Issues with brakes any ideas wanted box of beer reward

[mikeyt1689]

So any one have any ideas please tell me as tried everything i can think of and nothing is worked. I've got a brand new master cylinder new flexible rubber hose lines and not long ago put new slave cylinders in the back brakes and put new seals on the fronts discs. When i push the breaks the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor. I've adjusted the bit on the back, pushrod i think, so it's all the way back therefore should fix it but doesn't. the other issue is that when i do put the brakes on the rear 2 brakes and the front left work but getting no braking in the front right. As i said any ideas are apreciated if you are unclear on anything let me know and will clear it up.
PS box of beer reward is for the idea that works not for all ideas

[jonossiksilvia]

what type of car?

[mikeyt1689]

1988 Hilux Surf LN61

[jonossiksilvia]

perhaps pistons are seized in right front caliper. bleeding is a prick i've personally found in surfs

[quick6]

Wrong size slave cylinders? There are two sizes available and the parts guys won't neccessarily realise. Been there, had me stuffed for a while.....

[mikeyt1689]

Slave cylinder is right size i checked that salesperson was aware of it and had me bring in my old one before supplied me with the new one and tried another caliper off a truck that the brakes are working fine

[likemagic]

Hi,
have you tried getting power bleed from a brake place. If you have had the system apart it can be hard to get it properly bled, it sounds like you still have air in the system.

if you can't get to a brake place

You could try clamping the flex hoses to every wheel except the one you are bleeding, if you are doing a two person bled, one on the pedal and the other under the vehicle.

If you are trying to do it yourself, and have a vacuum source ( ie inlet manifold on petrol engine) then make a sealed jar with a short and long hose down onto it. the long hose goes to the brake nipple you are trying to bleed, the short hose goes to the vacuum source. Be careful how much you bled each time unless you have someone topping up the reservoir while you are dong this as it can all disappear in a big hurry.

Maurice

[quick6]

If you pump the pedal does it improve? If you pump it and hold it on does it creep away under your foot?

[mikeyt1689]

gets harder but creeps away when truck is off but if truck is on doesnt make much difference

[quick6]

Hmmm only thing I can think of is possibly having pinched one of the front seals putting them in, or needing more bleeding.

[mikeyt1689]

i've used a hand vaccum bleeder and also a two person bleed with the old up down on the pedal while opening and closing the bleed nipple even flow through all the brakes. i'm going to strip the new cylinder down and make sure that one isn't seized as i know the old one was a little bit sticky but the pistons on the old one did move just not the best. but that still don't make sense to me as to why the pedal goes so far down

[Big]

Could be crap in the end of the line..? otherwise take the caliper off and see if the piston moves.. if not it need replacing, if it does then something is blocking the system..
I'd start again and take the lines off everything.. blow air down them to double check they are free.. if they are all good then it'll be the the caliper/s
As 3 outter the 4 work.. seems like the probelm is the problem side..

[Crash bandicoot]

back flush the lines then check the seals in master cylinder are not the wrong way around.

[lax2wlg]

If air still suspected in system; Bleed the master cylinder by removing the lines going to it, plugging the holes while helper presses pedal w new fluid.

Double check the tightness of all hose/pipe flare connections, sealing washers, bleed valves.

Get a one man brake bleeding kit from Super Cheap ($16)

If there is air anywhere in the system it will be difficult to diagnose.
When bleeding individual wheels, push pedal slowly to floor and hold, check fluid level repeat. Continue till there is a solid flow of fluid in the bleeder. This may take a while as the fluid makes its way through proportioning valve etc

So full bleed - Start with the wheel the furthest away from the master cylinder, I'm guessing passenger rear. Then opposite wheel on same axle.Now move to front, passenger front, driver front.

[slide]

Have you checked wheelbearings for play? (anyone who laughs knows jack all about brakes- so ignore their comments )

[Smurf]

Have you checked wheelbearings for play? (anyone who laughs knows jack all about brakes- so ignore their comments )

This is a good point. I had a similar issue with my prado when I first bought it.
Though in Mikes case he is getting good braking on three wheels and nothing on the other. Loose wheel bearings would affect braking overall wouldn't it? I'm pretty sure thats how mine was, two or three pumps to get the brakes to work but it was all or none working.

[mikeyt1689]

what about wheel bearing being too tight?

[tow99]

From past experience i have run into issues with the load sensing proportion valve and found it easiest to disconnect the control arm and push it all the way up to get full braking to the rear during bleeding. Does your surf have a bleed nipple where the front lines t off from each other?

[mikeyt1689]

no it doesn't and have got a proportioning valve never had since i've had it and worked with out it

[mikeyt1689]

and no bleed nipple at the t either