Offroad-Express

So the outer boots need replacing, figured I might do them as I'm replacing the ball joints and bushes too. Is it I prick to disassemble the shaft to be able to fit the new boot?

I've got the shafts out, looks like a bitch

If you pull the CV boot off and slide it back up the axle you should see a snap ring/circlip then the articulation joint should slide off the spline, slid the old boot off, slide the new boot on and reverse procedure.

Not that bad then. All the searching I done suggested to buy whole new complete shafts with boots already attached.. Bugger that

Cheers

Take them into a cv shop, They have a device that stretches the boot and puts it on over the cv without removing it from the shaft

ChurchurDan wrote:Take them into a cv shop, They have a device that stretches the boot and puts it on over the cv without removing it from the shaft

Realy? How does that work? Your trying to push a 20mm diameter over something like 80mm??

Can you get those spilt boots for these? I need to do mine too lol hate the job at the best of times

I just googled it.
There's a clip on YouTube, you slip the boot over a cone with a bit a lube, easy as

Crash bandicoot wrote:If you pull the CV boot off and slide it back up the axle you should see a snap ring/circlip then the articulation joint should slide off the spline, slid the old boot off, slide the new boot on and reverse procedure.

x2 this is the way to do the job properly, with quality new rubber boots and tonnes of new quality grease. You could also ditch the drive flanges and put on some 28-spline automatic freewheeling hubs from a V6 WD21 (cheap - I got a pair from pickapart for $30 as trail spares). Among other benefits, This will stop the boots getting torn up again.

Those stretchy boots are crap. The split piece zip up boots are good for trail repairs but otherwise crap.

IIRC the diesel WD21/caR50 has a tripod type inner joint whereas the V6 WD21 and Mitsu use a beefier double offset inner joint.

Auto hubs dont work on an R50. There is too much friction through the clutch in the transfer case and it turns the front drive shaft enough to engage the hubs.
I know because I tried it on mine and moving about 2 car lengths is sufficient to engage the hubs. Manual hubs apparently work all right but I'm to tight to buy some just to save a bit of wear and tear.
Anyway its the wife's shopping trolley so auto 4x4 is needed as she would object to getting out to engage hubs once a year when she gets stuck in mud at our sons saturday rugby.

Oops I just presumed.

I shouldn't presume. You know what they say, to presume makes a prez out of yume and E.

All good.
I presumed it would work as well. It only took 15 mins per side to change but the rest of the day to figure out why the hell it didnt work.

So I've got the front axles out n cleaned and the outer boots off which are the buggered 1s.
The outer c.vs are the fixed type and the inners are the slip type, the outers seem to be pressed on to a spline on the main shaft, there's no clip.

So am I best to remove the inner side also which I'm picking is the easier side?? And just change all the boots and repack the CVS? Or are these outer cvs able to be punched off with a drift without causing any damage like Google suggests.

Cheers

J_Dub wrote:So I've got the front axles out n cleaned and the outer boots off which are the buggered 1s.
The outer c.vs are the fixed type and the inners are the slip type, the outers seem to be pressed on to a spline on the main shaft, there's no clip.

So am I best to remove the inner side also which I'm picking is the easier side?? And just change all the boots and repack the CVS? Or are these outer cvs able to be punched off with a drift without causing any damage like Google suggests.

Cheers

which ever side is easier for you to remove....dont hit them etc, inner outer = same result.

The more searching I do I think I have decided that hitting it is exactly how u get the non fixed side off. There's s slip ring inside that requires force to overcome it.

However I think I will do the inner cvs too so I'll pull that apart and do the boots from that end

Inners easier, Just slide the inner boot down and pull out the retaining clip which prevents it from over plunging.

Then knock off the dust cap from the inner joint housing and remove the circlip, put the halfshaft in a vice and gently knock off the tripod joint.

I would only ever take an outer joint off the shaft if I was replacing it, they can take a bit of beating to remove and you can deform the inner piece of the cv which will make it bind and blow to bits.
Do like LAX said and pull the inner to pieces wash out the joints repack and fit the new boots.

Yep exactly what I'm going to do. 1 of the inner boots on its way out too so definitely worth just doing the whole lot while they are out.

Cheers guys

All done.
Piece of cake from the inside CV.
Definitely recommend this way only.

And if you need to change 1 may as well change both, good piece of preventative maintenance.