Offroad-Express

1995 Nissan Terrano, TD27eti

I have recently noticed the the drivers door electric window is acting up. After starting up and driving down the road I am able to open the window and close it only ONCE. As soon as I try to adjust it again after the first time, nothing happens. That is until I stop (motor still running), then it allows me to open and close ONE time only, until I stop again. Any ideas?

Also have noticed that when the weather is wet or cold (or both) that the windows take a lot longer to wind up. Is this likely to be electrical or stiff rubbers (from being cold)???

Gidday - I had a similar problem with a D21 terrano... I also had to open and close the door before it would work ?!? Turned out to be a faulty electric window motor...
My windows on my 80 series also get slower in the wet, think its to do with the rubbers swelling... I think they are replaceable, there have been a few threads on here about it.

Cheers,

Jay

My R50 was doing the same thing when I brought it. It had a dodgy alternator which upset the electronics in the drivers window switch. All other windows worked perfect except the drivers.
Unplug the 2 pin plug on your alternator and start the engine, if the window works ok then look at a replacement alternator.

When I stripped my alternator (Im an auto electrician) it had a blown diode. I think this was causing a bad voltage ripple on the main output which upset the window switch.

ChurchurDan wrote:My R50 was doing the same thing when I brought it. It had a dodgy alternator which upset the electronics in the drivers window switch. All other windows worked perfect except the drivers.
Unplug the 2 pin plug on your alternator and start the engine, if the window works ok then look at a replacement alternator.

When I stripped my alternator (Im an auto electrician) it had a blown diode. I think this was causing a bad voltage ripple on the main output which upset the window switch.

Thanks heaps for the info! I think you've hit the nail on the head. Rather then unplug the pin, I just tried the window with key turned to AC but not starting the motor. Window worked fine with that setup. Then I started the car, with it just idling, again it worked fine. As soon as I revved the motor (causing the alternator to produce higher (max?) voltage) the windows stopped working. When I allowed the car to return to idle, the windows started again.

Is it hard to replace a diode?

Jay wrote:Gidday - I had a similar problem with a D21 terrano... I also had to open and close the door before it would work ?!? Turned out to be a faulty electric window motor...
My windows on my 80 series also get slower in the wet, think its to do with the rubbers swelling... I think they are replaceable, there have been a few threads on here about it.

Cheers,

Jay

Thanks for the info Jay. I will have a look for the other threads you mentioned. Cheers!

aidytheace wrote:Is it hard to replace a diode?

It can be a right pain to get to. Having to strip down the alternator.



I just replaced most of the internals in mine, since it was old and the brushes were nackered anyway.
New rectifier, regulator, brushes, bearings.

That alt is the early type vac pump unit and the diodes you circled are only the exciter diodes there a 6 more on that rectifier. They are the button things with a solid lead sticking up out of them.
The later unit is a non vac pump 100amp alternator and a rectifier is about $180-200 plus fitting. Normally they are not cost effective to repair and we just fit a new alternator.

ChurchurDan wrote:That alt is the early type vac pump unit and the diodes you circled are only the exciter diodes there a 6 more on that rectifier. They are the button things with a solid lead sticking up out of them.
The later unit is a non vac pump 100amp alternator and a rectifier is about $180-200 plus fitting. Normally they are not cost effective to repair and we just fit a new alternator.

Good to know, feck me, $180-$200. the exchange unit sounds reasonable then:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 177223.htm

Gees I bought all my parts for under $170, but can understand the labour portion. Was interesting soldering everything in.

We still rebuild a lot of the older ones as the bits are cheap but the later ones are not. That exchange unit is good value, you would pay that for a second hand unit at a wrecker.

ChurchurDan wrote:My R50 was doing the same thing when I brought it. It had a dodgy alternator which upset the electronics in the drivers window switch. All other windows worked perfect except the drivers.

UPDATE: Had the alternator tested and although it was still producing about 14.4V when revving there seemed to be some AC leakage. Discovered that it had been replaced within the last 12 months so was still under warranty. Took it out and sent it away. Turns out one side of the Rectifier was blown (parts all melted). New Rectifier and now electric windows work a treat! Cheers for all the help!!!