Offroad-Express

hi there heads gaskets gone as per usual it seems, so will be pulling it out for a full rebuild if parts arnt going to be to much

im in christchurch

its in a kzn185 surf

first question can you do head without taking out, just incase i want to take the cheap option,

and 2, wheres some good places to get gasket sets rings and bearings
will go to toyota for head gasket as that seems the recommendation from the other threads I've read, also any engine conditioners that specialize in these engines for honing, polishing and checking out the head or any you would recommend

and i saw some comments about a manual diesel pump is a good thing for these is this just to get rid of some electronics in the truck? or tuning yaself? anyone one got one to suit this engine, or know of someone selling one?

il start another thread to ask about these things but see if anyone that reads this can help, trans coolers for these are these something you get off another truck or is this just those coolers you buy off trade me and redirect the pipes from the trans to it

whilst you are there remove EGR system if its there, fit a bigger turbo dump pipe as well

ok anyone got a link to a good guide for removing the egr system, also the exghust housing on the turbo looks really small guess thats cause its a diesel and why it has no spooling problems is there any recommendations for using a different turbo or is that one fine, yea will sort out a bigger dump pipe, just brought a lil tig welder so will be a good thing to test it out on

EGR removal is a bit of a pain but if you're taking off the head then it should be no worries at all.

Here is a guide to doing it, not super clear but you get the idea.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/egr.htm

Dump pipe is definitely a good idea on these, I had a couple of KZN185's, one of them on 33's and that one in particular was quite bad at getting warm, I put a front mount intercooler on it, removed the egr, put an extra trans cooler in it (fron a another vehicle - but it ran inline with the factory one in the bottom of the radiator, not sure if it helped a huge amount) and also put an exhaust from the cat back, it still struggled with temps a bit going up the likes of Mt Hutt access road, had to go in low 4 to get up there without over heating.

1justin wrote:hi there heads gaskets gone as per usual it seems, so will be pulling it out for a full rebuild if parts arnt going to be to much

wouldnt it be worth popping the head off first and getting it tested before you make too many assumptions and plan too far ahead?

cool thanks for that,

yea i want to get 33's so looks like i will have to do all that to then, what mods did you have to do to fit 33's did you run factory rims or after market, if aftermarket what offset where they

i just brought it as a road cross over 4 wd vechile probly should have brought a land cruiser more i look into the more they look like the engine hasnt been designed properly to deal with the heat, oh well least i get the nice look and comfort of the surf,

its done 350ks so i think it will be about due for a rebuild so while im there may as well do it

why does no one seem to like ifs for 4wding, is it to do with the flex i wont be doing any extreme 4wding in it so i dont think i need anyhting better than a surf,

Lexus V8 , you won't regret it !! That's what I plan to do if My 1KZ-TE starts giving me troubles...

yea i was thinking about that but also i like the idea of getting a manual pump and getting rid of eletircs for the engine,

can you put a 1hz the 4.2 liter cruiser engine in these?

guessing theres not enough room and they don't bolt up to the gearbox

1justin wrote:
why does no one seem to like ifs for 4wding, is it to do with the flex i wont be doing any extreme 4wding in it so i dont think i need anyhting better than a surf,

flex is one reason but strength is another one
to lift ifs you end up putting alot of extra strain on your cv joints as they are at a steeper angle and will wear out much faster whereas with a solid axle vehicle you can lift it without anywhere near as much strain on the driveline.

Keep it 1kz powered see if you can get and exchange rebuild one with a warranty. There is a company in nz doing them i just can't remember the name of them.

I just did the head on the wife's Prado (1kz) Bought a rebuild head (genuine Toyota), waterpump, t belt etc. all up came to about $1700 for parts.That was through Ilam Toymota

thanks for that i should have the engine out and striped down tomorrow so can see if the head is alright or not.

sta parts in auckland are good for bearings rings seals etc the bearings they sell are acl which have a good reputation. they would have a complete rebuild kit available.

got the head off, has cracks in the precombustion chamber but no where else dont know if these can be replaced or not

having some trouble getting the main crank bolt out, bent a pry bar i had in at the other end as a wedge dam engines

so need a really powerfull elctric rattle gun and give that a go i guess

also the head is aftermarket a acme brand so guess there not very good

theres lots of sludge in the water but not certain its the head so will have to get the turbo checked as well

.also looking for a new ally radiator for a auto if anyone knows where to get one, theres one on trademe but its for a manual 42mm thick, or does anyone know if using a manual radiator plus a oil cooler for trans is ok,

a little worried that the oil cooler would make it to cold since i wont be able to put through the radiator afterwards

Wouldn't recommend using an aftermarket head. We have seen some very nasty results due to very poor castings/build quality. Genuine head is usually cheaper as well.

The most usual place for a kz head to crack is in the intake ports.

If the cooling system is sludged up it will need a thorough clean out or you'll be doing another head next week.
Is it oil sludge? or just scale/crap from lack of cooling system servicing?

To get the crank bolt undone you need an impact tool like this
http://www.qualitytools.co.nz/crankshaf ... -1622.html
(don't worry Repco or BNT are way cheaper)

Best to use a manual radiator and an aftermarket trans cooler.
The auto have a cooler in the bottom tank that creates too much restriction and can cause issues.

While you have it all apart, delete the EGR system (there's a thread on here that tells you how to do it) and put a EGT gauge in before the turbo.

1justin wrote:
.also looking for a new ally radiator for a auto if anyone knows where to get one, theres one on trademe but its for a manual 42mm thick, or does anyone know if using a manual radiator plus a oil cooler for trans is ok,

a little worried that the oil cooler would make it to cold since i wont be able to put through the radiator afterwards

make sure you get the biggest you can (V8), towing and soft sand is a killer on autos

ok so they do produce a fair bit of heat when loaded, i will just go for a rad with it in the bottom so i dont end up %ucking my trans from to hot or cold oil

then add a oil cooler before it runs through the trans to help out

do they have a pump to circulate the fluid or is it just (thermo siphon)

1justin wrote:ok so they do produce a fair bit of heat when loaded, i will just go for a rad with it in the bottom so i dont end up %ucking my trans from to hot or cold oil

then add a oil cooler before it runs through the trans to help out

do they have a pump to circulate the fluid or is it just (thermo siphon)

You won't f%&k your trans with an aftermarket cooler. Probably make it last longer.
The trans has an oil pump in it.
Definately go for a manual radiator.

Your idea is correct, i.e. the trans fluid needs to be at a certain temp for it to operate correctly. Trans-aftermarket trans cooler-radiator-trans.

It may not get into top gear as soon from first starting, but if you do any towing or 4wding it pays to delete the radiator cooler altogether and just use the aftermarket cooler. It won't damage or make the trans run any worse.
In fact, it may very well help with the longevity of the transmission.

Plus then you can get rid of the huge restriction in the bottom of the radiator and fit a manual bottom tank (or complete radiator).

Why? That would be like taking the thermostat out, it would run cooler,sure, but it doesn't make it a good idea I would leave the factory cooler/warmer in the system, it's there for a reason.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 953462.htm

this is the only full alloy one on trademe and they don't have them in auto

was thinking mayby i could weld a pipe to the outside of the bottom tank, or just drill a hole in each side of the bottom tank then push a pipe through and weld up the ends to use after the external cooler and shouldn't get into the way of the outlet to much

so can go through the oil cooler then if its to cold after that will cool down the radiator even more as the radiator brings it up to temp, or if its still to hot after the oil cooler will cool it down to the right temp.

head and blocks at the shop now getting checked out,

also would like to get a turbo that bolts up, with a bigger exghust housing the one on it at the mo spools well, but one that flows better would probably be good for keeping temps down that much oxygen getting jamed into that smaller intake on that exghust houseing must push up temps,

so if i got more power out of it think would push that turbo to far so would be a good first upgrade i think

plus a manual pump

there a rebuilt block on trade me from a 1996 granvia dos anyone know if there the same as surf ones by the looks of it,

think the guy was saying that the valve length changed at around 2001 so i think they are the same

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =514645723

the heads alright tho apparently the seals from casting where leaking

top of the block has pitting from water rust so quoted 480 just for machining work and the block on trade me is 1k so seems easier at least

was a reregistered surf for sale in christchurch today for 1500 was tempting manual kzn130 but should just stick with rebuilding so i don't have to worry bout it for a while

finally got it going last weekend cheers to mudbugga for helping me figure out what i needed to get to do the job.

pretty busy and got to put a good 1000 ks on it before i get it into the mud so hopefully in the next couple weeks

got 33s and a bar and winch for it so should help to, got rid of the egr and a new radiator to