Offroad-Express

Just got it going , going out to woodhill this weekend to give it a proper try,just going up and down my driveway i saw just on 2Bar

Turbos are a T28 and a GT35

Very cool, We did that to a qd32 it really wakes them up. Its going to go like the proverbial rocket.

Sweet work! Did you do math to work out turbo sizes? Or just give it a guess and go for it?
Keen to see some videos of this weapon in action

awesome! Well done.Am keen to do this on one of my 1jz or 2jz toyota motors.
I suggest(IMHO) that if it works how you want it, then get in and do some heat wrapping or ceramic coating to keep engine bay temps under control.

just all guess work and i got a lovely selection of old rusty turbos to try out,the t28 may be a little on the small side

slide wrote:Sweet work! Did you do math to work out turbo sizes? Or just give it a guess and go for it?
Keen to see some videos of this weapon in action

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxPXNB2 ... vDYYTWYelA

this was on 15-18psi about a month ago it went allright

what were the egts up to?
be interested to see how it go's and what it sounds like...

May be join a club and learn how to recover a vehicle safely before you injure some one or worse.

what injection pump are you running?

klompy wrote:May be join a club and learn how to recover a vehicle safely before you injure some one or worse.

X2
Drop me a line if interested,

Cheers,
Simon Collett
President
Norwest OHV Club Inc

slidenyo wrote:what were the egts up to?
be interested to see how it go's and what it sounds like...

On 15-18psi was getting up towards 500c , on the motor way it would get real hot, to much fuel,2 bar should sort this.

tweake wrote:what injection pump are you running?

Stock non turbo pump with screw wound right up and an electric lift pump(mighty facet)

I would say egt are going to be low in that thing due to the amount of air going in

bombaybasher wrote:

tweake wrote:what injection pump are you running?

Stock non turbo pump with screw wound right up and an electric lift pump(mighty facet)

your not going to much power out of it until you get a decent pump built for it. while its way cool to have compound turbo it's severally handicapped by the fuel system.
the facet pump would be causing a restriction. need one (or even two) hiflow cater pumps.

add a god IP, inlet manifold lid lift with front intake, new clutch and then see how long the crank lasts

at the moment stock pump is fine at these levels, getting 420 degrees at 28psi boost loading it for 2mins which is pretty much perfect. adding more electric pumps wont make any difference as the amount off fuel delivered is only what the injector pump plunger can supply, the electric pump which im running at the moment just gets rid of any air bubbles which may be created from a worn lift pump. as for 'just looking good' this is not the case as i get a smooth spread of boost right from 1000rpm all the way out to 4000rpm or what ever you are keen to rev it to, compared to running for instance a gt28 which will not boost this early. I admit next step im in process of doing an injector pump with 12mm plunger, but as it is now was cheap to do and is just a bit of fun and safe power level for my engine. Also it has already got a custom auto clutch built setup with a 5700lb pressure plate and 6 puck kevlar/ceramic plate. As for the crank, they are good for 350 flywheel hp if tuned correctly. Also ive never really seen much of a gain with after market manifolds on diesel engines-I look at all the small marine engines which i dyno at work and all run ugly log type manifolds and all these marine engines are rated alot higher than there automotive use, same thing with all the big commercial/industrial engines- Just a thought from what ive seen.

Sounds like you've got most of it sussed but the turbo guru's are smashing td42 cranks in Aust with td05's and 200rwkw plus, just saying the cranks aren't bullet proof.

yea good point, i here these things all the time but i like to try it myself and test the theory then see what happens, if they are built anything like nissan petrol engines they should handle quite a bit more than factory- though it all comes down to tuning and revs. All good fun

The intakes manifold on the td42 doesnt flow the air correctly when you get up in boost and it makes the 1 and 6 cylinders run hot. Though with the 11mm pump you may not get enough fuel into cause this to be an issue

just on the electric lift pump, the problem they have is the IP's internal pump can't draw up enough fuel fast enough. usually a 75-100gph pump is required. a stock pump would pump 50gph from and back to the tank easy enough.
the facet would only be providing pressure at idle and causing a restriction the rest of the time.

isn't the stock atmo pumps only 10mm if that ? stock turbo pump is 11mm.

i just see a new post on patrol4x4, getting 150rwkw at a measly 22psi with stock 11mm pump.
now a compound turbo running 40-50 psi with 12mm pump.......

The stock ve pump gets into cavataion issues and thats why the facet pump is such a good thing

Standard non-turbo GQ pumps are 10mm. From Series II turbo GQ and GU pumps are 11mm etc. Electric helper pumps mitigate some of the injection pump cavitation issues. But you’re still using standard fuel lines which should really be upgraded also.

As others have said, the cranks are not bullet-proof. 200-210KW or there abouts seems to be a consistent limit to them in stock form. I’d say it is a lot lower than that if you want outright reliability.

Stock inlet manifolds are a major limitation! Plenum style helps considerably for uniform air delivery.

Then you’ll start having issues with injectors, intake temps, EGT’s, insufficient coolant through the head, excess blow-by………. All fun and games!

Anyone in NZ broken a crank in a TD42 yet?

Not that I'm aware of, but I know of 4 in AU over the last 18 months. Most are high psi setups (I.e. 35-40psi), with 13mm or 14mm pumps, so the forces involved are ridiculous!

200kw seems to be a consistent figure where reliability just goes out the window, unless you're prepared to spend big dollars to make it hold together...billet crank etc.

They must shite torque at 200kw

Id say it would be rpms would be the only thing to snap a crank

I suspect the cranks are an imbalance issue, exacerbated by the high psi set ups. They're still governed around 5,500rpm. Peak torque remains about 3,800rpm from memory.

They are all typically failing at No. 5 or No. 6.

it should be nice and muddy this weekend , if anyone else is going out to woodhill keep your eye out for bits of bottom end, we trailer the patrol out there so its even more of an exuse to show no mechanical sympathy whats so ever, the poor old bottom end is going to get such a hiding, ill take some footage(without dangerous recovery tactics) and if she holds together at least we may know the limit of factory bottom end abuse, its a 400,000k bottom end , i salvaged the patrol off a guys farm,he was using it to put hay out!
Ive balanced lots of cranks from sprint car engines to 1000hp diesel mercs and factory balanced cranks are pretty much the best zero balance i have come across, the after market stuff is horrendously bad, the only reason i could think of a snapped crank would be from high ks, too much timing,hammered bearings and lots of heat causing excessive knock-pretty much everything that my motor is going to get this weekend.

bombaybasher wrote:the only reason i could think of a snapped crank would be from high ks, too much timing,hammered bearings and lots of heat causing excessive knock-pretty much everything that my motor is going to get this weekend.

can't wait for vids!

Fricken sweet, you might beat us to the fabled broken crank syndrome. Good luck