Offroad-Express

Hi all.

Im currently rebuilding my hubs, swivels etc. i have tried searching but cant find the info im after (maybe wrong words being used )

Anyway im wanting to know if i can replace the power locking rings with normal nut set up? im running factory hubs that are now manual engagement.
the annoying issue is every time i have to undo the t20 screws i snap my t20 bits trying to undo them - even when they are set at right torque.




If it isnt possible to add the second nut then is there an alternative solution instead of t20 screws others have used?

Second issue:

Ive brought a terrain tamer rebuild kit and it didnt include the outter seal (circled in red in following pic). i know the tt kits suit the aussie trucks. is this still needed as im not running the electric engagement side now as, as far as i can tell its only need for that?

Cheers john

The red seal is only fitted to Electric hubs to stop grease from entering the carbon, so no problems leaving it out. You can buy this seal from Toyota.
2; These screws do not need to be very tight, and you could apply some grease to the CSK part of the screw.
or you can buy some Allan head CSK machine screws and alter the taper ( CSK )from 90deg to 60deg.or do the same to Cap screws.
The problem is that the key tab on electric type nuts is on the outer nut, and the key tab on none electric type is on the inner washer so I would try and stick with the electric type nuts.

I have a similar setup but ditched the torx bits and use ordinary phillips head screws. They don't need to be tight or locked in with thread lock..
All they do is hold the locking ring / brush slip ring in place
You can go and use the older twin nut and tab washer way but IMHO its a step back and they always seem to back off....
Mine have been like that for over 10 years now and no troubles pulling them down for a service...

You can use the locking ring if you dremel down the top of the spindle ... have you tried new screws only $2 each from toyota ... try a bit of copper coat on the threads as well

Invest in a good Tork driver bit not the cheap stuff, they always snap off.

hi guys.

cheers for all the replies.

1) i wont bother getting and fitting that outer seal.

2) ill use the standard setup using the power locking ring, get new screws and on just nip them up with copper coat and see if that helps for next time.


Torx bits i was using were decent quality ones too as we use them for work just with pan head screws instead

Maybe this is what you need ???

I been thinking of buying some.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/yotamain/4runner/toyota-front-axle-parts/4130-chromoly-spindle-wheel-bearing-nut-kit-trail-gear-300519-kit.html

kbushnz wrote:I have a similar setup but ditched the torx bits and use ordinary phillips head screws. They don't need to be tight or locked in with thread lock..
All they do is hold the locking ring / brush slip ring in place
You can go and use the older twin nut and tab washer way but IMHO its a step back and they always seem to back off....
Mine have been like that for over 10 years now and no troubles pulling them down for a service...

I agree, With the twin nut and tab washer they need adjusting every WOF, didn't happen with the prado

Would there be some interest in these,

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/yotamain/4runner/toyota-front-axle-parts/4130-chromoly-spindle-wheel-bearing-nut-kit-trail-gear-300519-kit.html

wondering if I should get some in my next shipment.

Cheers
Tim

I would be...

I'd be interested