how to adjust turbo
Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:28 pm
to try and get more power on hills how do I adjust the turbo on a 1991 td 2.7
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philip121 wrote: I cant see any adjusting buttons in side on the dash
philip121 wrote:to try and get more power on hills how do I adjust the turbo on a 1991 td 2.7
lilpigzuk wrote:philip121 wrote: I cant see any adjusting buttons in side on the dash
Next to the flux capacitor
Colinl wrote:The local turbo guru reackon running half your normal impellers on the turbo to help spool up time and increase responsiveness. You unbolt the housing and pull off the fins with a pair of snips.
They usually have way too many fins for the area of the turbo so if anything it'll spin faster and make more boost!
Colinl wrote:The local turbo guru reackon running half your normal impellers on the turbo to help spool up time and increase responsiveness. You unbolt the housing and pull off the fins with a pair of snips.
They usually have way too many fins for the area of the turbo so if anything it'll spin faster and make more boost!
Slideways wrote:One easy mod to get more flow through your turbo is to use 3m of garden hose, place one end in front of the turbo intake then run the hose through the firewall. Make sure it reaches the drivers seat headrest. Now when you come up to a hill take a deep breath (cold air is better) then blow into the hose really hard, try not to get dizzy, its a bit of a balancing act but it does work.
These expiriments can go 1 of two ways. AWESOME, or OMFGSOOOBAD. Since fuel injection makes about everything easier, I’ll assume for now that your test vehicle is FI. The quality of computer your vehicke has is what will make or break this project. if it is an older/cheaper vehicle then it will probably have a closed loop immissions control system. this means that the computer will not adjust the amount of injected fuel when under forced induction(because it will measure fuel ammounts based solely off of the throttle possition sensor). thus your air/fuel mix will go EXTREMELY lean. and without the cooling effects of the fuel evaporationg, you will melt your cylinders from the inside out(you will likely experience excellent fuel efficiency until it blows though). If it is a newer car or has a higher performance computer, it will opperate in open-loop mode when it detects the lack of hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream. thus it will deviate GREATLY from the pre-programmed fuel ammounts and “learn” it’s new environment; giving you all the cooling and BOOM that your cylinders need.
I personally have a 6HP Craftsman leaf-blower mounted where my battery used to be(the battery is now 2 batteries and they’re in the trunk). The leaf-blower has an electric-start that is wired into a push-button on my dash. It works SO great. yeah, you go through head gaskets, catalytic converters and piston rings about twice as fast, but the power and torque increase is substantial and cost me about 4 hours of work and 450$
lilpigzuk wrote:Add a leaf Blower, fo reel![]()
http://blogs.howstuffworks.com/2011/04/ ... af-blower/These expiriments can go 1 of two ways. AWESOME, or OMFGSOOOBAD. Since fuel injection makes about everything easier, I’ll assume for now that your test vehicle is FI. The quality of computer your vehicke has is what will make or break this project. if it is an older/cheaper vehicle then it will probably have a closed loop immissions control system. this means that the computer will not adjust the amount of injected fuel when under forced induction(because it will measure fuel ammounts based solely off of the throttle possition sensor). thus your air/fuel mix will go EXTREMELY lean. and without the cooling effects of the fuel evaporationg, you will melt your cylinders from the inside out(you will likely experience excellent fuel efficiency until it blows though). If it is a newer car or has a higher performance computer, it will opperate in open-loop mode when it detects the lack of hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream. thus it will deviate GREATLY from the pre-programmed fuel ammounts and “learn” it’s new environment; giving you all the cooling and BOOM that your cylinders need.
I personally have a 6HP Craftsman leaf-blower mounted where my battery used to be(the battery is now 2 batteries and they’re in the trunk). The leaf-blower has an electric-start that is wired into a push-button on my dash. It works SO great. yeah, you go through head gaskets, catalytic converters and piston rings about twice as fast, but the power and torque increase is substantial and cost me about 4 hours of work and 450$
philip121 wrote:if you did that engine would over heat
I am now running bigger turbo and water enjection
up hill power up temps average
lilpigzuk wrote:philip121 wrote:if you did that engine would over heat
I am now running bigger turbo and water enjection
up hill power up temps average
So you worked through the night and 15ish hours later from asking about dash adjusted turbo you have a bigger turbo and water enjection?
rangimotors wrote:Please post up you math
philip121 wrote:if you did that engine would over heat
I am now running bigger turbo and water enjection
up hill power up temps average
philip121 wrote:no I have all parts to do the job I worked out using math it would run cooler etc
so #### you