Offroad-Express

As the title says above I am in the market for a tidy 24Valve VX Ltd Cruiser in the 1995 - 1997 ish years up to $17000.00 (I have yet to sell my Terrano) so I have decided to set up a new thread for this topic.

I know This will make for tight find but what the heck.

I have some questions though.

Tonight I looked at one that had wet front drivers side carpets. I understand the drain hose for the sunroof causes this, should I look at anything else here in regards this issue?

It also appeared to have a substantial oil leak from the power steering pump area as the steering/panhard? links etc. were caked in old oil/dirt and had fresh (brownish) oil on my fingers when I touched the end of the link? Same colour as the power steering oil reservoir.

Would my 15x8 rims with -19 offset fit these trucks?

On another note, when I started the engine from cold, and had been idle for a week so I was told, there was a lot of very light grey smoke from the exhaust when revving the engine and you could clearly see it on idle. Is this of a great concern?
It sounded nice and quiet when idling all the same and the 710 cap was clean inside.

I will have lots more questions coming soon, so please feel free to offer your sensible advise.

kiwipete wrote:Would my 15x8 rims with -19 offset fit these trucks?

if you give the callipers a tidy up with the grinder you'll get 15 inch rims on it

derk wrote:

kiwipete wrote:Would my 15x8 rims with -19 offset fit these trucks?

if you give the callipers a tidy up with the grinder you'll get 15 inch rims on it

In other words the answer is no they do not fit, would have done thanks. I am not about to take a grinder to any truck I purchase for quite some time.

Hey Mate,

My brother has a 24v Landcruiser. The smoke when cold is quite a comon thing. His can sit on idle and puff it out and it clears once warm.

His one doesn't leak at the sunroof so I can't comment on that.

He hasn't had any issues with leaking power steering so again can't comment on that.

All I know is that he likes his one and the power that it gives is awesome compared to a non turbo safari haha. In saying that off the mark my safari is faster up to around 100kph but hills he obviously drives straightpast me.

Good luck with your search

Ray

Fixed a power steer pump on an 80 not to long ago, around $100 for a seal kit and a few hours to strip down and replace.

Anyone in Whakatane able to look at an 80 series cruiser for me please?

Your deeds will be suitably rewarded.

I also have another one I would like looked at in Cambridge too please.

Can anyone assist?

Hi all cruiser fans.

Can anyone tell me what the NZ New 105/100 Series 4.2 Diesel manual Cruisers are like?

Are there any known major issues I should look for with one?

Pretty sure they had everything ironed out by the time they got to these Pete.
As I said in the first thread you started, I would be looking at the 100 series over the aged looking 80 series. Very similar in the running gear dept, but more refined in the suspension/handling. I believe the basic ones still had beam axle fronts while the more upmarket models had IFS, but I am sure if I am wrong some one on here will jump all over that advice.

I had an 80 series auto, terrible, got a 100 now, auto much better, tows my offroad patrol ok. Not many if any manual 100's around, 105 have solid front axle, some manual, some N/A.

mudtroll wrote:I had an 80 series auto, terrible, got a 100 now, auto much better, tows my offroad patrol ok. Not many if any manual 100's around, 105 have solid front axle, some manual, some N/A.

Love my manual 80 , but Dad has a 100 and its awesome also has very good power, I would buy one. Yeah all the 105s have the 1HZ, manual only and beam axle in them and the 100s have the 1HD-FTE, auto only ans IFS.

Likewise love my 80.
12valve manual 1Hdt.
Great truck, loads of power, handles well.

What a shame it is only the 12valve engine, bummer.

rokhound wrote:Pretty sure they had everything ironed out by the time they got to these Pete.
As I said in the first thread you started, I would be looking at the 100 series over the aged looking 80 series. Very similar in the running gear dept, but more refined in the suspension/handling. I believe the basic ones still had beam axle fronts while the more upmarket models had IFS, but I am sure if I am wrong some one on here will jump all over that advice.

Im looking, im looking

But I do have a nice 80 lined up all the same.

kiwipete wrote:Tonight I looked at one that had wet front drivers side carpets. I understand the drain hose for the sunroof causes this, should I look at anything else here in regards this issue?

It also appeared to have a substantial oil leak from the power steering pump area as the steering/panhard? links etc. were caked in old oil/dirt and had fresh (brownish) oil on my fingers when I touched the end of the link? Same colour as the power steering oil reservoir.

Just check the wet carpet isn't from a hole in the floor/firewall. Water runs down the inside of the fireproof matting on the engine bay side of the firewall and sits on a nice little lip up against the inner guard and eventually rusts through. There are rubber bungs on the bottom of it as well (they're on the drivers and passengers side). If you pull the rubber bungs and rusty water comes out that might be bad . There's an article on replacing the steel on the web somewhere. I've done mine and it was a real prick - had to remove the front inner and outer guards just to get access.

Oil pump could be as simple as the rubber o ring on the return hose underneath. About $2. I've had mine rebuilt recently (along with the steering box) and it still leaks. Guess I did a crap job!.

Read the last part of this guys ad,sounds like it could be a good one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 339640.htm

Lchundy wrote:Read the last part of this guys ad,sounds like it could be a good one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 339640.htm

Noted thanks.

Jerry wrote:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=740364125

Not too keen on something that may have a need for major cash thrown at the front end

I have had an AA report done on a particular truck I am looking at purchasing that has a couple of (minor I hope) issues.

1) Radiator cap and filler neck rust deposits - cap difficult to extract.
How much coolant is used on the 80 series as I think a good flush and replacing of all fluid/coolant and a new cap is in order.

2) Rear disc slightly worn, are these very expensive to have replaced when the time comes?

3) Fuel cap release sticking, hard to open filler cap cover. I think a little lubrication may be in order here.

4) Timing belt due in about 6K. Is this an easyish job to do at home yourself or one that needs doing at a mechanical workshop?

Lastly, how much oil do these engines take when doing a service and what oil should I use?

Hey Kiwipete,

1. They hold around 9 litres of coolant...

2. Best place for rear disc is www.onlineautoparts.com.au - $77.50 AUD for a brand new rear pair - and delivery from them is super quick!

3. Mine was the same, catch inside the rear panel just needed adjusting

4. Timing belt is fairly straight forward, did mine in an hour or so

And engine & oil filter take 10.5 litres - I've always used Shell Rimula Rx4 - good stuff.

Cheers,

Jay

Brake disc's are cheap as Pete, don't let that be a stopper. If you get this one, give me a PM and I'll get you a local price for them (wouldn't expect it be much more that $90 nz for a pair)

rokhound wrote:Brake disc's are cheap as Pete, don't let that be a stopper. If you get this one, give me a PM and I'll get you a local price for them (wouldn't expect it be much more that $90 nz for a pair)

Thanks for the offer, it is appreciated. I will keep you in mind should I go ahead with it.

Just to keep options open, is there any issues with the 100 series IFS trucks at all?

Only looking wider at them as I still want to keep with the 24valve engine.

Are they full time 4wd with only the centre diff lock button?

I'm always asking questions eh?

Lower control arms crack in mild off road conditions, leading to catastrophic failure. This is very common.

Front diff is generally considered a bit small for the vehicle, and very sensitive. Numerous reports of front diff failures in mild offroad conditions with as low as 17,000kms on the clock. Some people are saying this is related to tolerances/factory setup etc.

Here is one of many reports: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/t ... iser/page6

Heres another interesting dialogue: What Toyota doesn't want you to know about the 100-series: http://www.markerink.org/WJM/HTML/100_ifs-cracking.htm

Heres some info from Wikipedia:

The IFS 100-series gained a reputation for front suspension failures in operating conditions where the front suspension was prone to hitting the bump stops.

Both IFS 100 and Live-axle 105 models (and 80 Series) have been reported as suffering from broken front differential centres when driven in harsh conditions. The most common front differential failures in IFS models are reported in vehicles produced between mid-1997 and mid-1999 (i.e. the model years 1998 and 1999), when Toyota fitted the 100 Series IFS with a 2-pinion front differential (the pinion gear would flex away from the ring gear under shock loads). In 1999 (model year 2000) the IFS Landcruiser received a 4-pinion front differential that was more robust — fewer failures were reported.

kiwipete wrote:

Jerry wrote:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=740364125

Not too keen on something that may have a need for major cash thrown at the front end

Yip, These vehicles are known to have sensitive front differentials. The reverse cut high pinion arrangement keeps unsprung weight low, but the tradeoff is a major strength reduction in reverse, and the fact that an 8" unit is probably just a bit too small for a vehicle of this size and weight.

Its also worth considering that because they are full time 4x4, after a couple of hundred thousand km's use, the side bearing preload settings will be all slack, and the pinion crush sleeve won't be doing its job properly either.

So in this particular vehicle, not only will the front gearset will be worn out, but it will need new bearings, seals, get rid of that crush sleeve, and a professional re-setup too. Basically a full front end rebuild. What, another $3-5 grand in a shop? And thats just to get back to square one.

lax2wlg wrote:

kiwipete wrote:

Jerry wrote:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=740364125

Not too keen on something that may have a need for major cash thrown at the front end

Yip, These vehicles are known to have sensitive front differentials. The reverse cut high pinion arrangement keeps unsprung weight low, but the tradeoff is a major strength reduction in reverse, and the fact that an 8" unit is probably just a bit too small for a vehicle of this size and weight.

Its also worth considering that because they are full time 4x4, after a couple of hundred thousand km's use, the side bearing preload settings will be all slack, and the pinion crush sleeve won't be doing its job properly either.

So in this particular vehicle, not only will the front gearset will be worn out, but it will need new bearings, seals, get rid of that crush sleeve, and a professional re-setup too. Basically a full front end rebuild. What, another $3-5 grand in a shop? And thats just to get back to square one.

Best I stick to a pushbike then

kiwipete wrote:Just to keep options open, is there any issues with the 100 series IFS trucks at all?

Only looking wider at them as I still want to keep with the 24valve engine.

Are they full time 4wd with only the centre diff lock button?

I'm always asking questions eh?

If your planning and bush bashing,rock crawling,hitting mud bogs and showing off your front suspension flex get a 80
If your planning and doing some road ks,towing,school run,touring and general off road duties get a 100
I ended up with both and i reckon the 100 has better build quality as the 80,factory intercooler,better brakes and just easier to live with as a daily.As far as ifs trucks go 100series is one of the best imo.some of the imports have rear or front and rear diff locks.Ive taken my 100 on some pretty hard tracks and never broke anything even had people giving me bit of stick for having a shiny(still a landcruiser) and bringing it off road and end up recovering them
I ended up buying a nz new vx with just the center diff lock and rear lsd 7 years latter it still going strong

The 100 is a torsion bar/a-arm IFS such as you would find in a 1985 4Runner.

You could argue that the price is not consistent with the level of technology.

Whereas at the time of its release the 80 was truly revolutionary and you get millions of dollars and hours of R&D poured into creating one of the nicest riding solid axle 4x4s ever made.

Deal all sorted now, thanks to everyone for your input.

No doubt I will have to learn to drive all over again when I pick it up. I have not driven a truck with triple diff locks before