Offroad-Express

heya guys.Im about to replace my tie rod ends on my y60 saf.Do i jack the whole front up or just one side at a time,or can I do it with it on the ground?Sorry for the silly question.Ive search but cant seem to find any info,and the manual doesnt really say much about it.
Thanks
Also,i was sold a right hand thread and a left hand thread,does that sound right? Male type ends.
Cheers

Left and right, yeah, leave the axle on the ground and make sure you have two large hammers to remove the tierod ends

cheers curly,so 2 hammers....incase i break one
Thanks for the quick reply man....

glued wrote:cheers curly,so 2 hammers....incase i break one
Thanks for the quick reply man....

Quick repy??? The joy of being a student and bored in class .
The hammers are just to get the bastards off. Don't forget to measure the length of the tierod as it will chew the shit out of the tyes if you get the length wrong before going in for a wheel alingement

take a measurement from the top centre of the ball joint to the thread as it disappears into the locking nut.

soak taper/ thread in crc or similar

remove the split pin and loosen off the crown nut on the taper thread that goes through the cast hub housing.

place a jack under said nut and jack until all the axle lifts of its blocks and all the wieght is on the taper thread and crown nut.
leaving blocks in place in case jack moves, hit with some force with said hammer around area that the taper thread goes through cast housing.

you will know when it lets go.

remove jacks resting axle on blocks again and loosen the lock nut holding the adjuster in place. count how many turns it winds out as this is how far you will be winding the new one in.

once new one in place double check with the first measurement made.

If you messed it up best go get a wheel alignment.

Wheel alignment on a safari isn't worth paying for. The only adjustable part is toe-in / toe-out. Wheels should be parallel. So with wheels pointing straight ahead, measure the distance between the front of the tyres, and then the rear of the tyres. Measurement should be equal. If not wind the tie-rod until it is. I think a full turn makes a difference of about 8mm on mine with 35in tyres...

muddy wrote:Wheel alignment on a safari isn't worth paying for. The only adjustable part is toe-in / toe-out. Wheels should be parallel. So with wheels pointing straight ahead, measure the distance between the front of the tyres, and then the rear of the tyres. Measurement should be equal. If not wind the tie-rod until it is. I think a full turn makes a difference of about 8mm on mine with 35in tyres...

I was advised best to have slight bit of toe in (if measureing from front and back of 35s 5mm difference)

Quick and easy poor mans way to do alignment is to use a piece of string and make a loop that goes around all 4 tyres, make it tight and position it so that it doesn't touch the body and then adjust the toe in toe out so that the string sits on the side walls of all 4 tyres evenly.

You can buy tie rod spreaders ( like gear/bearing pullers) put it under tension then give it a tap. Or find some 15mm plate, chop a gap in the middle and mill an angle on it.... bash with a 4lb hammer, works if the nut is at the top. And do measure from the back of the nut to a fixed referance point to set the new ones

what a pain in the cock that was.I counted the threads on each side before taking olde rods out of the relay bar,set the new ends at the same thread count,and when I went to put the bar and rods back in the left wheel was out by a fair bit,had me stumped.The string idea sounds a go,its the only option I have as im out the manukau heads and its a 35km drive to get an alignment done. Ive set them to the point where the wheels look straight,but how bad would it be if the left rod has 10-12 exposed threads and the right has 5 (left was 4 threads with old rods and right was 4).As long as both wheels are toed in slightly that will make it easy for the wheel shop to just turn the tie rod bar to get the wheels straight,or will they possibly have to split them and re-adjust before aligning?
Thanks for the replies guys

hey muddy,measure the distance between the front of the tires and what?
Could you clue me up a bit more? The inside edge of my tires has been chewed quite a bit,would that be too much toe out?
Sorry for all the q,s guys.
Thanks

The distance from the inside wall of one tyre to the inside wall of the other. Measurements at front of tyes and rear of tyres should be the same, or slightly less at the front (say 5-10mm difference).

Chewing the inside edges probably means toe-out. Or a bent axle housing - but that would probably only affect one side. Toe-out is the most common problem caused by a slight bend in the tie-rod of it snags on rocks or stumps. It doesn't take much of a bend to make a big difference. I always carry a spare tie-rod as they are pretty exposed and a break or serious bend can ruin your day, although usually able to be semi-straightened by creative use of a winch...

glued wrote:what a pain in the cock that was.I counted the threads on each side before taking olde rods out of the relay bar,set the new ends at the same thread count,and when I went to put the bar and rods back in the left wheel was out by a fair bit,had me stumped.The string idea sounds a go,its the only option I have as im out the manukau heads and its a 35km drive to get an alignment done. Ive set them to the point where the wheels look straight,but how bad would it be if the left rod has 10-12 exposed threads and the right has 5 (left was 4 threads with old rods and right was 4).As long as both wheels are toed in slightly that will make it easy for the wheel shop to just turn the tie rod bar to get the wheels straight,or will they possibly have to split them and re-adjust before aligning?
Thanks for the replies guys

Thats why you measure from the adjuster to the top center of the ball joint...then regardless of brand, or wear/play, or whether the threaded end is longer shorter (depending on brand) it gets back to its original position.

I get you now muddy, logical fit sure. I think I nailed it good enough, steering wheel is straight now ,but as mentioned an alignment is a waste of time,for me anyway,wheel bearings need looking at. I don't get the 95kph shakes but there's play so I'll have a goose at them moro. Thanks a lot u guys got your help,all that's left to do is everything else now.