Offroad-Express

Hi guys and I'm sure gals. I dont have a 4x4 but there dosnt seem to be any decent diesel based forums around so i guess your stuck with me. I do however have a hiace super custom with the mighty 1kz motor. Which decided recently to crack its head so being so involved in drifting in nz with our laxed modification rules has resulted in anything I pull apart ends up being cut up and modified. Lol including now my can. Making power and torque is all about air flow be it pretol or diesel. Think of engines as a big air pump the easier in and out the better so with this in mind I've done some Motorsport basics to it as its going back togeher.

Firstly I have port matched the turbo to manifold and manifold to head.


Today i went through and ported out the intake as well. Small increase in size to suit the intake gasket on the head but the intake manifold has increased by about 10% just to match up with the head. I also welded up the inside of the egr port and ported it into shape.



I am waiting for these damn laser cutter to get their acts together and cut my flanges to build 1kz Dump pipes out of stainless steel and thick wall ss bends.

I had already installed a large drag racing water to air intercooler with a Davies craig 115lpm electric water pump front mounted alloy radiator heat exhanger and a 30l water tank to help with water capacity As it does long tow journeys around the country with our drifting. I'll get some better pics of this setup as it all goes back together tomorrow.

Nice to see someone else porting the 1KZ. I did my 1993 KZJ-71 Prado 100,000kms ago. I see you had a wee slip across the exhaust flange face. Ha! Easily done.

I blended the whole butterfly port so the chamfer at the mating surfaces was fully blended out.
There are also big gains to be had by removing the sharp inside corner (the short-side) from the exhaust ports in the head. The best improvement that I could see for freeing up heat removal / flow increase.

I ported both intake and exhaust ports but the biggest gain I got was from opening up the exhaust short sides. I did not flow the valves, erring on the side of caution, with my first diesel mods however I did flow the seat area and fully radius the lead up to and after the valve seats.

I recommend doing all this, as well as what you have done. The 100 to 145km/h acceleration distance went from 1.6km down to 1km. Only other change was a set of reco-ed injector tips.

Where did you put the W/A intercooler? Hard to figure from your shot, not being that familiar with the van engine opening.
Why did you go W/A rather than the usual A/A?

Great post to see Slydho. Welcome to ORE!
Keep up the photos and also put in where abouts you are from in your profile, please.
Cheers Johnno

I have managed to squeeze more power out of mine with a TD05H which seems to match perfectly and a mechanical fuel pump. Being a dirty diesel and a truck on big tyres you would be surprised at how well it goes both in towing and in everyday driving. I have had a few people turn their eyes when i have been in a rush thinking what the hell. Looks like you are going down the right track. Will be interesting to see how it goes.

Sam

I've looked through my profile edit but can't see where to put my location. I am in Auckland tho.

As for the water to air i/cs position. Well there wasn't room anywhere to put it so I had to make room behind the head and on top of the bell housing. Lucky for me there is a large removable panel which gives acess to the space I needed. Here is the setup as of today. It's just about running again just taking 10 from the heat.







My reason for water to air over air to is came Down to one factor. Piping length. To do a front mount would 1 be such a mission with getting two pipes to the front and two would probably end up being 3-4m long. Water to air are very effective intercoolers.

Sadly no dump pipe flanges yet. Hard to make people do their damn Job. Next Tuesday now they recon. Gosh!

mate that thing is going to haul ass.cant wait to see it finished

Well she is alive! And running with only days to spare. I took her out for a quick 60k run. There is definitely a noticeable difference with all the port work. Pulling off the line is much stronger then before if Turning out into T juntion it will light up the inside wheel much more then before. This I'm well familiar with being a d1nz drifter haha. How ever I think the dump pipe and removing the very large barrel muffler will amplify these improvements that much more. Another improvement over the last head is the fact, the intake is very clean now and not caked up with egr poo anymore.

Is your van an auto?
And have you done anything to prevent the w/a cooler from heating up as that is a big heat gathering spot? Be a bit of heat soak on the tow missions

My van is an auto yes. That is just the intercooler the whole system includes a 30l water tank (for extra capacity on long tow trips) water is pumped round the sytem by A Davies Craig 115lpm electric water pump with the heat exchanger is a modified alloy Honda civic radiator mounted in the grill up front. Piping is some big marine 19mm Id fuel hose major grunty stuff.

You sound like you know what your doing but have seen threads on some sites that reckon to higher water flow can inhibit heat transfer as the water is traveling to fast to pull the heat out of the cooler and not in the radiator long enough to cool down. With that size storage you should be sweet
watch the 1st and second gear basket with that grunt going through. Ours has chewed out 2 sets due to those inside wheel spins. Put the surf(?) set in and no problems since.

The water pump probably is a bit big but I had it laying around the garage so in she went. As with the dif I'd love a LSD but their prices are to high to justify on a road vehicle

Great project! Like that you took the trouble to port everything out. It's something that so many people overlook when they have the motor apart. Even if it is to remove the casting slag and a simple gasket match.

Looks cool what sort of boost are you planning on running

Youd probably get some benifit if you put some Redline Water Wetter into it.This makes the water more efficent at transfering heat.

Did you do the porting yourseif.. Nice work

tallsam66 wrote:Youd probably get some benifit if you put some Redline Water Wetter into it.This makes the water more efficent at transfering heat.

Ah yes, the old water wetter debate.

How does this work if your thermostat is working properly? If it does work (and im not saying it doesnt) you would only get the benifit if you had other cooling issues causing your thermostat to be wide open and not keeping up with cooling demands. Wouldnt a properly working cooling system be better than a "band aid fix" like an additive.

Its a bit like adding an oil additive to stop a rattle, the problems still there just you cant hear it anymore untill the additive cant keep up with the failure.

Also, I was of the understanding your not ment to use it with Glycol and yet it doesnt prevent freezing? Be ok for summer but not sure Ide risk it in winter.

Long story short, a good old fashioned flush out would be time better spent and generally good maintenance on your engine.

M2C

Hi guys. The van is still going strong just. I can't believe the difference in performance and fuel economy since the head replacement. We just had round 3 of d1nz at bay park in Tauranga. It managed to tow my silvia trailer 10 17" rims and tires plus all oh tools etc there on only half a tank. Was well impressed in the drastic improvement.

After all my waiting I finally collected my dump pipe flanges and pipe bends. It's not quite finished yet as I need to weld on an extension on the flange to separate the turbo and waste gate gasses in the turbo. Well here is a comparison between factory and my custom built dump pipe. As said before if you guys are wanting dump pipes made I'd be more then happy to make them for you. This one is made from 2" bends and flares out to 2.5" just before the flange. Now before you start telling me u should have made it out if 3" it's not size but how well the gasses flow that makes the power. A few guys here have made dump pipes that are almost just replicas of the horrid designed factory item but bigger. Which is not always better.

That's just beautiful
Cheers
Rob

Thanks for posting pics. Good to see what you have created.

As someone with a fair bit of gasflow type tuning experience, but with f-all turbo mods knowledge, I am interested to know why you are joining the two gas streams later? Also, are there formulas used to size the pipes or is it just seat of pants and experience?
I used to build lots of custom extraction ex manifolds in the UK years ago. Used the formulas for pipe dia and primary & secondary length from a book called 4 Stroke Tuning by Alexander G. Bell. Involves cyl volumes, exhaust valve timings etc.
These days my mates use various PC programs for this.

No doubt it is all different once you involve a turbo...

Am also interested to know of the gains to be had by using a tuned length ex manifold prior to the turbo.

If you or anyone else can answer these questions, or where to reference tech answers, I would very much appreciate this.

P.S. To answer your previous question regarding finding your profile, for entering your location; go to Forum page. On RH side under Quick Links, click Private Messages. On that page look on LH side, and under Options click on Profile. Amongst other options, is Location.

Oh and what is with the JUST regarding your engine still going...

Most of those flow calculations go flying out the window when you strap a turbo onto a motor as its no longer the motor pumping air through it but the turbo forcing it down its throat and out it's bum. I can't really help with any formulas or references but if you want I'd suggest talking to a guy called Steve Murch from motorsport engineering he's the best turbo builder in the country and can answer almost any question you could have.

I've just have built enough parts for japas making 500+hp and studied what and how the big names brands in Japanese performance parts do so most things are a case of monkey see monkey do as I don't have the budgets to do a lot of Dyno testing.

The waste gate has been plumbed in later to allow the main exhaust gas to get away from the turbo as far as possible before being mixed with the wastegate gasses. Everything I've done to this 1kz is the same approach I'd use when building parts for our drift cars which make on average 350rwkw (500rwhp) on stock Rb long blocks.

I quizzed Steve Murch on tuned length runners before the turbo. His answer was add a couple psi of boost and there is no difference between tuned and none equal length exhaust manifold runners.

With the dump pipe I made. It doesn't need a rocket scientist or Dyno to show that mine will be better then the factory item. With performance parts we use a 80/20 rule. You can generally make an item with a bit if planing and thought to work at 80% of its potential with 20% effort. The info your wanting is to get that last 20% effectiveness but will require the other 80% effort. If you get what I mean. And the solution to all of it is.


Wind the boost up.

Well dump pipe is finished and installed and all I can say is the difference is as big if not bigger then when I did the intercooler. Best thing I could have made for it. Such a beautiful van to drive now.

Beautiful dump pipe man! Bit extreme for a dirty ol diesel, but if you can, then why not?!
Did the dump pipe change exhaust note (sound) at all?

slide wrote:Beautiful dump pipe man! Bit extreme for a dirty ol diesel, but if you can, then why not?!
Did the dump pipe change exhaust note (sound) at all?

Na man not dirty diesel. Mighty 1kz. I love fabricating parts so try get creative

My van has never been very economical to use but wow since all these mods I've just done a fuel economy test. I put in 50 bucks diesel or 33.3L after running the van to the point I was sure it was about to stop on me it was so empty. I'm sitting in a gas station now amazed I made it too the pump and the trip od is sitting at 310km. Wow that's put it at around 600km a tank or 10kml.

making a turbo diesel breath better does help with fuel ecomony.
i have a 1HDT 80 series cruiser 12 valve, put a small front mount intercooler and 3 inch exhuast on it, gained 38% HP & Tq and got better fuel ecomony. Because of the increase in torque from the cooler intake charge you dont need your foot up it anywhere near as much to go places.

If you want even more go in your van, get a 250ml water injection nozzle and spray 33-40% methanol and the rest water into it, you'll love it, especially when towing and you come to a hill.

I now have a VF36 turbo off a Spec C STi on my cruiser but haven't upped the boost to make full use of it yet.

Yeah I've starred to look at water/meth injection that and doing some mods to the intake manifold to get better flow to cylinder 1 & 2. As ive seen on are.com.au. when some spare cash come along I'm also going to make a custom equal(ish) length exhuast manifold

Just to get an idea how much coin are you after for one of those dump pipes? Cheers

Mate if mine got me to make a few bits for his kzn130 surf. Bear in mind I have some finishing to do on both items tomorrow.

Custom replacenent dump pipe and a bit of a mod to the intake manifold to try get better flow to cylinder 1 & 2.

With the dump pipe it may look bigger But It is but it barely leave the confines of the original items outer most boundries. Only place it extends past, is up which is great as there isn't anything above the turbos. Just down and to the left (engine block) and right (chassis rail)?

how much for intake manifold to be done?do you weld up egr holes?did you notice performance gains the same as "are" when you installed water to air intercooler.thinking about removing top mount air to air.
cheers andy

Yeah the water to air setup would way better then those top mount ones. Intake modification and egr port fill and reshape $250 shipped on
exchange bases or $300 supplied

how much better is it with your manifold back on?