Offroad-Express

this has a Diesel 2.7 and its auto apart from a standard 2.7 engine what others would fit that maybe better than the old 2.7 diesel engine
as far as useing diesels engines

Wax on here was fitting a QD32 diesel into his Nissan, there is a write-up here:http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=29601

they very common gear box, Mazda use them also, most Nissan's from the late 80's, 90's that were not the high performance engines used them, such as VH, Rb's and VG engine series (not VG30DETT, it used the re4ro3a). Its just a case of changing the bell housing in most scenarios...My one bolted straight up to RB engine just needed to grind small cast area as used the diesel torque converter which is allot bigger then RB's.

Further investigation would be needed but i'm pretty sure the re4r01a (your automatic) possibly is interchangeable with re4r01b and re4r03a engines. which give another huge selection of engines to use

Personally I wouldn't worry about engine swaps... just strap a turbo/cooler onto the TD27 engine thats already in there and set it on 12-15psi.

That engine is way ahead of its time...

lax2wlg wrote:Personally I wouldn't worry about engine swaps... just strap a turbo/cooler onto the TD27 engine thats already in there and set it on 12-15psi.

That engine is way ahead of its time...

yep and remove the egr.

lax2wlg wrote:Personally I wouldn't worry about engine swaps... just strap a turbo/cooler onto the TD27 engine thats already in there and set it on 12-15psi.

That engine is way ahead of its time...

Agree, be prepared for big expenses to change engine over, an that fact will always remain more power sacrifices reliability

I not looking for more power The thing I seek in better fuel diesel econmy

honestly? , td27s are cheap as chips to run if well serviced...i faintly remember suzuki made 900cc engines prehaps will have better fuel economy

Yes your correct i have had what i think inprovments i get 600kms i have never put 70 liters in the tank yet 65 to 67
its an out on trips leave button on AT on normal try and its hard dont go over 95kms hour on long trip serviced yes i must i have had it 6 months like the dam thing more go than a 2.4 toyota

Keep the TD27!

I get 650-700km to a tank in mine and that's after boosting it 16-20psi and tweaking the fuel pump. Torque is a wonderful thing...

New turbo on it's way will make it even better.

Good aftermarket turbo option is the TD04L-13T - They use this on the 2.8 litre Iveco 4cyl turbo diesels

philip121 wrote:I not looking for more power The thing I seek in better fuel diesel econmy

no point it will cost more than what you save.
better to fix/tune the TD27

Good aftermarket turbo option is the TD04L-13T - They use this on the 2.8 litre Iveco 4cyl turbo diesels

Would this turbo bolt straight in?
Is it the same Dump pipe pattern?
What makes it better?

I'm still new to Turbo Diesels
Cheers

How do you TWEAK the fuel pump

Dunno how you guys get such good mileage out of a tank, mine drinks the stuff. I'd be lucky to get more than 500 out of a tank on the road.

Must be all the drag and weight it carries, much like me

can you buy new fuel pumps or can the old one be rebuilt this may have a good offect on diesel use

I found i got better fuel economy after i opened up the airways and got rid of the emission control crap. Im running 16psi, wound up pump and still geting 650ks to a tank

what did you take off.....wound up fuel pump how do you do this

Or strip as much weight out of the truck as possible. The factory tyre carrier is stupidly heavy. I pulled out over 20kg just in carpet and crap like that alone.

philip121 wrote:what did you take off.....wound up fuel pump how do you do this

so EGR is basically exhaust gas recirculation, and if you had a look at your exhaust manifold, there will be a pipe coming from underneath the manifold, and snakes through the back of the engine and connects up underneath your intake manifold, this has a valve on it which has a vaccum line controlling it. Tht is your EGR pipe and control valve, there is also a butterfly connected to your manifold feed pipe, which is basically the pipe coming from the compressor side of your turbo, supplying the compressed air charge. So, to remove the EGR, you basically have to prepare your self two blanking plates which is the shape of the inlet and outlet both the EGR ends, they are both the same so you can make the template from either end, just use the gaskets, i dare say u mayb able to get a gasket of nissan for that purpose, or jz pull the air intake manifold out and use the EGR pipe gasket from there to make the holes. While you are removing your intake manifold, it might be full of gunk and stuff, so give that a clean, its worth the time. Once you have your blanking plates, proceed to remove the EGR, if you are absolutely lazy, you may just remove the valve that controls the gas recirculation, and blank of the manifold and the other end of the EGR pipe, but i would recommend to remove the whole pipe and blank the intake manifold end and the exhaust manifold end. That pretty much sums that, though u will have two lose vaccum line, one of the valve and one of the butterfly control valve, which i think you can jz block off with a lil bolt.

The fuel pump that is on the TD27t is the Bosch VE Pump, its kinda hard to explain, but i will try, the expert here is sibainmud, you should have a look around his posts, but here goes, there is a screw at the back of the fuel pump, underneath your boost compensator unit, which is basically the big mushroom looking thing if you look directly from above, and if you feel about underneath that, you will feel a bolt, that basically control the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine, and by winding the bolt in, you basically increase the amount of fuel being metered (sent) to the injectors, and as with all diesels, more fuel, more bang, till you go overboard, you melt the pistons. So with the engine running, turn the screw a tiny bit, say a quater turn, and you should notice the engine idle rpm increasing, and basically you are on the right track.Then just adjust your idle screw to set your idle back and you should be algood. Having said that, this part i have just learnt from reading the Bosch VE pump manual which is widely availble on the net, just google Bosch VE pump pdf, and you can have it, and that will detail the operation of the pump. There are a couple more things that you can do, but you have to google under Bosch VE Pump mods, and there are resources for that. I am yet to wind the fuel for mine, as I am currently overseas, but will be home on the 29th Dec so will do after that, but yea, wait till simon sees this thread then he can comment if i am telling you the right thing about the pump or not, but I am 100% sure about the EGR bit, so there you go.

Peace

Arvin

many thanks will do

have trouble finding this fuel screw you say looking at engine from above its like a mushroom and the fuel ajustment screw is under that is this on the R OR L side of the engine

philip121 wrote:have trouble finding this fuel screw you say looking at engine from above its like a mushroom and the fuel ajustment screw is under that is this on the R OR L side of the engine

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 25&t=30636

There is some info there, to show which is the fuel screw



This picture should show you where the pump is

A few websites that have some info on what you can do to the fuel pump

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-145.html

http://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-131 ... #pid170162

http://www.fourwd.org.uk/bosch_ve.html

The two 306 pages have excellent excellent info regarding the bosch pump modification, i find it to be of superb knowledge

And lastly a link to the manual for the bosch pump itself, have a read

http://www.kiwicylinderheads.com/Portal ... -Pumps.pdf

These should put you in track i hope, and if u have more questions, fire away, i am sure there are heaps more experienced people here who can help

Peace

Arvin

I couldnt have put it better myself arvin
The screw in question may have an anti-tamper cover on it, a flat head screwdriver will fix that

Have fun. EGT gauge highly recomended

Cheers,

Ummm...that isn't a good way to tune a boost compensated pump....
The anerpid fuel pin is where you should be tuning from....

on the picture Where is it what is best done with it

Aneroid fuel pin is under the mushroom bit, if u open that bit, there will b a lil spring loaded diaphragm that i think u wind in further to get more fuel, i thnk thts wt keepwalkn is saying, though i dont know why that is the prefered method of tuning the pump

Peace

Arvin

philip121 wrote:I'm not looking for more power. The thing I seek is better diesel fuel economy

So do the opposite of this advice. Dial in less fuel for less power and better economy.
Or stop driving? Mine uses pretty much bugga all fuel while its parked in the shed ae
AHHA! I figured out your problem as I typed this! If you fill your tank full, drive till its empty and find you did -300 km, its because you wound your speedo back! Great economy, but you'd never notice....