Offroad-Express

Has anyone done this. TJ has 3" lift - will there be any driveshaft issues? I picked up the XJ HP off a wrecker and will be putting a Powermax No Slip in over winter (whats left of it). The plan is to then just bolt in place of the current low pin..

Also, Im not heavy on the gas so should I need to put 4030's in at the same time? or will stock axles be OK for now....

Keen to watch this thread...
I have been considering this upgrade...

Can I ask what the XJHPD30 cost ya...

I have fitted a XJ hpD30 to my TJ Wrangler. It bolts in. A HP 30 is surpose to be about 20% stronger than a LP 30. Mine has a full on detroit locker and 4.56 ring and pinion. In my oppinion a full on auto locker is the way to go, no switches, air compressors etc nothing to go wrong and it drives just fine on and off road. I would recomend you beef up the lower control arm brackets on the XJ diff as they are only a thin bit of pressed paper thin steel in standard form. The standard TJ drive shaft is fine for length.
The stock axles are fine however you need to periodicly (after every trip)check the U joints. Any sign of slop replace them with spicer u joints only. Take the oppourtunity and install outer axle tube seals to keep the crap out of the axle tubes.

Hi 00Falcon

The axle cost me $250 which did not include brakes and the dude has a bunch of XJ's in there so is bound to have more. The Guy is at 40 Cartwright Rd in Glen Eden. On your doorstep.

The powermax No Slip is effectively a lunchbox (full auto) so Im sure it will offer me what I need without being too harsh on the standard axles, u joint setup etc. This upgrade is mainly for mud n sand so wont see the huge stresses of MOAB. Im pretty light on the skinny pedal.

Hey Shoe - what size tyres are you running?

Jeeper wrote:Hi 00Falcon

The axle cost me $250 which did not include brakes and the dude has a bunch of XJ's in there so is bound to have more. The Guy is at 40 Cartwright Rd in Glen Eden. On your doorstep.

The powermax No Slip is effectively a lunchbox (full auto) so Im sure it will offer me what I need without being too harsh on the standard axles, u joint setup etc. This upgrade is mainly for mud n sand so wont see the huge stresses of MOAB. Im pretty light on the skinny pedal.

What ratio is it running...?

that..... i dont know and is the part im most nervous about. was thinking i might go back to wrecker and get ID tag to contact chrysler for build sheet. Or work out a method to count rotations etc.. Learning curve.

Maybe - teeth on crown wheel divided by teeth on pinion
ie 41 teeth / 8teeth = 5.125:1

Jeeper wrote:Maybe - teeth on crown wheel divided by teeth on pinion
ie 41 teeth / 8teeth = 5.125:1

Axle revolution to Pinon revolutions...
Cant be that hard can it...?
not that i ever have...

jeeper

I am running 32 inch mud tyres
All 4.0 petrol cherokees are 3.54 diff ratio
Call me on 021320985 for any other info

As I dive further into this Im concerned I will need a press to do a lot of the interchanging. All things considered I think Im going to stick with 3.07 gears. Im finding them fine for what I do thus far being sand and slush..The only other option I guess would be to switch out and run 3.57's in the rear... either way Im up to strip down and rebuild one of the two diffs...

Amateur question: For different ratios do both the teeth on the ring AND pinion change? Or just the ring? ie could I drop the carrier from the XJ HP Dana 30 and just change the ring??

Cheers for the note on the control arms too - Ill look into it.

Im just putting this here so I can reference it later on the fly:

Dana 30
Ring Gear DIAMETER 7.20"
10 3/8" X 24 RH THREADED BOLTS
XJ TJ CJ PINION Diameter @ inner bearing 1.376"
XJ CJ PINION Diameter @ outer bearing 1.125" ; 26 Spline
TJ type PINION Diameter @ outer bearing 1.187" ; 26 spline

XJ YJ reverse cut dana 30:
6 31/32" long pinion
Grand Cherokee ZJ: 1992-2001 (Front)
Cherokee XJ: 1984-2001 (Front)
Comanche pickup MJ: 1984-1991 1/2 (Front)
Wrangler YJ: 1987-1995 (Front)

std cut short pinion dana 30:
6 31/32" long pinion
TJ: 1997 - 2004 (Front)

std cut dana 30 Pinion length 8 9/16":
Aviator: 2003 - 2005 (Front)
Bronco: 1966 - 1971 (Front)
Jeep C101 67-74 (Most 86 and older D30's)
CJ5: 1971 - 1983 (Front)
CJ6: 1971 - 1983 (Front)
CJ7: 1976 - 1986 (Front)
CJ8: 1981 - 1986 (Front)
Comanche: 1986 - 1992 (Front)
Commando: 1972 - 1973 (Front)
Liberty: 2002 - 2005 (Front)
Scout II: 1972 - 1980 (Front)
Wagoneer: 1971 - 1973 (Front)
ZJ (Grand Cherokee): 1992 1/2 - 1996 (Front)

Did the NZ XJ's ever get delivered running 3.07's? - I had assumed the ones we got would all be running 3.73 but some sites seem to suggest 3.07's as an option for the autos. Would be grouse if they did - bung the locker in and bolt her up.... Anyone??

So - Update

Went for 3.54 R&P swap into the Dana 44 to match the front seeing as Im running 32's and thinking maybe 33's. Also have a full set of Rokmen arms with JJ's on their way for the swap now too. Parts list for swap as follows:

HPD30 Donor from non disco XJ
Powertrax Locker
Master install kits for both axles
3.54 Ring n Pin for rear.
Rokmen Arms
New steering box and skid
Front LCA brackets to beef up the ones on the donor.

Anyone have experience with just how hard the setup of the pinion is on this job ie is it worth paying Dif Specs the $$$ to do the job....

I got my locker set up ....to much coin in it for me to do one of my hack jobbies .....

Agreed. Booked in at Diff Specs after the third worst service Ive ever receieved from Steelie Gears. Rokmen arms are the business too - arrived today - sooooooo beefy.

Jeeper wrote:Agreed. Booked in at Diff Specs after the third worst service Ive ever receieved from Steelie Gears. Rokmen arms are the business too - arrived today - sooooooo beefy.

do you know how much roughly it's going to cost?

I've got rebuild kits for my diffs + new ratios + lockers to get installed. Dreading how much that is going to cost.

It seems the std is about 400 per diff

All done high pinion swap done with Rokmen arms top and bottom, front and rear and locker installed also. Just racking up my wear in Kms before hitting the trail.

Ok hijacking my own thread (captive audience and all that). 32rh breather re location. C'mon we're kiwis is there really no other option than dropping the trans to re tap and re route. Does anyone have a pic of this breather up close??

I'm starting a custom air box to work off the banks air kit I have and a river raider style snorkel but it's all in vain if I have to rebuild the trans post a swim any higher than my sills. Even if I take it slow now (lesson learnt post tps saga) it doesn't matter if my intake is headlight height with that pesky breather above te bell housing.....

theres a link in there ....


http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 32&t=23688