Offroad-Express

Well i decided i would do some work on the truck this morning and remove the rear shocks in preparation for the new ones to arrive and as i had the front left brake caliper off also awaiting a replacement i thought i would regrease my wheel bearings.

I read the article posted on here on how to do it and used two 8mm bolts to start pulling the flange off to get at the bearing and both bolts have broken off with the flange partly off. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get this flange off now or get the broken bits of bolt out of the holes so i can just bolt it back down? Or is it a case of i have just fu$*ked it and need to replace the whole damn thing?

Hey man. Sounds similar to what a workmate did to his. Go to warehouse and get a set of cheap stud extractors. Drill a hole in the broken bolt and wind it out using said extractors. I take it you have undone the 12 mm bolts on the face of the hub and removed the cone washers??
If so then it should just pop off piece of cake

Flange? I'm lost... take pics...

Steve

I take it your talking about the drive flange? If its moved then it shouldn't be to much of a drama from now. Have you removed all the tapered collets under the spring washers? if not a good couple of whacks with a hammer on the edge where the collet hole is will distort the taper and push them out. Once these are all get a sharp pinch bar and tap it onto the low side(side that has come out the least, try getting a big ass screw driver on the other side and go from side to side. When hitting with the hammer make sure you put the nuts on the end of the threads so you dont miss and damage the threads.

The bolt thing only works if you jack them out a little, then wind the bolts back out hit the flange back in with the hammer thus releasing all (most) of the tapered collets and then you can jack it the rest of the way without shearing the bolts.

Hope this helps

Mike

Ah, yes just figured out what you meant - it's IFS and ADD Sorry... was thinking rear drum assembly for some bizzare reason... I'm with you now

Don't use the cheap warehouse eazyouts... they break off and then you're really screwed... get some cheap-ish powerbuilt ones from repco or have a garage use theirs... what you might find is that there was so much dirt and crap inside the threads that they've bound up and sheared off... get the old ones out and when the flange is off you can run a tap (or use a 1mm cutoff disk to cut a slot lengthwise down a high-tensile bolt for a cheap cleaning-tap) through to clean the holes...

Steve

Is there a circlip on the end of the axle inside the locking hub? I know there is on the Cruiser and you cant remove the flange completely till this circlip is removed, it will wiggle a little though. Supralux will know what i'm talking about and will soon put me straight if i'm wrong

thanks guys - got some stud extractors and that brok in the bolt too!! ended up getting it off with a jimmy bar - have regreased all the bearing and tightened slightly. Just grinded the bolts flat and put back on with a gasket sealant and heaps of marine grease in there. Now i know what im doing ill do the other one this weekend. also noticed the inner CV boot is almost craked right through and will need to replace. - do i need to take the inner cv out from the diff to get the new boot on? does anyone know if there is already a thread on here about how to do this?

Thanks guys

This is starting to sound expensive... might as well just sas it

Steve

well steve i really want to and as soon as I pay off a few other items i might put a SAS savings fund in motion!! with coils all round she would be a smooth ride and a lot better off road - at least dreams are cheap!

To replace the boot you need to remove the axle assembly from the vehicle.

Once you have it out you need to disassemble the inner joint. You can then cut off the old boot and repack the CV with new grease and put a new boot on.

Do not cut off the old boot until you have the inner joint apart, just in case.....

Put a new boot on the inner CV and repack that with grease as well and you should be good to go.

To remove the axle the easiest way is to disconnect the swaybar, jack up the vehicle under the arm on the side that you want to remove, put a packer under the upper arm to stop it dropping back down when you lower the vehicle onto axle stands.

Remove the hub and the 10mm bolt at the end of the axle and the circlip just past that. Get someone to put their foot on the brake and undo the axle nuts that go into the flange on the diff.

Disconnect the upper and lower balljoints and the steering tierod and you should be able to pull the wheel carrier assembly forward off the end of the axle and to the side. Push down with your foot on the lower arm to get the clearance you need. Get someone else to lift the axle out of the way. Make sure you don't damage the brake line.

Refit is reverse.

Get used to this - you will do it many times!!

Matt.

Sounds like a bit of a mission - definitley doable but I cant be arsed with having to do this too often!! Think ill just get it back on the road as soon as possible and when the boot breaks ill fix it but I have just been telling the mrs i need an SAS I was told if I save up for it I can do it!! so I guess the saving better begin! (better hope the pay review in november is more than im expecting

The first time is a bit of a mission but after that it's easy.

Carry some thick tape with you and check it when you are out and about 4x4ing.

If it tears then quickly cover it with tape without restricting the movement of the boot. This will prevent it getting unnecessary moisture and dirt inside the boot.

Matt.

penetrator wrote:Sounds like a bit of a mission - definitley doable but I cant be arsed with having to do this too often!! Think ill just get it back on the road as soon as possible and when the boot breaks ill fix it but I have just been telling the mrs i need an SAS I was told if I save up for it I can do it!! so I guess the saving better begin! (better hope the pay review in november is more than im expecting

Ive just done this twice on mine and dont mind giving you a hand if you want. I did it with only undoing the steering ball joint as well, much eaiser and quicker

I'm unemployed now so have all the time in the world to help

Mike

A lot of people get sucess with taking the axle out the back of the wheel carrier but some don't.

Doing it the longer way only adds a couple of more steps to the whole process.

Matt.

Ive just done this twice on mine and dont mind giving you a hand if you want. I did it with only undoing the steering ball joint as well, much eaiser and quicker Wink

I'm unemployed now so have all the time in the world to help


cheers mike appreciate the offer and if i was still in chch and shout you some beers and crank the bbq for an afternoon in the shed but im stuck down in queenstown at the moment. If you could pm the steps of how to do your way that would be great though. - hows that landrover of yours going anyway had a test run yet?

mike wrote:I'm unemployed now so have all the time in the world to help
Mike

Call me Possible PHP, XML and Java work if you're interested...

Oh, and I might have to start a new business... SAS Finance Ltd... If I could do that then I could catch up with all those people who have said they would do it if only they had the funds

Possibly an easier (read: truck off the road for less time) way would be to go find a second hand half-shaft assy and renew it (new boots, grease etc) then do a changeover... then rebuild the one you took out and put it in the other side... then rebuild that one and keep it as a spare in case you rip a boot out somewhere...

Steve

I'm unemployed now so have all the time in the world to help

Mike[/quote]

Unemployed??!! But back in Christchurch, I take it...???
Ah well, I'd rather be unemployed in chch than working in welly too, so I dont blame ya!!!

well I sorted out how to do te wheel bearings no worries and I have got the new shocks in the rear now and I have decided while I had the truck off the road that I might as well replace all the cv boots since they are showing signs of cracking the cv boots turn up tommorow but im wondering is their a special sort of tool i need to undo and put on the new clamps that hold the boots on?

There is a special tool you can get but you can usually get away with a pair of grips or pliers. Make sure you don't slip and damage your new boot.

A lot of people use the large heavy duty zip ties. These are easier to get on and probably clamp tighter but may not last as long.

Matt.

penetrator wrote:well I sorted out how to do te wheel bearings no worries and I have got the new shocks in the rear now and I have decided while I had the truck off the road that I might as well replace all the cv boots since they are showing signs of cracking the cv boots turn up tommorow but im wondering is their a special sort of tool i need to undo and put on the new clamps that hold the boots on?

Don't cut the old clamps off. Get a small screwdriver and lever the top layer up where it is crimped down. Then it folds back and makes it loose then slide them off. Re-use them by sliding them back on then with long nose pliers put them back in the crimping bit and hammer back tight Youll get what i mean when you do it.

Mike

cheers guys hopefully it all goes pretty smoothly!! The cv boots are coming with new clamps but will try and keep the old ones for spares just incase i need them at some stage.

hopefully by the weekend the old girl will be running sweetly with new shocks, brake calipers, cv boots, greased and tightened wheel bearings - been a bit of maintenance done the last couple of weeks