Offroad-Express

Hi everyone, relatively new to this so I will start with the basics:

I recently bought a (cheap) 1996 Prado 1KZ-TE, SWB, Auto, 329kms, but with a mild knock that seemed to eminate from the block. After doing a bit of research I decided to eliminate the fuel system first, before pulling the entire engine apart and fix whatever is wrong mechanically. A friend of mine has an ultra sonic bath at his work so I whipped out the injectors and he game them a good cleaning.

I assembled the injectors with new washers, and checked all plugs/lines etc. I came to fire it up, and she kicked for a second and then ran up. At idle is now sits at around 1500rpm, and when I try to give it some gas there is NO change in engine speed. The knock is still present, and possibly even louder. The video shows there is no excess smoke, and it normally only puts out a little excess black smoke under load. When I open the throttle I can hear the induction noise, but zero change in speed which leads me to believe it is a fuel issue. I dont know much about these engines, but have read that the injection pump has a small filter on its inlet? Also I have read there is a timming control valve that might cause a knock, but this shouldnt have changed just from cleaning the injectors right?

Can someone help me? I took a video showing the state of the engine, and how it reacts etc to throttle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02AtKNwUiDs&feature=plcp

Thanks!!

Forgot to add, it now has the "check Engine" light coming up, which wasnt present before I pulled the injectors.

I havent tried jumping the connectors for the code yet. Which pins am I meant to bridge?

Cheers

John

Man that sounds terrible.....
These electronic pumps are controlled by an ECU.
No physical connection to the pump.
I cannot understand why its not revving unless the TPS sensor is not connected properly. Or some other sensor.
Go over all things that were disturbed during the injector clean / swap.

The noise could be a fault where the bolts which hold on a gear in the front cover start to get loose and or shear off.

Deff sounds like the revving issue is something you may have done in while pulling the fuel system apart. Like KBUSHNZ said TPS or even a plug on the pump? I have my motor out at the moment (1kz-te) so if you need any resistor readings from the pump etc PM me.

Cheers

Make sure the injection pipes are correct it is possible to get the firing order wrong.

HAS BEEN DONE BEFORE,

FITZY.

Hey guys,

Thanks for all your comments-very helpful! I did as instructed and went through all the connections of what I had touched. I noticed the TPS plug wasnt 100% clipped on, and gave it a little push-'click'. Whilst I was at it, I decided to change the fuel filter, and check the timming marks on the belt. Everything lines up, and the belt+tensioner actually look fairly new. Here is a question-how much play should an idler have? I gave mine a little tug and it seemed to give a little rock when using a bit of grip-is this normal?

Put it all back together, and hey presto she goes as she should!! Responds to throttle no problem, but my clatter is still there. I fear it could well be a bottom end bearing or mains. Plan is to take it to the guys at ALLTECH turbo in Glenfield who should be able to diagnose between a fuel or mechanical fault fairly quickly....fingers crossed anyway.

Anyone know of a reasonably price for rebuilds? I know a group in wellys that do a complete rebuild with 1 year warranty for about $3800. Are there any respectable, well priced reconditioners that have a rep for rebuilding these engines? Am tempted to pull it out myself and rebuild the bottom end. Anything I should really look out for whilst doing it?

Plan to do a new 3 core radiator whilst Im at it, to help reduce risk of head cracking.

Cant wait to get this truck on the road-has been sitting in the drive for nearly 3 months taunting me!!

Thanks again for your help!

John

remove egr system, fit a dump pipe and a bigger exhaust (i had a 3" on my 96 lwb), radiator should be ok as is ... give it a flush and replace with new fluid

thats crazy how it didn't rev at all,

its a very hollow sounding clank like a hydraulic tappet on a nissan when there gone, but guess would be hard for someone to tell unless they hear it in person

use a stethoscope mite help to get a general indication where its coming from can use a screw driver put your ear on the handle or think ya can buy mechanic ones from repco or a place like that, or easiest way would be to ask a mechanic

i have the same sort of thread going in the forum have just taken my head off id say sell its and buy something that dosnt have a 1kz haha

am also looking for a radiator, there a few threads on the australian hiluxs surf owners forum they suggest bigger alloy rad 76 degree thermostat and 80 series fan blade on the viscous coupling to help out the system

from what i have read no one seems to know quite why some of them suffer failure but just seems to be a poorly designed cooling system that one thing or many are not up to the task of cooling them under high load

A lot of you guys just don't get it , unless there is something seriously wrong with your cooling system, it is not the reason for your over heating. Your engine is cooking from the inside. I have stated many a time , fit an EGT gauge pre turbo and drive by it, you will find that under load you can easily make 800 to 900 + deg C and that is sufficient to F--K any Head/Motor.

WHY DO I BOTHER,

FITZY.

SMOKEY wrote:A lot of you guys just don't get it , unless there is something seriously wrong with your cooling system, it is not the reason for your over heating. Your engine is cooking from the inside. I have stated many a time , fit an EGT gauge pre turbo and drive by it, you will find that under load you can easily make 800 to 900 + deg C and that is sufficient to F--K any Head/Motor.

WHY DO I BOTHER,

FITZY.

Gee Fitzy, just coz you know what you're talking about...

Hmmmmm, thanks for all the comments guys. Truck has sat in driveway for the last few weeks...looking awfully sad. Once I have had my wedding (and subsequent payment of said wedding!) I will look into the engine rebuild/replacement. Until then, I will keep scolling for ideas etc. Fitsy, you seem to have a world of knowledge in that head-I might pick it as some point in the near future!!

Regards,

John

ok then how do you lower egts in a 1kz

1justin wrote:ok then how do you lower egts in a 1kz

Free flow exhaust, especially dump pipe.
Bit more boost , Intercooler...
Dont push up the fuel too much...And or boost pressure..

sounds like a broken valve spring to me.