Offroad-Express

They are easy to make. you will have to cut the original mounts off at the chassi rails, not only are they in the wrong place the torque from the straight six will rip them clean off the chassi rails.

get a piece of pipe with the internal diameter the same size as the bolt the holds the engine mount to the rail. get two bits of flat plate 5 ml thick one 60mm by 30 mm and the other 60mm by 90mm then two pieces triangle shaped that will go on the sides. the point of the triangle is where the pipe will be be welded parrellel to the chassis. this will allow the factory nissan mount to bolt striaght to it.

Do this for both sides. and set the pieces aside.


also you will need to get a flat plate 8mm thick 100 by 100 mm for the gearbox mount... use the nissan/commodore gearbox mount drill a hole in the flat plate where you see fit. and bolt it to the mount side that would normally rest on the crossmember.

now bolt your box and engine together and get it in the engine bay.(used a rb25 de clutch and pressure plate(Rb30 although bigger capacity is actually smaller then the later RB25de)

you will need to lift the front of the truck up for this aswell as using an engine crane to swing the gearbox in under the tunnel.

the key to positioning the engine and gearbox is the steering rack. the sump needs to clear this. it will fit but needs to be based on this calculation.

You will see the flat plate on the gearbox mount now rests on the hilux crossmember. center it and mark the plate and the crossmember.

Now center the engine. a good guide to this is the top of the plenum chamber is level not the cam covers. once level measure the center of the crank pulley to the inside edge of each chassi rail and the same with the out put shaft of the gearbox.if you look closely at a nissan skyline engine bay you will notice the engine slants to the left but the plenum chamber is level.

get some steel and wood blocks and rest it over the engine bay of the lux and using two ratchet strops(1 either side) tie the engine to it like a gantry.

release the load of the engine crane so the suspension of the truck takes the full wieght of its new power train. you can now see how much room there is between the sump and the steering. you can use the ratchets to adjust the height of the engine if need be...

once centered and the plenum is level you should have around 15mm of space between the engine and the firewall.

once happy with the location of the engine /gearbox you can weld the flat plate on the gearbox mount to the hilux crossmember and build the engine mounts to suit.

mine got certed with 15mm clearance at full lock but had to bolt a plate the the crossmember under the engine that came up to the sump closer then 15mm in the event an engine mount failed it wouldn't jam the steering arm.

You will need the bonnet from a early V6 surf to clear the nissans cambelt cover.

you will need to use a electric fan as there is no room for the viscus hub on the RB take it off. bolt the water pump pulley back on and grind the studs and shaft of the water pump off flush with the pulley. also use the nissan radiator.


if you chose to go 5 speed manual the shaft of the VL when cut off slides nice and tight inside the shaft of the hilux with no balancing needed. just weld right around the join..... you will have to grind the balancing wieghts of the VL shaft as that how tight a fit it is.

suzukisport wrote:Hey guys,
Just wanting to get peoples thoughts on what an RB26DETT would be like in an off roader.

I would be wanting to know what autos can be used on these motors to adapt to a transfer case.

slide wrote:

suzukisport wrote:Hey guys,
Just wanting to get peoples thoughts on what an RB26DETT would be like in an off roader.

I would be wanting to know what autos can be used on these motors to adapt to a transfer case.

What sort of offroader we talking here? I don't think a 26 is gunna be the best for rockcrawling, but for a trophy truck style racer- yea boi!

Mega loads of rb26dett information out there, try search skyline forums etc.

Auto box will be easy, pretty much any 4x4 box will bolt up, just use a rwd rb(20/25) bellhousing to suit.
However I would suggest the bigger RE4R03A will hold the power better than the smaller RE4R01A.

wax wrote:The rb30det will work awesome there low down grunt is impressive.
Heck if you need more low down then put lower diffs in it

Crash bandicoot wrote:

wax wrote:The rb30det will work awesome there low down grunt is impressive.
Heck if you need more low down then put lower diffs in it

the other side of the coin being with a RB30det does one really need low range?

Trundle wrote:The r32 26 are crap , have short cranks and crack oil pumps ,
the 33 motor is better solid lifter , long crank but crack the top of blocks still ,
your best bang for buck is a r34 neo rb25det , long crank , semi forged pistons , r33 gtr rods factory and can make 380rwkw on e85 or 350kw on pump ,

considering the neo 34 25det is only 2k , why would you spend 5k on a 26 that you have to convert the 4wd sump also the twin turbos are very averige, when you could spend the money and upgrade injectors fuel pump , and do a sinco manifold and uprated turbo , and piss out 300 plus kw ,

As for the rb30 with the 25det head ,unless you have built them before , and know how to make the oil returns , correct size restrictors , you are wasting your time , the 30's have no legs and i wouldnt reccomend revving them past 6200 if turboed ,
dont get me wrong there good but only if you want to spend 10k plus on a long engine ,

I have owned off roaders with rb30's and multiple drift cars with 25's also have a lot of customers with turbo 25's, 26's and 30 turbos ,

Trundle wrote:The r32 26 are crap , have short cranks and crack oil pumps ,
the 33 motor is better solid lifter , long crank but crack the top of blocks still ,
your best bang for buck is a r34 neo rb25det , long crank , semi forged pistons , r33 gtr rods factory and can make 380rwkw on e85 or 350kw on pump ,

considering the neo 34 25det is only 2k , why would you spend 5k on a 26 that you have to convert the 4wd sump also the twin turbos are very averige, when you could spend the money and upgrade injectors fuel pump , and do a sinco manifold and uprated turbo , and piss out 300 plus kw ,

As for the rb30 with the 25det head ,unless you have built them before , and know how to make the oil returns , correct size restrictors , you are wasting your time , the 30's have no legs and i wouldnt reccomend revving them past 6200 if turboed ,
dont get me wrong there good but only if you want to spend 10k plus on a long engine ,

I have owned off roaders with rb30's and multiple drift cars with 25's also have a lot of customers with turbo 25's, 26's and 30 turbos ,