Offroad-Express

So after getting the new project home and finding the rear brakes have been removed completely, presumably with a disc conversion in mind but who knows, im thinking of setting up some sort of cheap transfer brake setup to at least provide a handbrake and some method of braking the rear. Im thinking trying to find a good complete original setup may not be easy or cheap for an average brake that still fills with mud. And I guess I need one anyway whether I worry about rear discs later or not.
So my idea was to go raid pick a part and find a small slip on style disc and matching caliper, get the disc redrilled to match the driveshaft flange and make a caliper bracket off the original drum backing bolt holes. Plumb this up to a trailer master perhaps with a modified handle to get better leverage, cut the base leg off that the coupling would push on of course.
Should work well in my mind, is a trailer truck so doesn't need the handbrake to hold for huge amounts of time.
Thoughts, ideas, criticisms, additions anyone?
Any input appreciated before I go ahead and waste my time making something that isn't going to be any use

3VILC wrote: So after getting the new project home and finding the rear brakes have been removed completely.....

.....is a trailer truck

for a trailer truck a hydraulic handbrake would be a lot less mucking around than trying to setup and get a cardon disc handbrake working, you could easily set it up as two single brakes and end up with a set of rear fiddle brakes

If you visit lowrangeoffroad.com they have pre-made setups same as what you want, be warned though that site will make you want to spend all your money...

is it a SJ413 or Samurai transfer case we are talking about?

if so just fit a factory SJ drum hand-break to the transfer and be done with it .

By the sound of it you want to install a t/case brake instead of fitting brakes to the rear axle , for the time being . The factory t/case brake is not that flash and is a bit smaller than a rear drum brake . Remember when in 4wd , being a trailer queen I expect it will be most of teh time , a t/case brake is trying to work all wheels ( well the front and rear drive shaft ) so its not going to do much .

Are you having difficulty finding a factory rear drum setup ?

Ive looked at lowrangeoffroad, the wish list grows rapidly haha. Its a 413, I pressure the transfer is from a 413 as it has the bolt holes in the back for the drum backing plate. Basically, I'm wanting to at least get a handbrake working as cheap and easy as possible so I don't have to turn it off in gear every time I want to get out and check out an obsticle. Cheapest I have found a pair of front discs and calipers for is 160, already have the disc hubs on the rear obviously else the wheels would fall off haha. I suppose there's no reason I couldnt use a Suzuki disc and any old callipers from pick a part that fit

Have another look at lowrange off road - they do a cool wee manual line lock for hydraulic brakes... bit of piping and a couple of fittings and you're sorted... foot on the brakes, hit the button and it will hold. Simply press brake pedal again and they unlock

Now see that's why I ask these things on here. I had thought of using an electric line lock solenoid, but had completely overlooked the fact that I could just use one on the brakes it already has haha.
Cheers another idea to look into for a handbrake anyway. I do like the idea of setting g up rear discs to a separate master at a later date. The rear diff is locked so independent fiddles would achieve anything tho braking either side would brake both same as mentioned a transfer brake will brake all 4 in 4wd, hence I was kind of leaning away from the factory drum being useful for anything other than parking

Ah yes I found it now, manual push button one way cheaper. I have the flaring tool and a ton of 3/16th pipe here too left over from when I plumbed my trailer assuming I can find the correct sized flare nuts it should be easy to install

Hem its trying to tell me 41.79 for shipping, surely that can't be right

Cheers I've seen those just thought at us$32 the manual pushbutton would do the job, but at 42 just for shipping the local b&m ones would be a much better option

i inquired about the b&m units a while back and was told that they will only hold for a very short time ie; 60-90s

So no one in nz seems to sell manual line locjd, so do I just plumb a hydraulic handbrake to the front, or so I order one from overseas anyways, it does someone want to make me up a ball valve since I wouldn't have s clue what to order to accept flared brake fittings. Or do I save up and do a rear disc with handbrake? Bearing in mind temporary handbrake and budget are the main considerations.?

Racetech in wellington used to sell a nice manual line lock... been a while since I looked at what they have but it may be worth while asking...

Or...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jam ... -p-74.html

polys are legit. Ive bought a bit of stuff off them. No dramas shipping overseas

3VILC wrote: Or do I save up and do a rear disc with handbrake? Bearing in mind temporary handbrake and budget are the main considerations.?

a set of rotors from bnt, a pair of callipers and hoses from pick a part, a bit of scrap plate to grind up some brackets, a handful of bolts, a bottle of brake fluid and a hydraulic handbrake lever off trademe's hardly something you should have to save up for you'll have to do the rear brakes at some stage you wont be able run around on the front brakes only for long