Correct joining procedure when cutting a chassis

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mike
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Correct joining procedure when cutting a chassis

Post by mike »

One for you cletus,

I've cut my disco chassis into two and taken 12 inches out of it. In those manuals of yours whats the required way or suggested method of joining a chassis back togeather to get through certification. At the moment its butted back togeather with a box sleeve on the inside. Next weekend I am about to plate it on the sides with plates that have long taper run offs and not put any verticle welds as you wouldnt when joining an I-beam togeather. I havnt got a certifier involved as of yet and really should, might not have time before I do this next weekend.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Mike
Last edited by mike on Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by NuTTa »

Mike, see a local panel shop, they'll know how and what is required from the weld's, also you will probably need to get a repair certification for the modification to the chassis.



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mike
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Post by mike »

NuTTa wrote:Mike, see a local panel shop, they'll know how and what is required from the weld's, also you will probably need to get a repair certification for the modification to the chassis.



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Brendon


What is a repair certification? who does these? I thought it would just have to be certified like normal?

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Post by NuTTa »

The LN106 needed a repair cert cause of the water damage..lol..VTNZ used to do them ..but now they are contracted out, ring the vtnz and find out if and who does them in your area, from what they told me up here any modification to the chassis ( the chassis is deemed to be the vehicle not the body) would require a repair cert, they are happy to charge $400.00 up here for the pleasure of the cert.not sure if the complete vehicle cert covers it..you never know it might..


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Post by oldblue »

A couple of years ago, I made a FJ40 Crew Cab. The joins in the chassis where single V Butt , then I made up diamond plate's, which were cut from the old chassis steel.
the welding rods, low hydrogen type.
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cletus
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Re: Correct joining procedure when cutting a chassis

Post by cletus »

mike wrote:One for you cletus,

I've cut my disco chassis into two and taken 12 inches out of it. In those manuals of yours whats the required way or suggested method of joining a chassis back togeather to get through certification. At the moment its butted back togeather with a box sleeve on the inside. Next weekend I am about to plate it on the sides with plates that have long taper run offs and not put any verticle welds as you wouldnt when joining an I-beam togeather.

In the code of construction it says `the fishplate chassis join method is highly recommended at all stress points between front and rear axles`.
So what you`re describing sounds like it will be fine. Would be a good idea to get your certifier involved early, so if he sees any problems he can let you know.
There will be a new manual available soon, the Hobby Car Technical Manual, which has all the rules the certifiers have to follow, with explanations of the technical bits that make it easy for anyone to use.
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Post by mercutio »

woohoo are you working on the hybrid mike

it has been a while since the last installment
go hard dude :afro:
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Post by dixie »

There will be a new manual available soon, the Hobby Car Technical Manual, which has all the rules the certifiers have to follow, with explanations of the technical bits that make it easy for anyone to use.


Gday Cletus,where would one obtain one of these manuals once they are issued into circulation?

Cheers Mike.
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Post by mike »

mercutio wrote:woohoo are you working on the hybrid mike

it has been a while since the last installment
go hard dude :afro:


Yup tomorrow is the first day.
planned - take off rear tray, cut off back off chassis with drop saw - examine and mark out where to gas cut closer to axle for joining rear cross member on.

remove guards and bulkhead to get access for welding up chassis.

Will be heaps of fun.

Mike
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Post by Sadam_Husain »

I had 2 landrover chassis joined together about 20 years ago (before they had invented certification), a local welding guy did it for me. He cut through behind the cab (lwb flatdeck), emptied out about 20 litres of sand from inside the chassis from when the paua poachers owned it, he cut the ends square and butted them together then plated around the outsides. I drove the thing in at 8am and drove it away again at 4.30pm. :lol: :lol:

Seemed pretty straight forward :lol:
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Post by MudBum »

Mike,
Repair certifiers in ChCh are Neil Hesson,Gordon Taylor (Neil Hesson Certifiers) and Wayne Houghton (Perfect Autobodies)
8)
***Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance***

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Post by ruf_zuki »

"and not put any verticle welds as you wouldnt when joining an I-beam togeather."

???

If an I-beam needed to be welded in the vertical position in a building then you cant just lay it on its side and do it downhand can you!!!!!!!

vertical up welds are fine, vertical down welds are weak as shit,
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mike
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Post by mike »

ruf_zuki wrote:"and not put any verticle welds as you wouldnt when joining an I-beam togeather."

???

If an I-beam needed to be welded in the vertical position in a building then you cant just lay it on its side and do it downhand can you!!!!!!!

vertical up welds are fine, vertical down welds are weak as shit,


Oh no I meant after they have been butted togeather and welded. then you fish plate it, you don't put any verticle welds on the fish plate as the welds cause a weak point in the beam. Just what I was told.

Mike
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Post by JTop »

I think you are right Mike but I am self taught.
Also, I was told L/R fish plates have concave ends not convex so any cracks are led back under the supporting plate instead of down the chassis
J Top
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