Offroad-Express

Have a 88 swb td42na, 35s, with about 240k km plus another .est.100k(found a speedo switch when installing uhf!!!)
Issue, coming back from ureweras, the long haul up out of murapara ,gauge was hitting 3/4 when normallysits on half, (full throttle for 10min). Does the same up bombays, all lightly loaded. Ive prev removed the aircon rad,but have no cowling due to body lift and have no idea about how good the fan is.rad is reasonably clean of crap on outside
I assume the std radiator should be fine?
Hence how much diff does the fan cowlin make or the actual fan? Viscous?
I do plan to pull rad and get internally cleaned, but i am planning on turbo in future so want tobe sure ive got cooling right.happy to put new bigger rad on but seems pointless if std rad is normalljy ok and issues elsewhere! Ive yet to really work this hard in summer so want to be sure.vehicle is weekend 4wding/hunting only.

The temp on my LWB ranges around like that and I am told that this is what they do. I have never had any issues

Mine never shifted above half off road or pulling a trailer to Wairoa from Napier.

Check if it has a thermostat fitted,If it's missing the coolant can flow too fast through the rad and not have time to cool down.
I would get a cowling fitted, it helps the fan pull air through the rad, rather than from around the rad.
Is it an auto? If so, is the trans cooler integral with the rad, or a separate unit?
If the trans is slipping it will cause excessive oil temperature.
There is a mod for locking the torque converter on a switch. This will help, but check the trans oil.
Is the viscous fan locking up, or has the oil leaked out?

Weemsy

it's close to mine dean , but I would be loaded with camping gear,

My temp would do the same until I put in a new fan hub. Barely climbs over 1/2 now

Mine normally sits around 80deg but will climb to 100deg on long hills when towing but it goes back to 80 quite quick.

The Problem your seeing is more than likely combustion temp or egt related ,
Dont get me wrong if you fit one of our dubai made copper radiators and a new nissan thermostat it will help with the cooling but leaning it out a quarter of a turn on the fuel screw is usually enough to keep things under controll ,
We have Genuine thermostats in stock for $46
tripple core copper radiators for $499 that are made in dubai ,
As yours is non turbo it will only have a twin core radiator ,
Running demineralized water from super cheap with your cooland will usually result in a 5 degree lower running coolant temp also ,
Cheers
Trundle

Also alloy radiators are suitable for scrap metal , they split easily and dissipate heat around 30 percent worse , not to mention all the chinese ones are shit quality ,

Don't be drawn in to spending unnecessary money, TD42's do run at high temps and it's common for the Australian guys to see 90-106deg daily temperatures on their gauges....with no cooling problems.

Mine non aspirated would see the factory gauge just over the first notch and up to half on big hills, when I fitted an after market digital gauge well that 'first notch' was 57deg. With the turbo my daily around town running temp is 60-65deg (little bit above the first notch).

On the open road it's approx half way on the oem gauge and 70-90deg on the digital after market gauge.

You don't need fancy aftermarket radiators and I only have the standard thermostat. Fit the cowling if you can and check your viscous hub, replace the radiator cap and thermostat if in doubt then see where it's at.

Mine has a body lift but no bottom cowling..still has cowling on the sides of the radiator - is yours the same?

Check resistance on the viscous hub with engine switched off, it should turn freely when the engine is cold and 'stiff' to turn when engine hot.

Cheers For replies, its manual gbox so trans is not an issue. New thermostat (s cheap)was fitted a yr ago when I purchased vehicle and did complete filter, oil etc change.No cowling at all, it was broken when I got vehicle and when I did body lift I removed what was left of cowling.
Will pull rad and get it cleaned at rad shop. Fan is solid when cold.....?

is there an easy way of fitting cowling with 40mm body lift?

Will fit some after market gauges to really know whats happening.
I have a similar question re my oil pressure - ie barely off zero at idle when warm, but hits 2 kgcm2 when revs are up.Max is 3.5 when cold. A few searches show me threads that these std gauges are unreliable so will get some real data on whats happening before I get too concerned

Original oil pressure sensor is prone to be poked, I fitted a mechanical gauge, but should have probably just replaced the sender.
Fan is usually a bit stiff when cold, but frees up after a couple turns. Should be stiff when hot

In my experience aftermarket thermostats seldom block the by pass hole properly , i would still fit a genuine one to eliminate that being a problem

Having no cowling does make a big difference to the effectiveness of the fan
Had no cowling on mine and had same issues
Refitted cowling and only time it gets above half is when towing 3m3 of wood up a f#%ken big hill. And it's auto.

ok all good info thanks
1 query - if I fit turbo, is the std 2 core rad enough?
The replies seem to indicate that factory turbos come with larger rad

you can get away with a two core as long as you have your pump timing in check and tune ok but if you want to thrash it relentlessly up hills the more cooling capacity the better !!