Spray Paint

[cbfb]

Truck has a bit of rust on it, just some bodywork and on the barwork. Nothing major, surface really, no welding that I can see yet.

Anyway, started attacking it with rattle cans but it's gonna end up farking expensive and the quality is not amazing.

Wondered if I'm better of using my compressor? It's a cheaper one, not bottom of the range but not brilliant. Got a cheapo spray gun.

Thing is I can't afford to get it done professionally so I'd rather have an average touch-up job than a rusty truck (which left like that would become no truck).

Can't afford to buy any fancy pants $300 spray guns either, or compressor.

So am I better sticking with the rattle cans, or should I try the gun?

If it's the gun, what the fark do you put in it? Was looking at spraystore.co.nz and don't have a bloody clue what it all means. I just want rust coverter, primer, white & black paint, then a clear on top. You'd think it would be easy.

Any advice much appreciated, especially on the paints. Specific products would be awesome. I really know bugger all about this but would like to learn.

[rokhound]

Go and talk to your paint supplier. You could also ask around to see if there are nay backyard auto painters in your area. You might be surprised how cheap it is, especially if you do the prep and sanding.

[suzolla]

Why not use a brush for the first coats, can work it in to all the knooks and cranies then after sanding spray the final top coat.
And yes, better to vist a paint shop for good advice.
Cheers
Tim

[3VILC]

I'll be honest, I painted one of my old cars with a spray gun..and if you havent done it before its not easy and I was only using a premix gloss black that came out looking matte and patchy as lol. If your a better painter than me you might have more luck Have seen some real good backyard jobs that come out mint without even buffing. My truck I just used a roller and cheap matte paint, came out textured but even covering not patchy which was how it was intended to look being army green (now has custom 'camo' dirt stains )

[cbfb]

Go and talk to your paint supplier. You could also ask around to see if there are nay backyard auto painters in your area. You might be surprised how cheap it is, especially if you do the prep and sanding.

Yeah the bigger paint shop in town didn't want to know, said they were too busy! Fair enough I guess they get that sort of shit all the time.

I do kind of want to do it myself though. Half the fun of 4wding is learning new stuff.

Why not use a brush for the first coats, can work it in to all the knooks and cranies then after sanding spray the final top coat.
And yes, better to vist a paint shop for good advice.
Cheers
Tim

I did look at the POR15 paints which are brush-on but it's too expensive. Do you know what primers are brushable? That would definitely work.

I'll be honest, I painted one of my old cars with a spray gun..and if you havent done it before its not easy and I was only using a premix gloss black that came out looking matte and patchy as lol. If your a better painter than me you might have more luck Have seen some real good backyard jobs that come out mint without even buffing. My truck I just used a roller and cheap matte paint, came out textured but even covering not patchy which was how it was intended to look being army green (now has custom 'camo' dirt stains )

Yeah I've seen rattle gun jobs that looked good enough, guess there's a skill to it! I thought about going for a matte green but would mean a total respray instead of just a touch-up. If all else fails, might go down that route. Seen a few trucks painted with truck bed paint that look mean.

[tweake]

i'v done some painting with a cheap compressor and spray gun.
the biggest thing is getting the paint/thinner mix right and getting the spray gun settings right.
once that was done its fairly easy to get an ok paint job. not flash but dirt hides it well enough.

[williamhamilton]

Chris, I have a couple of decent guns - if you make it to Carterton you can borrow one instead of forking out for a new one.

W

[3VILC]

Yeah I've seen rattle gun jobs that looked good enough, guess there's a skill to it! I thought about going for a matte green but would mean a total respray instead of just a touch-up. If all else fails, might go down that route. Seen a few trucks painted with truck bed paint that look mean.

I did mine super cheap and nasty and actually turned out alrite, only cost me about $60 including the roller and sanding blocks Chalkboard paint Its cheap, very scratch resistant, and seems to stick well to prepared metal. I used a fluffy type roller as I inteded it to have a slightly rough textured finish, but using a foam roller you could probably get quite a nice finish. I mixed black and green together to make a more army like dark green. I just gave it a good sand back as was painted with god knows how many different types of flat and gloss paints by previous owner, touched up the chips and scratches, primed them and resanded where needed, then just rolled on a couple of coats. Its been on a while now and has had a few good hidings and isnt peeling or flaking anywhere. Sure the scratch marks from trees stay there, and the mud leaves a ghost stain, but thats the whole idea I remember washing, scratch-x'ing and buffing my last truck, and it still looked like shi*e so gloss is no use hehe

[juz]

Try a small panelshop, usually some beaters give a bit of painting a go. Be cheaper and most big shops will just over price a job like that so they dont have to do it. If you do it yourself go to a paint supply shop and talk to them and tell them your budget. They still make some roll on 2k primers, just sucks sanding out the peel/brush marks. If you just want a cheap easy to spray shiney paint, quick dry enamel is what you want. If you want hard wearing paint a black or white 2k is cheap or base coat with 2k clear coat is whats on all late model cars but costs a bit more. If your painting over parts that youve spray canned, be carefull it could well fry up.

[cbfb]

i'v done some painting with a cheap compressor and spray gun.
the biggest thing is getting the paint/thinner mix right and getting the spray gun settings right.
once that was done its fairly easy to get an ok paint job. not flash but dirt hides it well enough.

Yeah that's what I found with my attempts so far. Did you use an inline filter? I don't have one of those and wondered if it would make a difference.

Chris, I have a couple of decent guns - if you make it to Carterton you can borrow one instead of forking out for a new one.

W

Hi thanks, very kind offer. I'll see how I go with mine and if it really sucks I might take you up on that. At least it would be good to trial a good one before I go and buy one (just thinking it could be operator more than the equipment!)

I did mine super cheap and nasty and actually turned out alrite, only cost me about $60 including the roller and sanding blocks Chalkboard paint Its cheap, very scratch resistant, and seems to stick well to prepared metal. I used a fluffy type roller as I inteded it to have a slightly rough textured finish, but using a foam roller you could probably get quite a nice finish. I mixed black and green together to make a more army like dark green. I just gave it a good sand back as was painted with god knows how many different types of flat and gloss paints by previous owner, touched up the chips and scratches, primed them and resanded where needed, then just rolled on a couple of coats. Its been on a while now and has had a few good hidings and isnt peeling or flaking anywhere. Sure the scratch marks from trees stay there, and the mud leaves a ghost stain, but thats the whole idea I remember washing, scratch-x'ing and buffing my last truck, and it still looked like shi*e so gloss is no use hehe

That's a neat idea, will look into it if I go for a full re-spray. Using chalkboard paint might be a bit dangerous though, god knows what messages would end up on there

Try a small panelshop, usually some beaters give a bit of painting a go. Be cheaper and most big shops will just over price a job like that so they dont have to do it. If you do it yourself go to a paint supply shop and talk to them and tell them your budget. They still make some roll on 2k primers, just sucks sanding out the peel/brush marks. If you just want a cheap easy to spray shiney paint, quick dry enamel is what you want. If you want hard wearing paint a black or white 2k is cheap or base coat with 2k clear coat is whats on all late model cars but costs a bit more. If your painting over parts that youve spray canned, be carefull it could well fry up.

Yeah I am gonna do it myself but thanks for the paint info, very useful. I think probably the quick dry enamel might be the one. I don't plan to paint it then leave it for 10 years, it's probably going to be more of a continual operation with scratches and damage etc. So the durability isn't so important as the price and how hard it is to do without looking shite.

[rotordogg]

Will talk you through a few things on sunday, Done a bit of painting in the old factory but don't have access to the gear anymore...

[cbfb]

Will talk you through a few things on sunday, Done a bit of painting in the old factory but don't have access to the gear anymore...

Yeah I remember you had some spray guns... yep will have a chat about it, would be easier having the truck there too so I can show you what I'm doing

[tweake]

i'v done some painting with a cheap compressor and spray gun.
the biggest thing is getting the paint/thinner mix right and getting the spray gun settings right.
once that was done its fairly easy to get an ok paint job. not flash but dirt hides it well enough.

Yeah that's what I found with my attempts so far. Did you use an inline filter? I don't have one of those and wondered if it would make a difference.

don't think it had one on it.
water is not a big issue unless you have high humidity.

[tafftunk]

If you get really stuck I can lend a hand if you like I'm a car painter by trade and do small perks for few people round Hawkes bay just for beers lol I've also got all the gear to pm me if your keen

[Dirtydog]

i used the killrust brand and its stayed on the truck for the last 3-4 years just fine, looks alright and not patchy.

They dont need a primer for them, but i just sanded back the paint, bogged any dents that i couldnt pull out and sprayed it on, not hard to apply.

i think you mix it 9 parts paint to 1 part turps to spray it, i used a $50 gun and it worked a treat.

I had a large fan and overlapped 50% each pass, sprayed on thinly with 3 coats, didnt get any runs or anything, doesnt look patchy (apart from where i touched up a few areas from scratchs with a spray can later on lol)

just remember that when you making a pass, stop the paint flow once you get to the end, dont hold it down otherwise you get runs, Have a look on youtube for tips and tricks, 30 mins reasearching on there is better than a 10min screwup and 2 hr fixing.

[CLUMZ1]

agree with above poster, amazing what a bit of googling on bing will uncover!

http://www.diy-car-painting.com/

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-Y ... Rustoleum/

http://www.autobody101.com/content/

[cbfb]

If you get really stuck I can lend a hand if you like I'm a car painter by trade and do small perks for few people round Hawkes bay just for beers lol I've also got all the gear to pm me if your keen

Thanks, not ready to admit defeat yet but will bear it in mind if things really go tits up.

i used the killrust brand and its stayed on the truck for the last 3-4 years just fine, looks alright and not patchy.

They dont need a primer for them, but i just sanded back the paint, bogged any dents that i couldnt pull out and sprayed it on, not hard to apply.

i think you mix it 9 parts paint to 1 part turps to spray it, i used a $50 gun and it worked a treat.

I had a large fan and overlapped 50% each pass, sprayed on thinly with 3 coats, didnt get any runs or anything, doesnt look patchy (apart from where i touched up a few areas from scratchs with a spray can later on lol)

just remember that when you making a pass, stop the paint flow once you get to the end, dont hold it down otherwise you get runs, Have a look on youtube for tips and tricks, 30 mins reasearching on there is better than a 10min screwup and 2 hr fixing.

What did you use the fan for, just pointing at the panel you're spraying?

agree with above poster, amazing what a bit of googling on bing will uncover!

http://www.diy-car-painting.com/

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-Y ... Rustoleum/

http://www.autobody101.com/content/

Thanks, the mig welding one is an awesome site I go on there quite a lot. Problem is there's some dodgy stuff on Google too, I'd always rather talk to people who have done it themselves!

[Dirtydog]

fan as in when the paint comes out the gun, in the fan shape, rather than the round shape.

couldnt think of what its called earlier, but the spray pattern.