Offroad-Express

Seems that my Pinion bearing in my front diff is poked and the seal is gone also with oil leaking.

Got a quote from gearbox/diff place to make the bearings and replace, but cost is likley 800-1000 bucks which isnt all that attractive when i can get a new diff for less.

I see some AU place lists bearing kits including seals on Trademe for older models and doesnt reply to questions it seems.

Anyone know where to start looking for this in NZ ?

What make, What model. SKF ,tremaine ave palmy north had the bearings for my hilux surf and a place just up the road and on the other side(can't remember the name) had the pinion nut,seal and washers and shims.

all up i think it was like 180 for 4 bearings and 56 for pinion nut washers etc.

Hey man, I paid ~$300 for a replacement GV diff. If you just get the bearing the pinion depth might need to be reset which is why I suspect the quotes are around around the $1000. Might be easier to get a second hand unit.

SJ? By now most of them are poked, 110 UDS for 4 bearings, shims, pinion nut and seal etc... a few of them OEM parts another few bucks for a DTI. A lot of NZ companies are pirates - have you had any other quotes?

If you go for a secondhand diff you can get your GV 26 spline sidegears put in an older style diff and get rid of the air actuator at the same time.
Don't know the specifics as my replacement diff came assembled like that.

thanks guys for the suggestions, I was under the truck tonight and found the housing has a massive crack from last weekends outing and now the pinion bearing and housing is f$5kd is its prob time to look at other options,

nstacey- i like that idea of getting rid of the air actuator and prob would have gone that route however im getting a air locker for the front diff so that should get that gone.

churchill- hey mate, yeah i got quoted 500 just for diff head today which i thought was a bit pricey.... im looking at going steel diff now

Mate go steal, your never have to worrie about the alloy cracking again an it will pay for it's self in the long run.. I know a guy who when through 6 alloy diff's before he said farrk this an got a yota

That'll do it... Steel ones are the way to go. What free wheel setup do you have on yours?

churchill wrote:That'll do it... Steel ones are the way to go. What free wheel setup do you have on yours?

Ive got the factory auto hubs in the front, should be 26 spline, 5.x ratio I think you confirmed when you did my rear diff.

What id like to have, and be clear how to get there ( which is all abit confusing for me ) is;

Id like to get steel housing
Id like to get rid of the air actuator in the front because its poxy
Id like to be able to fit the RD88 front air locker at a later date

Id like to be able to go harder, faster, higher, deeper than clay on any given track, LOL

You will need:

-Steel housing and third member with 5.125 ratio ring and pinion.
-Get it fitted with the 2 spider carrier with the 26 spline side gears, NOT the vacuum operated free wheel carrier.
-RH CV and LH shaft from a 26 spline non vacuum front diff.
-Free wheel hubs. Get the Aisin brand ones if you can as they use cones to stop free play at the bolt flange.

With a little machining of the bearing cap the locker should fit in. I'd recommend using one of those nylon bushes to support the RH cv whilst your're at it.

Id like to be able to go harder, faster, higher, deeper than clay on any given track, LOL[/quote]


haha Mate you'll have too get a V6 to do that...

A steely with air locker would do the trick,
I want to do the stub axle for the driver's side, I had the two CV's next too each other today an the driver's side is roughtly a inch shorter which is good i can cut the CV input an get the flange welded too it with room too clear the diff mounts in theory i would like too run it by Win before i do any cutting

Id like to be able to go harder, faster, higher, deeper than clay on any given track, LOL

Just make sure your bolts are in and tightened....

Hey Clay, check the axle length between the 2 cv's on each side as well, I'm pretty sure the RH one is sorter then the LH. Might has to keep the short one on the RH cv

I saw a trick to keep the cv tucked in tightly where someone used countersunk bolts to hold the diff mount brackets on. If this is not enough the three cv attachment bolts can be countersunk as well.

Haha Yes that's too true double check the bolt's are tight LOL
It turn's out the nut welded to the pinion mount plate that bolt's to the c member had snapped shear off. What a waste of a new angled bush from vit4bits man haha.

Cheers Win ill check the axle length's

Yes i have seen the countersunk bolts to hold the bottem diff mount, Think thats a brillent idea.
I was thinking ill countersink the cv as well but once there all in ill weld the 3 countersunk bolt's to the new flange for easyer CV swap, save's fiddling around with an allen key to lossen an tighten, well that's if it will allow the cv to be pulled out over the bolt's thread whilst in the truck ??

Sure the nut snapped off man, sure...

Yeah that would piss you off loosing the angled mount considering it was brand new.

Thats a good idea about welding the Countersinks in, heaps easier to change! Defiantly check first.

Just a thought, could welding affect the breaking strength of the bolt?

True too tell you the truth i wouldn't have a clue I'd like too think of it as strengthening the bolt's, heat treatment
I'd assume it would be fine... ?

Maybe someone could answer this

Almost certainly will effect the bolt strength if heated too much in the wrong place. I try and keep the heat affected zone small and away from any load areas. In this case probably a few small spots around the circumference of the countersink head won't effect thing drastically, all that is needed is enough to resist the torque load of undoing and tightening. The rest of the bolt head can carry the tensile load.

I have purchased:

-Steel housing and third member with 5.125 ratio ring and pinion.
-2 spider carrier with the 26 spline side gears, NOT the vacuum operated free wheel carrier.
-RH CV and LH shaft from a 26 spline non vacuum front diff.

sexy sexy

Time to start collecting spare C.V's now