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Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:36 pm
by danielbeek
Hi,
Anyone had this happen before?
Today while driving, revs suddenly dropped to zero, then randomly would spike to max rpm, and occassionally settle on actual rpm. Mainly sitting on zero rpm now.
Just wondering if there's a weak spot I should check first?
I read on an old post that possibly the pickup is off the camshaft? Can anyone confirm that?
Its a 1995 Terrano WD21 TD27T, with facelift dashboard. 235,000km.
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:40 pm
by Dirtydog
mine did something similar, when trucks turned on its nomal, but when truck gets turned off drops to zero, then sits at 4k.
gets anoing but ya get use to it.
id say its to do with the rev counter in the dash, check wires arnt pinched somewhere, and that its earthed properly
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:25 am
by CLUMZ1
Safari one does the same, just ignore it and listen to the beast...
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:23 am
by Budore
Mine does exactly the same totally unpredictable. Unfortunately for me, I have to get mine fixed as the yearly test here (MOT) expects all instruments & lamps to be working or it is a fail.
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 2:26 pm
by Gardengnome
Had similar in a Hiace and identical in the inlaws 1996 Terrano 2.7TD. Had both fixed by E.Parrott and Son Ltd in Chch.
http://www.eparrott.co.nz/Took the dash(s) in and they resoldered all the joints on the circuit board. $65.
Can't remember if it was + or inc GST. Anyway, worked a treat and still going.
The terrano only took 10min to get the dash cluster out!
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 3:50 pm
by kiwipete
If it is a case of dry solder joints, I can do that for you for a box of beer, got to be way cheaper than a shop.
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:09 pm
by sibainmud
kiwipete wrote:If it is a case of dry solder joints, I can do that for you for a box of beer, got to be way cheaper than a shop.
^^^^^^^like^^^^^^^
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:15 pm
by new2zukes
my 1995 terrano has similar problem but it doesnt go at all, i hasnt gone for the past 4 years that ive owned it every now and then like once a year it will jump into life for 2 seconds then back to sleep again. not really in too much of a need for a rev gauge but is a bit annoying.
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 7:55 am
by danielbeek
kiwipete wrote:If it is a case of dry solder joints, I can do that for you for a box of beer, got to be way cheaper than a shop.
I'm an electronics technician, so thanks for the offer, but I should manage ok!
Glad to hear this is a likely cause - beats engine work or pulling a new pickup cable.
Thanks everyone. I'll update with the fix once it's done.
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:47 pm
by icekayak
Fixed mine a while back, has been going fine for a few months now. Was doing exactely the same thing.
Have a look at
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/151359-crazy-rev-counter-fixed-guide.html, mine was quite different in construction (facelift D21 TD27), but gives an idea of what you are looking for.
I only resoldered the big joints, 1 of the legs of the ic, and one of the legs of the resistor, basically anything that looked possibly slightly dodgy.
The one catch is I had to pull the needle off to get to the circuit board with the soldering iron, so lost the calibration. I just put it back on at 750 with the truck idling so is roughly about right.
Re: Rev counter gone bad in Terrano
Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:51 pm
by icekayak
Also this site
http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/67592-r33-rev-conter-problem-fix.htmlThis i.c. has a slightly smaller than 'normal' pin-pitch, it appears Nissan left to much 'solder-resist' on the p.c.b. around the holes through the board for it's legs to go through, I strongly recomend desoldering this i.c. completely and then cleaning the solder-resist back around where the pins exit, then re-fit the i.c. and resolder carefully, remember to use ESD precautions at all times.
It's not like 'normal' dry joints, the failiure is NOT visable there just is not enough copper p.c.b track for the solder to make a perfect joint, once the green solder resist is cleaned away it is fine.
I didn't bother unsoldering it, just basically held the iron on anything that looked dodgy.