Offroad-Express

I have a Suzuki Escudo 1.6 G16A and recently done a compression test on it and found all four cylinders were all around the 145 mark take or give one is it worth it to recondition it or should I leave it as it is.

Thanks.

What are you planning to use it for?

Also depends on what nasty things you find when it gets torn down,

for example I'm doing one at the moment found the key way on crank was poked as well as the timing gear which is a common problem so new crank $350, cam and lifters eaten away and cracked head $900 for new head with lifters and cam and $500 for a full rebuild kit. The block and con rods are the only things I'm not replacing.

Would you be doing it yourself if you did recondition it?

If the compressions are all even and it isn't smoking excessively then I wouldn't do anything to it.

I have just replaced the camshaft seal and keyway looked good but last night I was driving it then all of a sudden it just lost power and now the whole thing shakes and when I rev it up it just sounds like the timing has just completely gone I wont have a chance to look at it till wednesday.

I do on average 100k a day as I do deliverers and just as a run around.
I am currently at weltec doing an automotive course and I am able to use the gear there to do it myself

deadduck wrote:I have just replaced the camshaft seal and keyway looked good but last night I was driving it then all of a sudden it just lost power and now the whole thing shakes and when I rev it up it just sounds like the timing has just completely gone I wont have a chance to look at it till wednesday.

That definitely sounds like issues with the timing belt area, if you're lucky the belt may have slipped a tooth. Good thing is these motors are non-interference so if the cambelt jumps off or breaks it won't wreck the valves.

Just a random thought, when you did the compression test did you have wide open throttle while cranking and all plugs removed?

As for the sudden loss of power, could be many things as said above check your timing that's easy enough and the rest of the ignition system. Could also be a loose or damaged vacuum line. Is it the 8 or 16 valve motor?

If its not burning oil I wouldn't worry about it. That won't be causing the current issue either.

Sounds like a dead plug or lead. Pull them out and see if one looks different to the others.

145 psi should be ok for one of those motors I'd doubt they are a high compression engine? Always a good sign when the compressions readings are pretty close together

I had it on wide open throttle but I left the spark plugs in.
In Haynes manual it says 199 is standard and minimum is 170. When I first got the motor it seamed like it had less power than the old one but I just left it and it doesn't like to run on 8-10 degrees timing I have to put it on 12.
It is a 16 valve

Take the plugs out and try the compression test again, pull the EFI fuse as well.

If you have to advance the timing more to get it to run right the timing belt may not be set up correctly? ie marks not lined up.

Redo the compression test if the numbers don't improve you can do a wet compression test ie bit of oil down the plug hole to seal rings, or a leak down to see wether you have a ring issue or valve issue.

Will be interesting to see what the numbers are.

The Timing belt has been done a few times and lined up correctly as I have had to do a water pump replacement crankshaft seal etc one time I had a loss of power as it just has had the dizzy had seized up and wasn't advancing properly so I put a new one on but it still had to be put forward but when I get it home I will redo the compression test and see what I get