Offroad-Express

So I am looking for helpful advice in fitting above profile rubber to a NT zook. Am looking for offsets lifts cutting etc that have worked but prefer low and lazy. I realise the trans gears need attention - but they did with the 30's so will go straight to 6.5's when budget allows. (G16 in the process of being fitted so no drivie atm)

Any help appreciated thanks

There is a guy on Auszookers steve125 I think that has 750x16s on a NT with just a 2" body lift using standard SJ 16" rims. The 235's are a bit wider though and might hit guards.

i wouldnt reccomend the 6.5s when you do, they are just too low. Has mine out banks peninsula today with my rocklobster in that i just made and its plenty low, didnt even need to use first gear, and thats with 33's

Thanks for the help, I suppose if 7.0 16's can fit with a bl then the above will work with a little scheming. Interesting about the 6.5's being too low with 33's. The 30s on atm are around 29 and the "new" 235s are an honest 3" taller. When towin a small loaded trailer an std gears I used low range and still did 85 - 95 so def will need some sort of gears...

31s are so easy to fit; cheaper for replacement too.
I drove and went offroading for over a year on standard gears.
I went to lowrangeoffroad.com and bought 4.9:1 gears, best gearing I could have asked for. Drives like standard and 4low is much improved, can still pull away comfy in 3rd.
In terms of lift its 2" leafs, shocks and 2" longer shackles.

If you drive in chch though, it is a c*nt how stiff the suspension is on the roads.

wayfastwhitee wrote:If you drive in chch though, it is a c*nt how stiff the suspension is on the roads.

Just out of interest what sort of angle are your spring shackles on, are they vertical or close to it?

I was talking to a wheel firm today, and if they weld in new centers to some steelies I have to achieve a 5x 139.5 PCD will these pass a warrent / cert etc - will these be legit? (like the inside 180 odd mm).

Also reading through the low volume cert stuff about welding steering components a big no no, but fkn most of the stuff in the SJ is welded from the factory, and it looks like a kid did it? Getting to the point thinking about making up my own "Z" link - off the pittman arm outta 4140 solid or something

In general a tube will be stronger than a bar . So to make up a drag link a bit of tube threaded each end and then sorce a couple of balljoints each end , no welding required . Have a look at redzuk's post on parts for sale , he has done something like that .

I would not recomend a bending the drag link anyway , it will not correct the bump steer . I think you would be better off looking for a drop pitman arm .

Also I have been told that some steering parts can be welding , its all about how the joint is . But I have never read the actual rules as I have not hit that wall yet .

Chris

I like the idea of straight and tube. I've been looking at it and any idea if "High steer" bolted through the brake caliper bolts will be OK? (with suitable steel).

I assume doing a panhard rod in the front from the passenger chassis rail to around the top of the diff will help with the front. Any pointers on a "traction bar" for the rear??

edit :Also will above high steer "if" slightly shorter allow the front diff to move foward without binding?