Offroad-Express

hey I've got an ln130 surf and i just redid all the cv joints and boots and after about a week the passenger side inner cv boot started to split, any ideas on what would be causing this?

Thanks

Is it lifted at all (i.e. wound up at the front)? What are the CV angles like?

My Surf has a 3" lift so the front is wound up and maxed out. Noticed yesterday both my inner CV boots are split. Assuming it is due to the CV angles although they don't look that major. Going to replace both inner boots this week and see if the new ones split.

If yours is lifted that would probably be the reason. Or the wrong CV boots were used (or cheap Chinese duds).

The rubber boots get a bit perished, then when you rise it the rubber just splits. I haven had much luck with aftermarket boots. I would recommend to get the cv boot kits from Toyota. Can get a kit to do both boots per axle. So may as well do all four boots a should be good. This is another reason people fit manual hubs after raising suspension to reduce wear on boots

Bronx what did you do with your springs after your dramas. I ask as I see you have new skorched shocks which maybe a bit short for the 3-4 inch springs. Only designed for 2inch lift really.

Kept my springs, got 3" long travel shocks all round. They are for a 3" lift not 2"

By the way, Toyota charge $75+gst for a single inner boot, BNT charge $18+gst. Stuff getting all 4 boots from Toyota!! Would be cheaper and better to get ball joint spacers to reduce CV angles and BNT boots wouldn't it?

Pretty sure I got an axle cv boots kit for around $70 from Toyota. But I am in the trade and mates with the parts guy
Ball joint spacers will make things worse as will allow more angle. I think if you do ball joint spacers you can lower the diff down to help reduce cv angles. Look on trademe a guy sells a full kit I think

This is from Skorched 4's info sheet:
"The KYB Skorched4 is ideally suited to 4WD touring in Australian conditions for standard and up to 50mm lifted vehicles"

Yea I called them the other day and got quoted $70ish plus gst for a single inner boot.

That sounds odd, I got told by the supplier they are the 3" ones i.e. allow for an additional 75mm of up travel, and they are notmclose to maxed out now, so I'd tend to believe him; he is also a suspension vet/expert. But I will get in touch with him to see what he says, cheers for the heads up I guess and let's hope you're wrong lol

"allow for an additional 75mm of up travel"
Longer shocks will allow more down travel(extension). Don't get me wrong I have those shocks and like them. I have 50mm springs

As ya know someone at toyta get a price for a compete axle,,,,, are surprisingly cheap.

tallsam66 wrote:As ya know someone at toyta get a price for a compete axle,,,,, are surprisingly cheap.

What are you on about? Front axles?

Sorry I meant extension not uptravel, was doing 4 things at once.

hey i just have raised springs in the back 2 inch and i wound the torsion bars up in the front

cv specialists here in chch sell a silicone cv boot which dont dry or crack well havent as of yet its a good idea plus its more flexible than the rubber ones.

if the rids on the cv boots touch then your ever lifted to high in front or not to do diff drop, oz boys seem to find in there hilux/surfs if the ribs touch they gothrough boots something shocking thats why they do diff drops

mud_slinger wrote:cv specialists here in chch sell a silicone cv boot which dont dry or crack well havent as of yet its a good idea plus its more flexible than the rubber ones.

Are they available online?

how much do the silicon ones cost?

terrain tamer do good cv boots at 40 buck each, id recomend doing a diff drop and buy sum bigger 27mm bars so they dont have to be wound up so much

I have dealt with this a long time ago and constatly am for customers (gay ifs )
If you are lifting it increasing the cv angles regardless of what your boots are made of they will still wear through eventually , i have done diff drops before and if you are running longer articualation shocks the added boddy roll / travel radius will still cause it to happen , i found the best things to do were get high quality thick boots , and then fit manual hubs to the front of it so when your on the road going100 plus ks and hour the front axles dont spin , it over tripples there life ,
Surfs use a system that also disenguages the front left axle using a diagphram operated fork , however the axles are permanantly in operation due to the solid state hubs , (same as 80 series cruiser , )
Fitting manual hubs is easy as piss, increases boot , cv , and wheel bearing life , and also gives you fuel economy increase believe it or not , and the vehicles dont torque steer on corner exit like a bitch with big wheels
Alternatively if you are sick of the I F S throw it in the bin and do a beam axle conversion so your axles are no longer as weak as tooth picks , and you have more ground clearance etc ,

Trundle wrote: Alternatively if you are sick of the I F S throw it in the bin and do a beam axle conversion so your axles are no longer as weak as tooth picks , and you have more ground clearance etc ,

what i did and never going back lol

what i did and never going back lol[/quote]

Like Button ^^^

Checked under my surf last night and FL side is gone, my truck is standard so im putting it down to factory weak spot.