Offroad-Express

so after my first landie 16years ago, i decided it was time for another.
enter this preloved but recently neglected example




its fairly tidy but has been attacked by a bog artist at some stage,
mamuku 4x4 kindly let me cut a cage off another 88 they had there and a roof basket was at the local scrappy all these will get added once i sort the rear xmember and spring hangers out

Like that centre console.

yeah its pretty sweet really, the chap that put in the yards has even hooked up headset jacks etc, it is a little loud on the open road?
and upholstered near everything.
on the look out for parabolic springs if anyone knows of any second hand

hells yeah headphone jacks is a nice touch!
hope you get it sorted as.

cam here from o/s btw

yeah we have an ld28 turbo paj here too so will likely turbo this once i sort third gear into holding

so a little progress today,
removed newspaper from back x member so I could the undo back accessories,
cleaned my series 3 box and put my beatup truck cab on it.
and somehow the wirings playing ball I now have headlights and indicators since I removed the other roof


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and a pic as updates less pics are a bit lame

new gearbox picked up of the mq safari variety, 4 spd with side slung transfer box (looking for l28 bellhousing to suit).

little intercooler that will be boxed/ducted to the drivers side snorkel with a bilge blower inline to supply some puff when moving slowly, vented out the bonnet from the centre of the spare wheel.

chassis repairs before the new rear x member slots in


coming together slowly between shifts, also go new tank to sit in the tray and some paj seat bases to add for extra comfort

After the weekend I can recommend those skyline seats they were a bit of a mission to fit but with them my back lasted alot longer than I thought and they have enough bucket to catch your bum without being uncomfortable

Cool to see what your up to.....

I've PM'd you about the spring

i'm going to try go narrower JAZ do a plastic lowback bucket seat with a dome on cover so I can make the interior fairly washable, the paj seat bases will add some comfort.
I do have some momo buckets as well but they're a pain to get in and out of (far better suited to the paj with no doors)

ok now heres something to consider,
i'm changing to cruiser or mq safari diffs ,
I especially like leaf springs as they are simple but do not offer variable spring rate what so ever.
Something I'd probably run by Reece is this.
retain one heavyish single leaf that locates the diff but does not support the trucks weight entirely then run airbags at each corner so that ride height spring rate are all adjustable.
pinion angle would be the next consideration so a central ladder bar (gq safari trailing arm?) to makes sure the ujs don't bind on the rear and same as factory gq fitment for the front.
I say airbags as they could be paired front and rear via an airline to level the ground out in places where the body remains relatively level or locked out individually to apply more pressure to either side for sidlings and the like.
or if i'm going to this trouble do I just just set up front and rear like a gq front end and put an airbag on each corner/ forget the leaves.

I may have answered my own question?

keep it simple stupid (me) springover factory leaves cruiser diffs.

4link it if you're going to go bags. probably not a huge amount more work to get a well sorted result.

chuck a set of parabolics at the front and a fairly minimalistic rear set with helper bags for those big load times??

slidenyo wrote:keep it simple stupid (me) springover factory leaves cruiser diffs.

Do you really want that much height though? Low is good.

spring over on std springs is only going to be a 100mm lift once I pull leaves out etc and modify the packs to flex a bit.
I've got that in bodylift alone on the paj not to mention those 8.25 sats are the same height as the 35's and I plan to improve the turning circle clearing guards an fenders is an issue

have you considered 4 link rear and SOA up front?
My thought process started at SOA front and rear then after doing some reading on pirate and ih8mud i decided on 4 link rear and SOA front and then everything got a little out of hand as people have seen in my build thread.

nice to see another series build.

cheers

i'll just keep it simple for now I reckon so I can get it back going,
I have to finish some toys before me an the wife have kids so that I can keep them a tool for every job I reckon...

went to Auckland yesterday and was privy to some great Auckland traffic
towing the tin opener (tin opener because a courier van that tried to merge with it once opened up the length of his van)
and picked me up some bits to Toyotise my nissanised landrover.
70 series cruiser 9.5" diffs and chassis 2" lift leaves semi elliptical?

the chassis I can't use otherwise i'd be in scratchbuilt territory but the mounts etc I can including the power steering box

the rear diff is mounted too wide for the rovers rails so i'll be utilising the mounts off another front housing I have to pick up so that it mounts the same as this

been cutting mounts off cruiser chassis will be shortly followed by cruiser diffs and springs going under the landy,
maybe going to try something clever with the split rims to bead lock the tyres as well

Why are you cutting mounts off the cruiser chassis? Why not do whats been done many times before and use the landy springs?

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photo's for clive.
Turoa, my reasoning is that I can push the wheel base out a little so that I am using factory fit parts driveshafts springs shocks steering box from a 70 series so if I break anything I can just pop down to a wrecker and get a bolt in replacement.
the mq box driveshaft flanges will the effectively be the only modified component.
the chassis also needs the love so it will be copping a fair amount of extra steel to further future proof the little truck

busy day yesterday, guards off ,rot bashed out of passengers foot well,
list for today load up and go degrease waterblast the remaining bits.
chock it and level it before I start welding done
remove front and rear diffs done
remove gearbox
finish my box and pan folder
drink icy cold brews done started


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ouch.... rust repairs

not too bad really Reece ,
both cab outriggers rotten on the bottom,
front 2" of rails, back 6" of rails
and replacement of rear x member.
considering welding some aro fittings onto the chassis so I can purge
all the crap out after a trip and rust treat the inside of the rails.

lower bulkhead kick panels i'll fold up from tread plate which i'll amalgamate with the floor panels.
door hinge column on the bulkhead will be plated up with a strip of 6mm or 8mm as I hate saggy doors

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cruiser split rims i'm trying to find more of

rolled the diffs under in the bloody rain,
got my 8.25s on the split rims which unfortunately the young chap tore up the sidewalls real bad with his junior lever efforts (gutted).


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looks horey as but once I've sorted the positioning once the box is in it will be all good

gearbox test fit,
diffs positioned/mock up


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lots of mounts to mount and make, chassis is getting a stretch forwards by 2 inches and rear diff is heading 2-4" rearward,
also have to c section the middle xmember to clear front drive shaft

Awesome work jase, that mq box looks right at home in there, how will the offset be with the cruiser diff's and Nissan box? might get some mean vibration? You need to put a snail on the side of that LD, I might be able to help you out with a l20et manifold if I don't end up turbing mine. What ratio are the cruiser diffs? might be real tall geared

cheers Marty,
I have an l20et manifold and a couple turbo's to play with ,
gearbox offset is damn near perfect although it pulls the transfer case further rearward than the factory one meaning my centre x member is going to get a big c section to clear all the rotating bits.
gearbox is a 4 speed with 1:1 final drive, diffs are 4.1:1 on my 235 85 roadies it will be doing 2500rpm at 100k with a 4.4k redline on an ld28 (reputedly) meaning it could be quite quick if I keep weight down.
http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/wheelcalc.html this helps
gearing is about where i'd like it so I can get down south again whilst giving me the options to go to a smaller 33-34 mud tire if I find its a bit too tall in low box

I had to notch the same cross member for my V8 build.

Problem was I thought it would get hung-up. So I cut the entire thing out and had one of these folded up.



Gives heaps of clearance for the front driveshaft and exhaust and improved ground clearance.

Just requires a couple of plates and crusher tubes through the chassis.