D21 vs R50 auto trans

[jetskiwi]

Can anyone tell me if the auto trans in R50 models is as difficult to drive as my D21. Lots of 5th..3rd..5th..3rd on full throttle. Or are the transmission electronics a bit smarter from '96 on.
I've read the posts about switching lock-up, but that disables it until restart.
I have a pretty good D21 and this is about the only reason I'm considering selling and upgrading, plus the extra 50hp.

[Dirtydog]

ive heard that the r50 have a few issues compared to the older types,

i know someone up north that brough an r50 (we brought out d21 of them and they upgraded)

after about 15000 ks the gearbox crapped out and they had to spend alot of money fixing it.

but i dont know if thats because they arnt built strong, or because of the condition of the vehicle.

[keepwalkn]

Adjust the TPS switch on the injector pump and it will stop kicking back a gear.
Rotate it 1mm anti-clockwise.

The gearboxes aren't weak.

The problem is the heat generated isn't dissipated by the pathetic factory transmission cooler that runs through the radiator.
In addition, the TPS switch is set too sensitive from factory - It thinks you are applying more throttle than you actually are - This results in early upshifts and makes the auto slip more (generates more heat) and also (the problem you are having) kicking down to 3rd when you apply a little extra throttle at highway speeds when the converter is locked.

Are you using the hold switch when applying full throttle on the highway - The hold switch cancels out the kickdown switch the accelerator presses when you press it to the floor.

I am also about to install a resistor that has similar resistance to the lockup solenoid so I can control the lockup manually and NOT have the TCU throw an error and disable the lockup

[Crash bandicoot]

R50 trans is the same as the D21/W21 but may pay to put the D21 transfer on the r50 as the r50 is electronic over cable select

pretty much completely different systems as the R50 wasn't just a facelift but a whole new platform.

[jetskiwi]

Thanks kw, i've turned the fuel ~1/2 and that alone has made it much more drivable. Now less throttle, more power, so not so many gear changes.
Ta for reminding me about the 'hold' button - i have tried it in the past, but with less power it didn't do much. Now it's a smoke generator, holding gear up hills longer.
There's still a few hills between TePuke n Rotorua (on mountain bike missions) that are too steep and force a change down in 'hold mode' and revs out and get overtaken, so I'll change the potentiometer too, see how that goes.

Now I've got the power where I want it, just need to get the idle back down. Sitting just below 1marker, I'd guess 950rpm. This makes for a/c idling too high and have had to adopt new driving style of actually braking And now mrs says we're capable of pulling a caravan my god doesn't she watch TopGear. I took a look at the idle screw, but the control was well off it. I dropped 200rpm adjusting the throttle cable clamp.

EGT digimeter and boost controller ordered. I don't really want a boost gauge, can I set up the wastegate bleed with a borrowed gauge and just leave it? Or might it readjust over time/vibration?