safari 24v to 12v reducer

[Waddles]

Well im having the safari head unit blues (as we all know about) After pissing around with this bloody thing i have decided to hardin up an just buy a after market reducer. Just want to know what amperage size should i go for? and what is the output of the factory one? I seem to be getting plenty off the acc wire but a real weak current of the bat(memory wire) do i just need to take the battery wire out of the factory reducer and into a new aftermarket one?

[ChurchurDan]

You need a 10 amp reducer. Assuming it is a new or newish radio the factory acc wire will be fine just get a single circuit reducer and fit it to the battery supply for the hazard switch. Thats how i normally do them at work.
The factory reducer has about 4 circuits and the batt supply for the radio is only a 5 amp circuit. You dont want to damage it as one of the circuits runs some of your instrument cluster.

[Waddles]

ok so i dont want to tamper with the factory 1 then

[andy3542]

I bought a 45amp (i think) last year and run head deck, trailer plug, air horn and 2 ciggy lighter sockets off it with no issues. Imho id go for bigger then you need so you dont run into issues when running more 12v things down he road.

Cheers

[tweake]

bigger the better. just watch your peak loading. that can be higher than fuse rating especially when dealing with audio gear and electric motors.

[3VILC]

Agreed, I used the factory ACC for head unit and a couple of other bits. But don't use the BATT one for anything really.
Reason being is the BATT (memory) wire on old stereos used be just that, a small memory circuit to keep the clock ticking and store radio stations, the rest of it was powered from the ACC circuit, and this is how the reducer in the safari is designed to run.
Whereas newer headunits (in the last 10 or so years at least) the much bigger amplifier circuits and everything else are all powered from the BATT wire, the ACC wire is just a lower current 'switch' to tell everything to turn on