Anyone made bearing retainers and flanges for sr20 fwd box

[You Get That]

I'm looking to make some bearing retainers and hilux flanges for my sr20 axle stubs for running the gbox as a transfer case, front seems easy enough slide a bearing over the stub then get the end splinded by a engineer, but for the rear there is no length in the stub so wondering if people have cut and welded or mabey used another front stub adapted.

Even better anyone got any for sale haha.
cheers.

[Crash bandicoot]

I'm looking to make some bearing retainers and hilux flanges for my sr20 axle stubs for running the gbox as a transfer case, front seems easy enough slide a bearing over the stub then get the end splinded by a engineer, but for the rear there is no length in the stub so wondering if people have cut and welded or mabey used another front stub adapted.

Even better anyone got any for sale haha.
cheers.

I assume this is a FWD box? if so What would have been the driver side should be a piece of cake. use the carrier bearing that would normally bolt to the engine block and just shorten the driver side drive shaft so that carrier is right next to the gearbox casing, tig weld a new mount yo bolt the carrier to the gearbox casing then weld the hilux flange to the end of where the tripod joint would go. this will retain what will now be the front out put.

The rear shouldn't be too much different(or left hand side) may pay to go to nick-a-part and grab the right hand drive shaft and carrier from a P10 primera etc and do the same if there isn't enough to work with,,,
from memory the left hand side inner axle/tripod joint is retained by a a circlip anyway

question is how you going to get on with a 50/50 split?

[You Get That]

cheers mate ya think it would handle it just welding the flange on? might have to find another front stub.

by 50/50 split do you mean gearbox placement? i got the engine pushed back a wee bit witch leaves a bit for the front d shaft.

[Crash bandicoot]

cheers mate ya think it would handle it just welding the flange on? might have to find another front stub.

by 50/50 split do you mean gearbox placement? i got the engine pushed back a wee bit witch leaves a bit for the front d shaft.

how do you intend to lock the diff so the front and rear axle get even power.

if you cut back the tripod joint cups and weld the flange to the cup the the diameter of the cup (around 120mm roughly) combined with a weld right around should provide enough surface area to do the job.

The carrier bearings are only there to act as a retainer to keep the spline/ shafts and seals in place and in line with the differential in the diff casing there shouldn't be any lateral forces applied to it.

what engine are you using? should be good for 200-250 horse as the GTIR pulsar employs the same set up to power its front wheels. It just has an extra out put to the rear.

when bolting up the box the configuration will off set the transfer case to the drivers side so may pay to check clearances for the drive shafts to the front and rear axles make sure they dont foul on any cross members/ fuel tank etc.

[Rotazuk]

Not used an SR20 box myself but from what I have been told ....
There are two types of box , primera and pulsar lets say . One needs a front bearing the other one does not . It is all to do with the carrier bearing crash talks about , ie wether it has one or not . I think the primera does and the pulsar does not , maybe due to the extra width .

The rear should not need a bearing . In the car this goes straight to the cv so it has enough of a bearing to take the change of angle of a cv and that seems to be enough for some of the bush/trials trucks out there . If the front has a carrier bearing there is no bearing at the box , just a seal as it is supported at the bearing .

Chris

[You Get That]

going to pull the diff out and get it welded, that's my next problem.....

motor is sr20de out of a bluebird i have here don't really know what hp it will be it will be interesting to see how it go's

motor is allready mounted in chassis so clearances look ok front dshaft its lil short so will probley have to get a hi pinion diff

sounds good what you say about the rear cup mount but i don't know if the inside circlip will handle the stress pulling on it if it does

[You Get That]

Not used an SR20 box myself but from what I have been told ....
There are two types of box , primera and pulsar lets say . One needs a front bearing the other one does not . It is all to do with the carrier bearing crash talks about , ie wether it has one or not . I think the primera does and the pulsar does not , maybe due to the extra width .

The rear should not need a bearing . In the car this goes straight to the cv so it has enough of a bearing to take the change of angle of a cv and that seems to be enough for some of the bush/trials trucks out there . If the front has a carrier bearing there is no bearing at the box , just a seal as it is supported at the bearing .

Chris

Thanks makes sence the bluebird had that carryer so i will need to put a bearing on the front then and that doesn't seen too hard.

Mite try go without on the rear then and just weld to the cup like crash says, will see how the inside circlip holds first.

[Crash bandicoot]

going to pull the diff out and get it welded, that's my next problem.....

motor is sr20de out of a bluebird i have here don't really know what hp it will be it will be interesting to see how it go's

motor is allready mounted in chassis so clearances look ok front dshaft its lil short so will probley have to get a hi pinion diff

sounds good what you say about the rear cup mount but i don't know if the inside circlip will handle the stress pulling on it if it does

rotozuk is correct you shouldnt need a retainer/carrier for the rear(left). how ever murpphy's law dictates that is the side with the most room to do it.

neither the front or rear should have any pull on it and if you have done a few engine gearbox changes on primera's blue birds etc you know that circlip aint coming out with out a Wrestling match.... especially if everythings covered in old engine oil etc.

The standard SR20 is about 135-40 horse at the flywheel so no great need to beef up the drive line really.

the other trick is to get double yoke's for the front drive shaft if ya can't get ya hands on a a high pinion diff.

OR failing that get the front diff head carrier cut and turn a few degrees upwards and rewelded. this would probably be competetive pricing wise then buying double yokes and getting them fitted to the drive shaft.,

getting ya hands on a silvia/180 inlet manifold will help heaps to as the FWD inlet will be facing the fire wall. saves customising the intake etc.

[You Get That]

going to pull the diff out and get it welded, that's my next problem.....

motor is sr20de out of a bluebird i have here don't really know what hp it will be it will be interesting to see how it go's

motor is allready mounted in chassis so clearances look ok front dshaft its lil short so will probley have to get a hi pinion diff

sounds good what you say about the rear cup mount but i don't know if the inside circlip will handle the stress pulling on it if it does

rotozuk is correct you shouldnt need a retainer/carrier for the rear(left). how ever murpphy's law dictates that is the side with the most room to do it.

neither the front or rear should have any pull on it and if you have done a few engine gearbox changes on primera's blue birds etc you know that circlip aint coming out with out a Wrestling match.... especially if everythings covered in old engine oil etc.

The standard SR20 is about 135-40 horse at the flywheel so no great need to beef up the drive line really.

the other trick is to get double yoke's for the front drive shaft if ya can't get ya hands on a a high pinion diff.

OR failing that get the front diff head carrier cut and turn a few degrees upwards and rewelded. this would probably be competetive pricing wise then buying double yokes and getting them fitted to the drive shaft.,

getting ya hands on a silvia/180 inlet manifold will help heaps to as the FWD inlet will be facing the fire wall. saves customising the intake etc.

heaps of interesting things for me to think of for sure spinning the diff head sounds good but could be complicated i think haha
was planning on getting a double yoke d shaft and hopeing for a cheap hipinion diff.

she's a big job as i have found out but should be good when its done.

just wait till i have to do wireing