Offroad-Express

muddy wrote:Most likely needs new panhard bushes. Not a difficult job - especially if you have access to a decent press, although I managed to do mine using an ordinary bench vice... But first check the panhard bolts are nice & tight...

DaveM wrote:Can be a number of things. I run 80mm lift, and standard panhards without problems. My last 4 shaking problems have all been different, panhard bushes, radius bushes (chassis end), king pin bearings and the castor bushes chewing out within 6mths (rubber bushes too). I now have vibrations while braking, so new rotors will be next
Have a nosey underneath and check all bolts etc are there on panhards, radius arms etc

Sadam_Husain wrote:quick question coz its not that clear, have you put the 3" lift kit in and now you've got problems or have you got problems without the lift kit installed

CLUMZ1 wrote:
No - lift not yet delivered. Brought it in from Aus at what looked like a sharp price... then I got sprung with GST at the border. OUCH!

Sadam_Husain wrote:

CLUMZ1 wrote:
No - lift not yet delivered. Brought it in from Aus at what looked like a sharp price... then I got sprung with GST at the border. OUCH!

get the kit put in before you go spending a whole pile of money getting the old suspension fixed and overhauled just to rip it all out to put the new stuff in, x2 on G.Guy they live and breath safaris down there albiet supercharged LS1 Saf's

coxsy wrote:get drop boxes not caster bushes .the front arms will point downward and will not lift over bumps, the arms need to be flat to work, honest

CLUMZ1 wrote:Gidday,

Looking to find a workshop in the Wellington area to fix my truck for a reasonable cost, preferably somewhere with experience with Nissans or even better, Safaris.

Basically my issue is that when I'm driving; if I don't hold the wheel the truck will go over a bump, cause bump steer which vibrates itself into a worse and worse state, eventually (5 seconds ish) the wheel will be moving 2-3 inches either way, and won't stop until I grip the wheel hard.

Any ideas of cause/shop recommendations would be appreciated.

This might be stating the obvious, but given the picture of your truck covered in mud check that you haven't got a build up of mud on the inside of the rims & or in the tyres. Only time I've seen death woobles as bad as you're describing is because of this or badly bent tie rods etc from hard off roading

Short Y60 wrote: If you can afford plate you can afford to save a little more for drop boxes! Lol
Heirachy of caster correction:
Bushes
Plates 150/200
Drop boxes 350/400
Drop arms
Superflex/drop arms
LONG ARMS!!!!

DaveM wrote:Drop boxes are good, but once you factor in the cost of boxes/cert, they get up there in price pretty quick

keithal wrote:

DaveM wrote:Drop boxes are good, but once you factor in the cost of boxes/cert, they get up there in price pretty quick

your gonna have to pay for cert for a 3" lift anyway so why not do it all at once instead of having to cert again later on down the track

DaveM wrote:

keithal wrote:

DaveM wrote:Drop boxes are good, but once you factor in the cost of boxes/cert, they get up there in price pretty quick

your gonna have to pay for cert for a 3" lift anyway so why not do it all at once instead of having to cert again later on down the track

I've had mine checked by cert guy and told it doesn't require one. Even so, my Safari is fine with castor bushes, so still save $300-600 for the price of drop boxes, but each to their own.

keithal wrote:if im not mistaken you must have cert if suspension is raised more than 50mm