Offroad-Express

I have replaced the airbox on my Terrano with a bigger one from a Hilux? to allow for more airflow since I upgraded the motor to the QD32 from the old TD27.

Because of this I had to use a new pipe from the airbox to the turbo and had to remove the return hose from the tappet cover breather.




When we pulled the old airbox and hoses out it was noted that there was oil getting back into the turbo from the tappet breather. I elected to put my old oil catch can back on to alleviate this.

The black hose goes to the tappet breather and the blue one hangs loose.

Should I plumb the blue hose back into the outlet of the airbox as it was before,

as seen by the T on the old pipework, or leave it hanging? I do not want to risk water getting into it too.

This is where it could be plumbed back?

Plumb it back. The oil should collect in the catchcan.

Hey Pete

I run mine down into the chassis rail. Helps with rust prevention.
Also with diesels they have a higher blow-by pressure, so air pollution from the catch can into your intake is still there, if you run it back into your intake

fullthrottle wrote:Hey Pete

I run mine down into the chassis rail. Helps with rust prevention.
Also with diesels they have a higher blow-by pressure, so air pollution from the catch can into your intake is still there, if you run it back into your intake

All well and good, but I do not like the idea of oil dripping anywhere, call me Mr fussy

Mattman wrote:Plumb it back. The oil should collect in the catchcan.

I'm starting to think this might be the way to go.

kiwipete wrote:

fullthrottle wrote:Hey Pete

I run mine down into the chassis rail. Helps with rust prevention.
Also with diesels they have a higher blow-by pressure, so air pollution from the catch can into your intake is still there, if you run it back into your intake

All well and good, but I do not like the idea of oil dripping anywhere, call me Mr fussy

It shouldn't be dripping any oil with a catch-can. Just blowing oily fumes

Use a catch can sized for the amount of blow by. Catch cans work best with low velocity air.

Use a proper catch can, not just a tin can with fittings often sold as a 'catch can' on tardeme.

4WDbits wrote:Use a catch can sized for the amount of blow by. Catch cans work best with low velocity air.

Use a proper catch can, not just a tin can with fittings often sold as a 'catch can' on tardeme.

Thanks, i think. Im more confused by your statement than ever now

^ in essence: buy the bigges tone you can fit (2litres is a good size)
chuck it on
good to go.

Whats the difference between a "proper" one and a "tin can with fittings"?

Not being a smart arse, Just don't know much about them.

shortylux wrote:Whats the difference between a "proper" one and a "tin can with fittings"?

Not being a smart arse, Just don't know much about them.

Baffles etc so the oil vapour has somewhere to condense on.
I bought a cheapie tin can and put steel wool half way up the can with a tube running from the top, through to the bottom of the steel wool. no problems so far.

fullthrottle wrote:I run mine down into the chassis rail. Helps with rust prevention.
It shouldn't be dripping any oil with a catch-can. Just blowing oily fumes

Me too. One hose and forget about it.
The engine compartment is small in the Terrano.
Primo ideas though

ps Ants I saved some LSD shims for you

don't td27t engines have a pcv valve on top of the rocker cover? do they pressureise the sump without a slight amount of vacuum created by the intake pipe pre turbo?

Petes is now a QD32
I have done as Ants and Josh have and never seem to get any drips out the end of the breather. I find that with the return plumbed back into intake pre-turbo the vacuum sort of sucks the crankcase fumes out of the rocker cover and are ladened with oil mist resulting in a heavy oil deposit through turbo and crossover pipe, not to mention intake manifold.
I agree with the others and say block it off.
The ultimate setup would be (imho), send crank breather through a few laps of copper tube mounted high on firewall, then into catch can mounted lower down. The theory is that the oil mist condenses in the copper and then dribbles down to the catch can where it is collected. Catch can needs to be of a significant volume so as the oil level inside is not picked up by the movement of the normal amount of breathing.
Food for thought.

Cheers,

Edit; could put one of these on the can outlet,
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 322863.htm

I am looking at something like this unit, as I could remove the top and place some stainless gauze in it for the fumes to condensate on?



What do you all think?

The one I have at present (see picture at the top of the post) is a sealed unit and I notice some oil starting to drip from the open end of the blue tube.

That's the unit I have and have also fitted mine with stainless mesh wool. Works well. Used cheap heater hose to plumb it up.

Matt.

get some stainless lathe swarf from an engineer to chuck in there.
also, best idea ever is to put a small ball valve and a bit of hose extending down a bit so it's easier to drain. jus topen it on some jokers lawn and let it go from time to time lol

Cameron wrote: just open it on some jokers lawn and let it go from time to time lol

Really? If it's that easy to drain, surely the least we could do would be dispose of the oil responsibly. As 4wders we aren't exactly gods gift to the environment, but we can at least do the easy stuff right.

Also, the way I am imagining this, wouldn't the ball valve roll out (and thus drain the oil) any time you got the truck on a reasonable angle? Or am I imagining this all wrong?

nah ball valves are just 'taps'
[imghttp://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/653481046/5pcs-1-4-BSP-Female-Full-Ports-Connection-font-b-Brass-b-font-Thread-Pipe-font.jpg_250x250.jpg[/img]

Oil lawn was tongue in cheek too, dude. if you add a rubber tube that comes down near the chassis rail then it makes it super easy to stand an old oil bottle underneath and drain it spill and mess free, super easily.
It's what I do with mine. it's mostly condensation that collects in my car's catch tank but I have a tube setup which I can poke into an old coke bottle to empty it and then add to my waste oil drum.

Cameron wrote:Oil lawn was tongue in cheek too, dude.

Sorry bro. I hoped it was but wasn't sure.
You just struck a bit of a nerve. I work in the bush a bit and occasionally see people doing an "oil change" ie dumping their oil straight out of the vehicle and then filling up. It pisses me off.

yeah it's pretty horrific what people pass off as ok out there still!

Cameron wrote:nah ball valves are just 'taps'

Fixed it for ya

Oh right. I was imagining something like the roll over valves, where the ball rolls in and blocks off if you roll. Silly me.

chur. I think they're called check valves?

put a coke bottle catch can on a vw I'm mucking round with tonight. bloody thing's blowing about a litre of oil out of it every couple of hours of engine running.
time for a re-ring I think

i built a catch can for my TD42 I use to run. The breather from the rocker cover went to the bottom of the can, there was steel wool inside to catch the oil and a filter on top. When you turned the motor off the oil would then just drain back into the motor so never needed emptying. Just had to make sure the catch can was really high as if it got water into it that would drain back to the motor as well. But I never had a problem with that and that truck did a fair few winch challenges in 2005 / 06 when there was still deep water.

darinz wrote:i built a catch can for my TD42 I use to run. The breather from the rocker cover went to the bottom of the can, there was steel wool inside to catch the oil and a filter on top. When you turned the motor off the oil would then just drain back into the motor so never needed emptying. Just had to make sure the catch can was really high as if it got water into it that would drain back to the motor as well. But I never had a problem with that and that truck did a fair few winch challenges in 2005 / 06 when there was still deep water.

Thats a similar setup to what we had, but we found the pitfall when the truck was on its side for a while, where the oil drains back into the engine it can also drain out of the engine, through the breather and onto the ground.

We now run a closed positive crankcase ventilation system which a lot of later model engines use as standard.

There's a simple solution to that. Don't lie it on it's side!

How about plumbing the drain back into the dipstick tube. Easy as welding a tee fitting and all the oil drains back into the sump. No need to empty, no mess and you can just forget about it.

All sorted now, thanks for all the ideas chaps.

Here's what I ended up doing, good or bad, it works for me



Sometime after I get back from the Safari, (no time left now), I will get some of those stainless steel pot scrub buds from the supermarket and put them in the can, with a little bit of stainless gauze to prevent any nasties escaping too. So far I have not noticed any oil entering the transparent outlet tube, be interesting to see how it looks in two weeks.