating. The burst pressure is something like 2 atmospheres.

As all of our motors have done a billion k's, and our fuel is of a lower grade than they were spec'd for in Japan/ Europe, the injectors on these motors are performing poorly.

The issue is mainly with the tips, at the lower Idle Burst pressure the worn out tips don't atomise the fuel correctly, and dribble the fuel in.

You get a cold incomplete burn that makes a smelly eye stinging deep blue smoke.

Get your injectors serviced with new tips and the pressures reclibrated and the blue smoke will be gone and the fuel economy and performance increased.

DieselBoy wrote:Get your injectors serviced with new tips and the pressures reclibrated and the blue smoke will be gone and the fuel economy and performance increased.

Don't ,"hate to tell you". Personally I appreciate reading other peoples angles on things. And yours seems to be straight up.
The only reason I wanted a catch can was to increase the performance, be it ever so slightly. I know with petrol engines having a catch can increases the octane, more to the point, adding oil to the intake decreased it.
Taking about the fumes that did come from my motor before the faulty injector was replaced? Generally it would smoke (black) off the line and when the foot was flat towing up a hill. But since the injectors are sorted it hardly smokes at all and it's got a little more pep.

Didn't read close enough for the reason being to get rid of the blue smoke. One thing I found with mine, still had the same smoke (albeit less) after forking out $1300 on the injectors . No improvement on either the performance or economy, so assume there was something else wrong (and 3 tips were farked )

DaveM wrote:Didn't read close enough for the reason being to get rid of the blue smoke. One thing I found with mine, still had the same smoke (albeit less) after forking out $1300 on the injectors . No improvement on either the performance or economy, so assume there was something else wrong (and 3 tips were farked )

Could be that the pump was most probably also worn and was out of spec in that case.

I would say that any improvment in idle smoke from doing injectors proves my point that it is the area to invest in rather than blowby oil control.

This is interesting because I got my pump and injectors done and it still smoked but put the catch can on and now its better.

ClassicCruiserSpares wrote:This is interesting because I got my pump and injectors done and it still smoked but put the catch can on and now its better.

Haha, someone had to say that

Just a Toyota thing. Same symptoms, 4 different possible fixes
Catch can is cheapest to see if it works I guess, unless there are other issues that would warrant spending the money on injectors?

The reason I put one on my truck was. That with the methanol doin a great job of cleaning 20 years of crap out of the engine. I'd like to keep it that way clean

while it may not fix your problem, a catch can is still a good idea.
the oil causes a few other problems.

in my experience blue smoke doesn't come from oil via the breather. if it was enough oil to make the smoke you would notice the engine running on and generally being uncontrollable.

DDAN wrote:The reason I put one on my truck was. That with the methanol doin a great job of cleaning 20 years of crap out of the engine. I'd like to keep it that way clean

Why put the extra oil back in the system I say. What use does that have?

Totally agree. I've got a CKD unit coming from oz, even though the TD42 is n/a at the moment

DaveM wrote:Totally agree. I've got a CKD unit coming from oz, even though the TD42 is n/a at the moment

Looking at those CKD units makes me think I have a cheap as chips catch can on my 1HD-T engine I just recently spent $3000+ on. I was told, if i take it off road in the deep stuff, i should replace the filter with a bung. What the hell??

petefj40 wrote:

DaveM wrote:Looking at those CKD units makes me think I have a cheap as chip catch can on my 1HD-T engine I just spent $3000+ on. I was told, if i take it off road in deep stuff i should replace the filter with a bung. What the hell??

I've run cheaper versions in the past, didn't even realise there was a difference in how they worked. Mine did improve by using steel wool inside, caught a little more, but big difference with a CKD, which I put on the old turbo Safari (should have taken it off when I sold it)

How does the crankcase ventilation work in these motors? – in a petrol engine there is normally a pipe from the air cleaner to the crankcase, and another from the pcv valve to the intake manifold. Therefore there is a path for air to flow. With these diesel engines there seems to be only a pipe from the cam cover to the suction side of the turbo. So how does the air get in so that the fumes can be exhausted?

kow1 wrote:How does the crankcase ventilation work in these motors? – in a petrol engine there is normally a pipe from the air cleaner to the crankcase, and another from the pcv valve to the intake manifold. Therefore there is a path for air to flow. With these diesel engines there seems to be only a pipe from the cam cover to the suction side of the turbo. So how does the air get in so that the fumes can be exhausted?

Google

ClassicCruiserSpares wrote:This is interesting because I got my pump and injectors done and it still smoked but put the catch can on and now its better.

+1 mine was like $3200 or something new pump & injectors ouch & still at night sitting at a red light Im glad Im not sitting behing my fumey old million dollar 80 lol

Think this might be the Xmas idea http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=18549

Oil / Air seperator

mumbls - dont worry about it nigs.. just drive the hell out of the thing..

its turbo lube and exhaust anti corrosion agent.

zephyrheaven wrote:Think this might be the Xmas idea http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=18549

Oil / Air seperator

are these available here?

i had pump redone, still rattled, still had smoke waff at idle yada yada.... ran a homer catch can, no real difference... new injectors, redid the pump timing and violia! totally new beast....way more power/economy/nil waffing smoke (still blew on full boost due to lots of fuel haha!!!!) as for the breather, i ran a long (ie LONG) lenght of hose down under the chassis to about the B pillar to vent any oil/gasses/fumes... worked a treat! (maybe could have put a little filter on the end of it but meh, it worked and it was cheap...) and as for water, well i drove my 80 into the biggest holes for shit and giggles (water flowing over bonnet, both upstream and downstream) and due to the low location of the exit of the breather never had an issue with h20 getting back up into intake

Cheers for all the very helpful advice but, I want a sealed catch can, suitable for 4wdriving, not opinions on whether they are needed! If anyone has links to ones they have installed themselves, shops done for them, post on up. If you want to discuss the merits of cans or blue black smoke injector recon, pump timing, fuel aneroid adjustments, then hit the new thread button.

I'm quite interested in others tweaks to the IP, I will start a new thread for that, I have found a wealth of information about tweaking the IP, schematics, diagrams, how to's, but none on here. Input of tweaks you have done very welcome, for this thread lets keep it to catch cans youve had installed, seen etc.

Ask for advice on the internet and your going to get peoples opinions

there is no such thing as a sealed oil /air separator .
the Air has to go some where! either back into the intake or vented to atmosphere ... Other wise you will create excessive crank case pressure and blow out the front or rear end seals ....
Alot of people have had this issue when fitting cheap aftermarket catch cans to 1KZ engines , the volume of air flow through the separator is not sufficient causing to much back pressure in the crank case ....