Tubes or not

[drive it ...]

Just rim flipped some 15 x 7 ROH Trek rims. Will be putting on 33 x 10.5 Jungle trekkers.
Cant decide to put in tubes or not. Was running these tyres tubeless on prado alloys before - every 2nd trip I'm in tyre shop getting beads popped to clean out and reseat. But read a few posts here about heavy cross ply tyres being pretty hard on tube wear if running low pressures and tyre is flexing around.
I didn't think ahead beforehand, valve hole is only redrilled for standard car valves, not tractor, and now they're all painted up.
Any of you dudes that have tried both ways, whats best?

[coxsy]

dammed if you do dammed if you don't i run tractor tubes only one failer so far with 33'' lots more with out

[curly12]

Just rim flipped some 15 x 7 ROH Trek rims. Will be putting on 33 x 10.5 Jungle trekkers.
Cant decide to put in tubes or not. Was running these tyres tubeless on prado alloys before - every 2nd trip I'm in tyre shop getting beads popped to clean out and reseat. But read a few posts here about heavy cross ply tyres being pretty hard on tube wear if running low pressures and tyre is flexing around.
I didn't think ahead beforehand, valve hole is only redrilled for standard car valves, not tractor, and now they're all painted up.

Had no problems with my creepys and tubes but others prefer them tubeless, each to their own...

Any of you dudes that have tried both ways, whats best?

Ask Rex ....

[Zooky]

I was reading something the other day about a dude in the states building a 60 series Cruiser, and he had seated the tyres on the rims with a silicone sealant.....

Sounded a little crazy, but could be a great alternative to either continually popping beads as you have mentioned, or puncturing tubes through dirt and other contaminants getting past the bead and wearing a hole. I imagine that getting the tyre back off the rim though could be a mission, as some of that stuff sticks like siht to a blanket......

[Zooky]

Any of you dudes that have tried both ways, whats best?

Lol!

[Sadam_Husain]

what ever way you go mate its easy to change if it dosent work for you, when I had my centipedes on standard 8" rims I had about a million puntures untill I got some heavy duty tubes with standard 12mm car valve stems, I cant really remember getting any/many puntures once I changed to heavy duty tubes but I had the rims beadlocked not long after that and went to heavy duty tubes with tractor valves and they are still pretty good punture wise, they have been on nurses truck for the past 18 months and she runs them pretty bagged out and I've only had to do one punture on them since shes had them. Tubeless might work fine for you if they were ok tubeless before, comes down to rim width, tyre bead width, pressure, terain, driving style, truck weight, luck etc, if you were having problems with shit in the beads you'll still get that with or without tubes and if you've got tubes thats a lot of abrasive shit getting down between the tubes and sidewall to create a punture.... theres no easy answer other than what works for you

[tweake]

I was reading something the other day about a dude in the states building a 60 series Cruiser, and he had seated the tyres on the rims with a silicone sealant.....

Sounded a little crazy, but could be a great alternative to either continually popping beads as you have mentioned, or puncturing tubes through dirt and other contaminants getting past the bead and wearing a hole. I imagine that getting the tyre back off the rim though could be a mission, as some of that stuff sticks like siht to a blanket......

most silicone sealants don't glue that well.
tho you can buy bead glue or just use tire patch glue.

[Drurban]

I have had no trouble with my tubes and Iam running 32" Simex's, not sure if they are heavy duty or not and I have put the tyres down to low preasures and had no issue.
Like above everyone to there own.

Cheers

[Zooky]

I guess it also comes down to which is easier to solve should you get more than one flat on a trip. Hard to repair a tube in the bush, but re-seating a tubeless is possible with a bit of mucking around.

[coxsy]

bush repair on a tube cost 1 hour all up, as i didn't take the spare with me

[imsohi]

I guess it also comes down to which is easier to solve should you get more than one flat on a trip. Hard to repair a tube in the bush, but re-seating a tubeless is possible with a bit of mucking around.

i run tubes with my 35 simexs for harder stuff easy to repair tyre if puncured in feild pop off rim and pull through a tubless valve fix it when you home, i also run tubeless in my 33 bighorns but use these for different trips good club stuff, as sadam said all about your personal preferance truck ect,ect my 2c

[Zooky]

i run tubes with my 35 simexs for harder stuff easy to repair tyre if puncured in feild pop off rim and pull through a tubless valve fix it when you home, i also run tubeless in my 33 bighorns but use these for different trips good club stuff, as sadam said all about your personal preferance truck ect,ect my 2c

So you just re-inflate the tyre with the tube poked up inside? That's a good idea.

[Sadam_Husain]

So you just re-inflate the tyre with the tube poked up inside? That's a good idea.

yeah mate thats an old trick all you need is a few tubless valve stems in the glovebox ready to throw in when the tube puntures

[Dirtydog]

If ya gunna run tubeless just make sure ya got a can of something flammable (aerosol can).

make sure theres nothing in the bead, spray inside the tyre, light contents and bam, tyre is set on bead. do pump it up quickly though as they suck in when the gases cool down.

[drive it ...]

Thanks for the replys. I like the spare valve idea for a quick backup option.

if you were having problems with shit in the beads you'll still get that with or without tubes and if you've got tubes thats a lot of abrasive shit getting down between the tubes and sidewall to create a punture.... theres no easy answer other than what works for you

That about sums it up. Well it was a pain tubeless before so I'll source some HD car valve tubes and give them a try.

Cheers all.

[kbushnz]

Thanks for the replys. I like the spare valve idea for a quick backup option.

if you were having problems with shit in the beads you'll still get that with or without tubes and if you've got tubes thats a lot of abrasive shit getting down between the tubes and sidewall to create a punture.... theres no easy answer other than what works for you

That about sums it up. Well it was a pain tubeless before so I'll source some HD car valve tubes and give them a try.

Cheers all.

When you install the tubes put in heaps and heaps of talc powder inside....
It allows the tube to slip and slide inside the tyre when aired down....
(Was told and shown this by a 4 wheeler who is also a tyre dealer)
Has worked thus far for me....

[callum007]

RUn tubes. Carry spare valve stems and a few valve cores, own a valve tool, makes them easier to pull through. Problem solved. Ive only ever had one flat from tearing a valve off a tube. Last time I cleaned the beads out, I sealed them on with liquid nails, it seems to be working to keep the beads clear of crap..

[00falcon]

Finding this thread interesting....

My month old Silverstones, i need to have the beads cleaned for the second time, as they are filthy...

First time i water blasted sand in...
second time was just from use...

I'm seriously thinking of tubes...

[Sadam_Husain]

Finding this thread interesting....

My month old Silverstones, i need to have the beads cleaned for the second time, as they are filthy...

First time i water blasted sand in...
second time was just from use...

I'm seriously thinking of tubes...

tubes wont stop the beads filling up with shit you need to beadlock them to seal the bead but you'll still end up with shit getting in only less of it. The only way to clean the beads out properly is to take the tyres off and clean everything out anything else you do just pushes the shit further in you need those silverstones on narrow rims coz there a pretty shinny tyre

[Jafa]

All depends on how you drive, how heavy your truck is, and how low you like to run them.
Ive used both, and I was getting quite a few flatties from ripping the stem from the tube, this was because i was only running about 5 psi and the tire squirms around so much that the tube rips off the valve because its locked to the rim (its the TR218 dump valve)
After ditching the tubes, and using the tubeless TR218 valves.... no issues.
the valves have a nice brass locknut too, nice rigid setup.
Ive never lost a inner bead, and have mechanical beadlocks on the outside, truck weighs 1500kg
I think you could run tubes without the same issue if you set your lower limit at say 10-12 psi? at a guess
my 2c

[DieselBoy]

No body has mentioned it, so I will...

Reversed/ flipped rims are like poor mans bead locks.

If you look at the profile of the rim now it's flipped, you will see how far the tyre has to be pushed before it comes off the bead. Usually at least twice the distance than before. Makes running tubeless offroad much more attractive

My vote is for real heavy offroad use, go with tubes.

For everything else go tubeless.

The pros for tubeless are:

No rubbing through of tubes
A simple repair kit from super heap will fix most punctures with out having to take tyre off the bead
A tie down and your little 12v compressor will refit tyre to the bead if you knock it off
Carry a tube as a back up incase you can't fix the tyre with your repair kit