Offroad-Express

Yes there is a lot on here about A framing but,

Does any one have experience A framing a vehicle that has brakes on the A framed vehicle (ie like a normal braked trailer)

If so, what were your experiences? Much better than normal A frame towing?

Cheers.

I didnt even know that you could do this...

Questions that pop into my head are. How do you set up the brakes. Seperate calipers on the rear disks? mabey using fiddle brake calipers?

If you are taking off the A frame do you have to re bleed the system each time?

Or do you go all out and install an electric over hydraulic brake controller in the vehicle being towed? No need to have a hydraulic line runnig up the A frame...

Interesting

In my case it's a matter of needing to move my project from one island to the other. I am thinking I will just make up lines and connect the trailer coupling to the front discs.

So yes, it will be a re-bleed when you remove the A frame. But as I only plan to do this once, no biggie.

I help do this years ago when we were driving new cab and chassis trucks all over nz two at a time. there was an over ride coupling on the A frame which operated a ram that pushed on the break pedal. It wasn't perfect but very easy to set up and was a lot better than no breaks on the trailing vehicle.

imho i would be braking the rear.

my thoughts are that as the front wheels start to brake they may want to pull around to full lock, even more so if there is a little bit of imbalance between the two. where as the rear will just follow being its a fixed axle.

good idea all the same

shortylux wrote:In my case it's a matter of needing to move my project from one island to the other. I am thinking I will just make up lines and connect the trailer coupling to the front discs.

So yes, it will be a re-bleed when you remove the A frame. But as I only plan to do this once, no biggie.

Ah ha

So you would just plumb it up to the factory brakes then?

mudlva wrote:imho i would be braking the rear.

my thoughts are that as the front wheels start to brake they may want to pull around to full lock, even more so if there is a little bit of imbalance between the two. where as the rear will just follow being its a fixed axle.

good idea all the same

I am planning to tie the steering wheel. But I hear what you are saying and it is a concern. I would also be concerned that the rears would just lock to easy, as there wont be a lot of weight there, especially under braking. Not sure which bad situation would be worse.

DMcCready wrote:So you would just plumb it up to the factory brakes then?

Indeed. Just the fronts was my plan. Though Mudlva is making me reconsider.

shortylux wrote:

mudlva wrote:imho i would be braking the rear.

my thoughts are that as the front wheels start to brake they may want to pull around to full lock, even more so if there is a little bit of imbalance between the two. where as the rear will just follow being its a fixed axle.

good idea all the same

I am planning to tie the steering wheel. .

DON'T TIE THE STEERING WHEEL it needs to be able to turn or you will crash on the first corner. Also make sure that the A frame is plenty long enough.

Mudde1 wrote:DON'T TIE THE STEERING WHEEL it needs to be able to turn or you will crash on the first corner. Also make sure that the A frame is plenty long enough.

Really? I'm getting mixed info here.

I have a mate who ties his wheel every time.
Have heard stories about wheels catching and little vehicles pushing big vehicles off the road.

Certainly then I would need to put my brakes on the rear wheels if I am leaving the steering wheel free?

Your front wheels need to be able to turn for cornering. if they were locked in a straight line then at the first corner your towed wagon is going to want to head straight ahead as the front wheels can't turn to make the corner.
Definitely brakes on the rear wheels so the front can steer.

If its a one off , just put it on a trailer or on a truck . Probably cheaper than stuffing around and setting it up and the cost of towing it etc .

Chris

look into electric brakes frame should be 1.6 m long (works for me ) NEVER lock the steering and the tow wagon should weigh more than framed one.
curbs and uneven surface at low speed will cause some issues with steering but you learn quick a dolly works way better http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/trailer ... 603201.htm

What about buying a cheap towing dolly or trailer and then sell it afterwards

Iv got a heavy duty dolly i think about 1.9m wide without a turntable iv used to tow a surf, series land rover around Auckland and a fully ladden terrano to Northland and back. My mates have towed a drift car and a suzuki.
The lack of weight compared to a trailer makes the load lighter and the size makes it easier to store. I haven't run in any issues other then it doesnt reverse well loaded but then you get that with an a-frame too.
Im considering selling mine so i can buy a car trailer.

Cheers

If it was me I'd put it on rail.. prolly be the cheapest option and it gets there in due coarse..

All good suggestions.

It is planned to be a one off. I have all the parts I would need to do it except the trailer coupling. So that why im looking into it.

Cost to put it on a truck is about $1300.
Trailer coupling is about $300. Extra costs on ferry and gass about $300 so it's half the price but a lot more hassel.

I hadn't even thought of rail. I will look into it.

Will also look at dollies.

Dude, there is a small truck that runs weekly to Dorkland from Shaketown with boats and spa-pools on it. Often tows two boats on separate trailers. He used to be based in Rangiora, but I see that guy drives for someone else now.
I think it may be a Jeffs Towing truck.
There will be a post on here from years back about this. I and others discussed it.
He was pretty cheap from memory.

Try this outfit.
http://www.captaintransporter.y9.co.nz/