Offroad-Express

Hi,

I'm upgrading from a D21 Terrano and thinking about an XJ Cherokee.

Interested in knowing what they are like to own in NZ, being a yank vehicle. Are parts locally available in general, or is it a case of importing from overseas? What's the limit of locally available stuff (i.e. you can get a CV joint, but a cross member is an order away?)

I'm aware of the de-facto SUV/4x4 reputation, but that's often publicised by journalists who ride them when they're all nice and dandy. What are they like when they break down? Easy to work on?

I'd mainly be using it for people transport to the back country, with some light duty 4x4 (they're too long for a hardcore offroad, but that's why you've got Wranglers, right?).

Any feedback would be gratefully appreciated!

Chris

Gidday - There's heaps more people on here that know more about Jeeps than me, but...

I replaced the engine in a family members one a little while back - pretty easy to work on (in and out in a day with only me working on it) and the 4 litre motors are pretty basic, chain driven etc. and are quite reliable. Seems to be plenty of stock parts available for them here.

Also went 4wding with said vehicle, and it went surprisingly well in stock standard form.

I know for a fact that they LOVE to drink gas

My 2 cents.

Jay

there are a lot of different types of jeeps out there, in gereral they aren't knowen for having the strongest running gear if your thinking of running it through its paces out on the tracks or down the river or where ever you go, a lot of people that had the old Cherokees had of problematic ECU and electric problems, when those 4.0 motors are going they seem to have plenty of poke and go like fawk and as above they are designed to be run in countries where gas is 10 cents a gallon the auto trans tend to die when ever anyone mentions the word water, do a google search on whatever model your thinking of mate and see what you come up with, and don't forget as they always say.... its a jeep thing

I loved my old Cherokee & wish now that I had kept it.
Plenty of power, comfy & great off road in standard form with just 30" MUDs fitted.
I hear everyone say how bad they are on fuel, but I didn't think it was too bad (unless giving it arseholes everywhere).
Napier to Rangatekei, all day playing off road, then back to napier on about half a tank. Used more on the way home because we were racing (see deranged & msrfrs for confirmation)
Would need axle upgrades for any serious 4wding, but for general play time and off roading it was great

Never had a more unreliable hungry pos, but I just love it! Wouldn't have anything else. It's a Jeep thing as they say.
Once you go Jeep you won't go back!
Remeber though what JEEP stands for...
Just
Empty's
Every
Pocket

derk wrote:there are a lot of different types of jeeps out there, in gereral they aren't knowen for having the strongest running gear if your thinking of running it through its paces out on the tracks or down the river or where ever you go, a lot of people that had the old Cherokees had of problematic ECU and electric problems, when those 4.0 motors are going they seem to have plenty of poke and go like fawk and as above they are designed to be run in countries where gas is 10 cents a gallon the auto trans tend to die when ever anyone mentions the word water, do a google search on whatever model your thinking of mate and see what you come up with, and don't forget as they always say.... its a jeep thing

Do you own a Jeep, or your comments based on Internet driving a Jeep?

I have a Wrangler (owned for 11 years) and a Grand Cherokee (owned for 7 years). Both are easy to work on and with good routine maintenance go on forever. Fuel economy, well just look at the aerodynamics of it. I get around 12 to 14L / 100kms. Is that bad? Don't care, that's not why I bought Jeeps.

As for electrics on them, I wash the engine area on a routine basis and never had a problem so far. Both of them are on original PCMs (yep, they are called PCMs not ECUs on Jeeps), original transmissions and running gear (mostly). I might be the lucky one out.....

BTW, the auto transmission in XJs is Aisin-Warner AW-4 4-speed unit. Guess who else uses Aisin AW transmissions, Toyota and GM/Suzukis/Volvos.

Now back to the original questions, Jeep parts are easily available locally as well as from Australia and US. Getting them from US is cheaper in some cases, but it depends on what you are after. 4.0l engine is considered built-proof, however, in XJs it is a bit cramped and can run hotter than in other models. There are many XJ users in this forum who would chip in with specific information.

If you are after carrying people mostly, I would suggest having a look at a Grand Cherokee (either 4.0 I6 or 4.7 V8). They have more room inside, but do have more plastic bits outside. Drive them and see what appeals to your needs.

Forgot the most important part, whatever Jeep variant you buy just remember they are addictive.

mongoose007 wrote:Hi,

I'm upgrading from a D21 Terrano and thinking about an XJ Cherokee.

What's the limit of locally available stuff (i.e. you can get a CV joint, but a cross member is an order away?)

Universal Joint. According to Dana, balljoints & open knuckle UJs are a better idea (cheaper) than kingpins and enclosed CV joints

lax2wlg wrote:Universal Joint. According to Dana, balljoints & open knuckle UJs are a better idea (cheaper) than kingpins and enclosed CV joints

I would really appreciate your linking the Dana reference paper where this is stated to your statement.

TJ wrote:I would really appreciate your linking the Dana reference paper where this is stated to your statement.

That doesn't make sense.

But its probably the same paper where they said non-serviceable unitary wheel bearings, split piece front axles and C-clip rear axle shafts were a good idea too.

lax2wlg wrote:

TJ wrote:I would really appreciate your linking the Dana reference paper where this is stated to your statement.

That doesn't make sense.

But its probably the same paper where they said non-serviceable unitary wheel bearings, split piece front axles and C-clip rear axle shafts were a good idea too.

So, in reality this is all in your personal opinion and not based on any testing or manufacturer's statements. Do you think having soft tops on Jeeps are a bad design too because Nissan never really figured out how to make a convertible 4x4?

If you have facts and manufacturer's links to standby your statements, great - link them. Otherwise they are just opinions, and you know what people says about opinions - everyone has one.

You're being too oversensitive. Jeep owners are one of the most partisan groups imaginable and don't like anyone disagreeing with them. The OP is asking for non-biased information about XJ ownership.

In the real world, when 35c C-clip axles break, which they do, they take the whole wheel with them.

In the real world, a fixed flange vacuum operated 4wd system is more upkeep than a simple lever and locking hub system.

In the real world, CV axles deliver power more smoothly than UJ axles, as you learnt the last time you threw your toys: http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 6&start=15

As you know Mr TJ, I have enormous time for the Jeep legacy. I think they are iconic. And yes, Terranos are horseshit, IFS is for pussies, etc, I get all of that too.

Anyway I challenge you to a good old-fashioned 4x4 drive-off, where we push our vehicles and concentration to the limits in a series of challenging obstacles designed to test man and machine. Only one will emerge winner. Will it be Chrysler-Jeep? Will it be Nissan? YOU decide. Mental note:contact infomercial company

I have no issues with c-clip design being weaker, XJs did come with Chrysler 8.25 and a D44 can also be swapped in from a TJ.

Talking about real world? Great, lets take a new factory spec Nissan against a factory spec Wrangler and see who goes farthest. Now don't tell me you like independent front ends as well as they are really smooth to drive.

As for me being over sensitive, well I did say to you in the other thread as well - list facts not opinions. U-joints might not be refined for highway driving at speed, but they do take more abuse at lifted/obscure driveline angles than CVs. Why do lifted CV front ends blow-up more often than u-joints? (In my opinion).

I never throw my toys, I take care of them. Enough of thread highjack.

I had always found sitting inside XJs a bit tight. My recommendation would be for a Grand Cherokee if you are carrying 4 adults or more. Stay away from Limiteds as they can have blend-door issues (if they do, its easy enough to fix though). 4.7l V8 is more fuel efficient than 4.0l I6 and has a good deal more horsepower.

TJ wrote:Do you own a Jeep, or your comments based on Internet driving a Jeep?

Neither mate just offering an opinion based on my experience with eep's should I also challenge you and ask whether you've ever owned a jeep or are your comments based on internet driving eep's

this thread just turned to gold! I'm loving it.

derk wrote:Neither mate just offering an opinion based on my experience with eep's should I also challenge you and ask whether you've ever owned a jeep or are your comments based on internet driving eep's

A very valid question, and I am happy to admit being a Jeepaholic. Yes, I do have Jeeps - we are a Jeep family.

BlakeNZ wrote:this thread just turned to gold! I'm loving it.

TJ wrote:U-joints might not be refined for highway driving at speed, but they do take more abuse at lifted/obscure driveline angles than CVs. Why do lifted CV front ends blow-up more often than u-joints? (In my opinion).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the universal joint setup is used with a solid front axle housing which is only dealing with steering angles.
You are comparing this with an IFS CV setup, which as you state, does see greater operating angles, and therefore a greater risk of blowing one, but only because the joint is subjected to both suspension and steering movement.

A valid strength comparison here would be between the Jeep design and the solid front end from a Cruiser/Safari/older Hilux. Now I'm not having a stab at anyone with this, just saying apples must be compared with apples.

Mehrts wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong, but the universal joint setup is used with a solid front axle housing which is only dealing with steering angles.
You are comparing this with an IFS CV setup, which as you state, does see greater operating angles, and therefore a greater risk of blowing one, but only because the joint is subjected to both suspension and steering movement.

A valid strength comparison here would be between the Jeep design and the solid front end from a Cruiser/Safari/older Hilux. Now I'm not having a stab at anyone with this, just saying apples must be compared with apples.

In newer Jeeps, factory front axles and driveshaft do come with CVs as power delivery is smoother. A lot of owners chose to go back to u-joint set-ups on those in the US. Yes, older CV axles on a beam axle is what I was referring to in the front end application. Driveline angles on the driveshaft when lifted is what I was referring to.

You are comparing this with an IFS CV setup.
A valid strength comparison here would be between the Jeep design and the solid front end from a Cruiser/Safari/older Hilux.

x2 its an irrelevant comparison. The only thing the XJ Quadralink front end and your average Jap IFS front end have in common is the number of moving parts.

Why do lifted CV front ends blow-up more often than u-joints

Going off topic but IMO the main reason is incorrect setup. As a general rule IFS is lighter duty and most of what you read about IFS while web wheeling is based around the GM 1/2 ton setup which is a very cheap, light duty setup known to be 'barely strong enough' in factory form.

Yes, older CV axles on a beam axle is what I was referring to in the front end application. Driveline angles on the driveshaft when lifted is what I was referring to.

You're stalling.

how's this guy going to have CV/UJ issues on anythign anyways?
transporting people to the backcountry and some light 4wd use hardly screams Dana exploding thrashing to me.
I want an XJ and/or a TJ (different kettles of fish entirely I know) just to experience some Jeep ownership.

Cameron wrote:how's this guy going to have CV/UJ issues on anythign anyways?
transporting people to the backcountry and some light 4wd use hardly screams Dana exploding thrashing to me.
I want an XJ and/or a TJ (different kettles of fish entirely I know) just to experience some Jeep ownership.

buy mine .......if she don't try and kill ya the frustration of never ending mods will......
jeeps ya either like em or ya don't ..........me I hate em ......

there's a MINT xj across the road from me that I've never seen move. should hit up the old joker about it.

on the topic of fuel use. I've been tracking my shitty pajero on fuelly.com and it's average fuel use is 12.6L/100km.

xjs on there seem to run around 14L/100k which is bugger all more, really, esp considering my thing's a 3.0v6 and only an SWB.

Like I said on my previous post and someone else has said here. They are like a disease, you can get very passionate about brand Jeep. Already evident from the posts here.
They like all others have faults but what other vehicle will bring a smile to you face every time you get behind the wheel?
Mine does need almost constant attention but I do drive it hard, often off road so it is to be expected. I am not saying I drive mine as hard as Yeti (no offence Yeti) but still quite hard.
There is also a gizillion aftermarket parts out there to customize and modify a Jeep, more than any other brand. If you are into having something different then what else can so easily accomodate?
Personally I have a TJ Wrangler Sahara that is quite extensively modified and I have learnt that once you start you will continue to spend, spend and spend. As they say Jeeps aren't bought they are built!
My wife thinks I love mine more than her, sometimes I wonder

If you are buying for fun, TJ is the way to go as they are very easy to work on and modify. Level of options available to modify with is phenomenal. But if you have to carry people and gear, they are not practical.

For touring and offroading when needed, XJ or WJ/WG would be more appropriate. TJ Unlimited was never exported unfortunately.

We just did a 1,600 kms trip in my wife's WG. Very comfortable and average fuel economy was 12.1l / 100kms and that's a V8 with me giving it over the hills.

Hi,

Never owned a Jeep - I'm suffering with the other sickness, Landrovers.
However I have worked on a few and not been that impressed. The most pissed off I have EVER been while working on cars was trying to change the headlight switch on a Cherokee. Pull out one notch for park and two for heads type. It was IMPOSSIBLE to remove without attacking the dash with a grinder. I kept slicing my hand on this bastard of a sharp edge until I threw my toys and had a proper tantrum!
Another customer had a Grand Chero and she had issues with engine sensors causing random cut outs and suspension drama causing it to wander like a drunk at closing time. I seem to recall she had to buy a complete link at mega $$$ as the bushes were non-replaceable but my memory could be wrong.

On the + side, there are loads of them about. The motors make a nice noise and lots of grunt and there are lots of aftermarket mods and tricks available.

Personally I would look elsewhere. Just my 2c not trying to flame.....

muddymatt1973 wrote:Another customer had a Grand Chero and she had issues with engine sensors causing random cut outs and suspension drama causing it to wander like a drunk at closing time. I seem to recall she had to buy a complete link at mega $$$ as the bushes were non-replaceable but my memory could be wrong.

If it was randomly cutting out when coming to a stop, chances are it was either Cam Position Sensor or Crank Position Sensor that was malfunctioning. Both are about US$28 each to get from US and about an hour to replace (don't ask the local dealer, you will pay 10x the price). Recommendation is to use Mopar sensors only. Easiest way to figure out the problem is to read the OBDII code, PCM will tell you which one is likely to be the problem.

As for control arm bushes, they are all replaceable and cheap to source. They are pressed in.

And not buying a whole manufacturer's products because of sharp edges inside the dash! Brilliant recommendation (at least you didn't suggest to buy a Land Rover instead).

muddymatt1973 wrote:Hi,

Never owned a Jeep - I'm suffering with the other sickness, Landrovers.
However I have worked on a few and not been that impressed. The most pissed off I have EVER been while working on cars was trying to change the headlight switch on a Cherokee. Pull out one notch for park and two for heads type. It was IMPOSSIBLE to remove without attacking the dash with a grinder. I kept slicing my hand on this bastard of a sharp edge until I threw my toys and had a proper tantrum!
Another customer had a Grand Chero and she had issues with engine sensors causing random cut outs and suspension drama causing it to wander like a drunk at closing time. I seem to recall she had to buy a complete link at mega $$$ as the bushes were non-replaceable but my memory could be wrong.

On the + side, there are loads of them about. The motors make a nice noise and lots of grunt and there are lots of aftermarket mods and tricks available.

Personally I would look elsewhere. Just my 2c not trying to flame.....

Wait till u replace the wipers .. A hole lot of hell is gonna rain down on ya ass ... Good luck fella

go jeep i love them