Offroad-Express

Hi guys,

My Safari is in for a certification and one thing it failed on was the brake test. Even though I had bled the brakes and even sanded the pads to remove any glazing it still failed the brake test.

EDIT: the brake test is quite hard on a big 4wd.
100km to 0km within 4.5sec four times in a row (from memory) which is pretty harsh for 2500kg plus.

I have a couple of modified cars with great brake, a good set of pads can make a huge difference but I don't know what is available and what works on a Safari/Patrol. I have Ferodo DS3000 race pads on one car and they are awesome but the price is insane, $350 for the fronts alone and I doubt they would be available for a 4wd.

Can anyone suggest brake pad options that work well?

PS I found that the rear brake proportioning valve will need a bracket to raise it up to work as intended (since it has a suspension lift) but the rear brakes won't be doing much of the braking anyway.

Thanks

Make that bracket up yourself 4" of steel and 4 holes for the bolts... I just paid for one and was disappointed when I got it... given what I paid.

CLUMZ1 wrote:Make that bracket up yourself 4" of steel and 4 holes for the bolts... I just paid for one and was disappointed when I got it... given what I paid.

yeah I found a photo of one and thought exactly that, looks easy to make. Photo even had a ruler next to it

PM Dumbass. She may have an answer for you on brake pads.
(quite knowledgeable despite her username)

Slideways wrote: one thing it failed on was the brake test. Even though I had bled the brakes and even sanded the pads to remove any glazing it still failed the brake test.

Do you know what pads are in it now? And the state of the rotors? If they're worn they have less material for heat soak. Also could be worth checking the vents don't have any mud/dirt blocking them.
I've had (liked the performance of) the ferodo line that repco used to sell. Not sure if they're still available tho? I think I'll be going bendix for my next set. (I don't like the trw ones, they have good pedal feel, but I don't think they slow the vehicle as good as they should).
Can you remove any weight, or get better airflow to the rotors to help with the test? And are the rears getting hot (showing they're doing their bit) during test?

bendix cp are about 40 to 70 per end and we use them to improve brakes on lifted trucks for cert , i would make sure it has good calipers and sliders first though as they are normally near seazed as they are 25 years old !

If all else fails, send your pads to race brakes in auckland and they can custom cut you some sweet new ones, i assume pagids would do something, but as you mentioned there not cheap. nice guys there and helpful so give them a call and should be able to help you

BNT have some ceramic pads I have heard good things about, I've just put some in the rear to try for myself. Good price too.

Race Brakes will build pads for you using your existing plates, we're using their Mintex pads in the front and they're awesome, can lock up 36's no problems, no fading during Taupo 1000 or the short course races. Up around $360 though. Talk to them first, they might have some suggestions.

Brake fluid also makes a difference. Race brakes can help with that as well.

Also make sure the rear brake proportioning valve is set correctly (test and adjust) as the rear brakes still have quite an effect on overall stopping power.

Awesome, thanks for all of the replies. I'm going to make a bracket for the rear proportioning valve and see what sort of difference that makes. Then look at pads.

The rotor vents are clear and rotors looks fine but might skim them anyway.

Don't know what the pads are since they came on it but plenty left on them. They were a bit glazed so I gave them a quick sand on a flat surface.

Have bled the brakes but not a total flush so that might be worth doing too.

Cheers guys, have a few option for pads to look at now.

sinted metallic pads on mine on the front mine passed first go , I'm 75mm higher standard rear valve bracket , and a good mech adjusted the valving stops like when I first got it.













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I run Mintex pads made by Race Brakes in Auckland the same as Warren. I also have slotted rotors and synthetic fluid. The combination works great and when doing brake testing there was basically no fade when doing repeated 200kph to 20kph tests on the beach. That was only with 33's though.
Put that in perspective. This was flat out accelerating, hard braking, a U turn, then flat out acceleration etc. Did this after the pads had been bedded to get some confidence as it was a week before Taupo and hadn't driven the truck.
My truck isn't a GQ but it runs complete GQ drive train and brakes.

I also have a LWB GQ and that is running fairly new rotors with metalic pads and 33's. The difference between them is mind blowing with the GQ's brakes being scary in comparison.

FYI I fitted CP front pads from BNT, only $50 with discount, also full flush of fluid with their 'racing' 300deg C fluid for good measure.

After making a raised bracket for the rear brake proportioning valve and adjusting to a point where the front will lock up before the rear (that was fun ).

Now the brakes are awesome, can lockup 33" muds easy.

Passed certification no problems this time, had a few other things on the list but its done and I'm waiting for the plate.

Cheers for the help guys.

nice one